TourDeForce
Hard-core CEG'er
Sounds like the right ones.
-
Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.
You can register to join the community.
What's with all the stumbling/bucking/hesitation problems lately?
- Thread starter ck42
- Start date
Sounds like the right ones.
I would categorize mine as SEVERE hesitation at tip-in...to the point that if I hold the throttle down and don't let up....the engine will stall. Remember, this is only when the engine is stone cold and ambient temps are ~45F and below.
Fuel pump and filter: Already replaced. No difference in behavior.
Plug wires: Had Magnecores and replaced them with (?). No difference in behavior. So, unless the same issue was occurring with both sets of wires, I'm ruling out wires for right now.
Doesn't have anything to do with fuel tank fuel level.
Changed the plugs from +4's to NEW +4's. No change. Got scolded by everyone and their mother about the +4's and put in the recommended double plat Autolights. Gapped to .054". Recently re-checked the gapping. Still at .054".
The latest theory is that the ECT sensor is either malfunctioning or or the signal is not getting to the ECU. In this case, the ECU is always thinking that the engine is warm and is not enriching the fuel mix when the engine is cold. As I gun the throttle when the engine is cold, the mixture ends up looking extremely lean....but never have had any CEL.
After the engine warms up, the mixture being supplied works.
Just a theory. I've got a new ECT sensor sitting on the bench waiting to be installed to verify this.
TourDeForce
Hard-core CEG'er
Those symptoms sound like a vac leak. Double check those hoses on top of the UIM, and the brake booster vac line for cracks as well as holes. There is also a tube under the UIM just behind the throttle body. A few people have had that come loose, but it's rare.
With 120K miles, you may be in need of some fresh UIM/LIM gaskets. For now you MAY have success if you snug up the UIM bolts. Be CAREFUL, they are threaded into aluminum, so don't get too enthusiastic with 'em.
With 120K miles, you may be in need of some fresh UIM/LIM gaskets. For now you MAY have success if you snug up the UIM bolts. Be CAREFUL, they are threaded into aluminum, so don't get too enthusiastic with 'em.
Last edited:
As I'd mentioned, I very recently did a total UIM/LIM rebuild....including new gaskets EVERYWHERE. Also made sure to torque everything according to spec.
The UIM hose to the booster is also brand new. Other one is original.
I also have that hose that's under the TB that connects to one end of the PVC valve...since I was seeing threads about that hose developing hard to detect holes in the U-bend. Just need to install it but I wanted to wait until AFTER I replaced the ECT sensor first....I want to *KNOW* what's causing this problem for sure. If the sensor doesn't fix it, the hose is next in line.
The UIM hose to the booster is also brand new. Other one is original.
I also have that hose that's under the TB that connects to one end of the PVC valve...since I was seeing threads about that hose developing hard to detect holes in the U-bend. Just need to install it but I wanted to wait until AFTER I replaced the ECT sensor first....I want to *KNOW* what's causing this problem for sure. If the sensor doesn't fix it, the hose is next in line.
I think I might be able to finally mark this as SOLVED!!
Replaced the coil pack (with an Accel unit).
It's been about a week now and the hesitations appear to be exercised!!
The cold engine hesitation still exist though....it's looking more and more like a problem with the ECT sensor. I've got the new one sitting on the bench...just need to find time to install it (before it gets really cold out again
Chris
Replaced the coil pack (with an Accel unit).
It's been about a week now and the hesitations appear to be exercised!!
The cold engine hesitation still exist though....it's looking more and more like a problem with the ECT sensor. I've got the new one sitting on the bench...just need to find time to install it (before it gets really cold out again
Chris
Humidity also can play a factor in this, I had a faulty Coil pack a one point that caused misfires only in humid weather. When it was dry out the car ran perfectly.
idle problems
idle problems
ive been having an idle problem with my contour 2.0, what can i say its a ford. ive spent 1100 replacing parts, because of enging codes, at first there was none, but after replacing parts , there was always a new one, i now found out that the air intake is plastic, and where the idle air control valve sits,( under the egr valve) the idiots countersink a rounded nut which you would tighten the IAC valve into, they should have put this nut on the back of intake, instead of the front, but instead you bolt the IAC valve into the face of this nut, what happened to mine was stumbling at idle when air conditioning is on, and when in drive, with AC on, I took the bolts out of the iac valve and noticed that one of these countersink nuts were hanging just a little bit out, so i tapped it back in, when i put the thing back in, it ran the same only worse. i took it back out and the one one nut came out, its not back together just yet but i am 100% sure that that is my problem, if ford would have put these nuts on the otherside of the hole, people like us wouldnt have to spend so much money fixing the darn problem, they would have a better name, and japan wouldnt be taking over the market.
if you still dont get what i mean because i have a hard time explaining,
crap= IAC+BOLTS+NUTS+INTAKE ( the way ford built contour)
good =IAC+BOLTS+INTAKE+NUTS ( the way ford sholud build contour)
i will post this add so this idle problem that many have will be fixed, IVE CRACKED THIS NUT!!!!
SCAVENGER!!!
idle problems
ive been having an idle problem with my contour 2.0, what can i say its a ford. ive spent 1100 replacing parts, because of enging codes, at first there was none, but after replacing parts , there was always a new one, i now found out that the air intake is plastic, and where the idle air control valve sits,( under the egr valve) the idiots countersink a rounded nut which you would tighten the IAC valve into, they should have put this nut on the back of intake, instead of the front, but instead you bolt the IAC valve into the face of this nut, what happened to mine was stumbling at idle when air conditioning is on, and when in drive, with AC on, I took the bolts out of the iac valve and noticed that one of these countersink nuts were hanging just a little bit out, so i tapped it back in, when i put the thing back in, it ran the same only worse. i took it back out and the one one nut came out, its not back together just yet but i am 100% sure that that is my problem, if ford would have put these nuts on the otherside of the hole, people like us wouldnt have to spend so much money fixing the darn problem, they would have a better name, and japan wouldnt be taking over the market. if you still dont get what i mean because i have a hard time explaining,
crap= IAC+BOLTS+NUTS+INTAKE ( the way ford built contour)
good =IAC+BOLTS+INTAKE+NUTS ( the way ford sholud build contour)
i will post this add so this idle problem that many have will be fixed, IVE CRACKED THIS NUT!!!!
SCAVENGER!!!
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
What is the UIM/LIM?
getsum111
Yes I am a Pirate, 200 years too late.
upper intake manifold / lower intake manifold.
Hobie181983
New CEG'er
Hesitation
Hesitation
I had hesitation and occasional hard starting. Turned out to be one bad fuel injector.
Hesitation
I had hesitation and occasional hard starting. Turned out to be one bad fuel injector.
Hesistation in the high RPM's
Hesistation in the high RPM's
Well in July i purchased a 2000 4 cylinder AT tranny Contour SE with 75000 miles on it. As of right now, it still has 75000 miles on it, due to my being unable to drive until this coming friday. Two issues have come up since i purchased the car. In the high RPM's it just wont go. Unless i crush the pedal, it runs fine, but as soon as 6-7000 rpm comes around it bucks a ridiculous amount. After allowing the car to sit for a little the issue will subside for the first few moments of running, but once it warms up, the same thing happens again.
The second issue deals with the brakes. (sorry if this doesn't belong here.) Right before coming to a full stop, the brake pedal will vibrate and make a whirring noise for 1-2 seconds. It is only at this point when it is almost fully depressed but the car is still slightly moving. I really have no idea where to start diagnosing this because of all the possible components that could be going wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
Hesistation in the high RPM's
Well in July i purchased a 2000 4 cylinder AT tranny Contour SE with 75000 miles on it. As of right now, it still has 75000 miles on it, due to my being unable to drive until this coming friday. Two issues have come up since i purchased the car. In the high RPM's it just wont go. Unless i crush the pedal, it runs fine, but as soon as 6-7000 rpm comes around it bucks a ridiculous amount. After allowing the car to sit for a little the issue will subside for the first few moments of running, but once it warms up, the same thing happens again.
The second issue deals with the brakes. (sorry if this doesn't belong here.) Right before coming to a full stop, the brake pedal will vibrate and make a whirring noise for 1-2 seconds. It is only at this point when it is almost fully depressed but the car is still slightly moving. I really have no idea where to start diagnosing this because of all the possible components that could be going wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
I'm not sure i understand what you mean by ATfluid.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid. The dipstick with the yellow metal holder.
Edit. How to.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...992476&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1
Also note that the ATX has a rev limiter built into it to prevent the rpms from going above 5K rpm or so. This is to prevent the tranny from getting over revved by and burning it out. You may be experiencing that.
Last edited:
TourDeForce
Hard-core CEG'er
Sounds like a fuel pump issue.
If you've got drum brakes, check them. I suspect the brake cylinders may be leaking, but that's not a huge issue if you're not affraid to use tools.
So the guy who i bought the car from ended up having it power washed before selling it and loads of soap and water got into the gas tank. Some dry gas and a bottle of fuel system cleaner did the trick and it runs beautifully now.
As for the brakes, I'll try looking at the rear drums, basically any input would be helpful.
As for the brakes, I'll try looking at the rear drums, basically any input would be helpful.
I had the same problems..revving, bucking, hesitation
I had the same problems..revving, bucking, hesitation
Although my car is a 95 SE, with only 52k-it sat around obviously-I know I will have the classic old car problems! Well, the plugs and wires have been changed-can tell by what brand are in it-well it seemed this happened as soon I ran the tank below 1/4 tank and topped it back off in colder weather-it was the IAC and manifold gaskets...vacuum leak! Its fixed-runs as it did brfore!! Thanks for the info all-u guys were right on it!
I had the same problems..revving, bucking, hesitation
Although my car is a 95 SE, with only 52k-it sat around obviously-I know I will have the classic old car problems! Well, the plugs and wires have been changed-can tell by what brand are in it-well it seemed this happened as soon I ran the tank below 1/4 tank and topped it back off in colder weather-it was the IAC and manifold gaskets...vacuum leak! Its fixed-runs as it did brfore!! Thanks for the info all-u guys were right on it!
larry_s
CEG'er
Hesitation bucking
Hesitation bucking
I replaced the clutch on my 98 SVT over the last few months. I know long process... Well finally the car is all back together and the following are a few symptoms:
Hard to start: I thought perhaps this could be moisture in the gas as it has been in the tank for around 3 months and it has been quite cold lately (around 0degrees) so I added a can of heat. It takes quite a bit of cranking and turning car off/on to turn fuel pump off/on seems to help. Also I have used starting fluid which helped also.
Stumbles while drive above 2500 rpm. The acceleration is decent and then it just falls off when the rpms get around 2.2-2.5K. As soon as I let off the engine perks up again. Is it possible the mass air flow sensor was damaged by the starting fluid? If I hold the throttle fully down the engine will probably stall. As soon as I let up and the engine gets back to 2k rpm or so it runs normal until it gets up over 2.2-2.5k again.
The speedometer does not work.
Radiator fan runs full speed all the time even when engine temp displayed on temp gauge in car is cold.
Hesitation bucking
I replaced the clutch on my 98 SVT over the last few months. I know long process... Well finally the car is all back together and the following are a few symptoms:
Hard to start: I thought perhaps this could be moisture in the gas as it has been in the tank for around 3 months and it has been quite cold lately (around 0degrees) so I added a can of heat. It takes quite a bit of cranking and turning car off/on to turn fuel pump off/on seems to help. Also I have used starting fluid which helped also.
Stumbles while drive above 2500 rpm. The acceleration is decent and then it just falls off when the rpms get around 2.2-2.5K. As soon as I let off the engine perks up again. Is it possible the mass air flow sensor was damaged by the starting fluid? If I hold the throttle fully down the engine will probably stall. As soon as I let up and the engine gets back to 2k rpm or so it runs normal until it gets up over 2.2-2.5k again.
The speedometer does not work.
Radiator fan runs full speed all the time even when engine temp displayed on temp gauge in car is cold.
Larry -- it does sound like you've got a MAF issue. Starting fluid could in fact bugger the MAF wire. It's a long shot, but you could hit the MAF with cleaner designed specifically for that purpose and see if it clears up your problem. Other than that, you may be looking at purchasing a replacement. Use only the Ford part.
Your fan issue is unrelated to the MAF -- I'm inclined to think that your coolant temp sensor is sending bad info to the fans. Normally, when the sensor fails, the fans come on late, not early, but you could have an unusual case here. Rockauto.com has several sensors listed.
The Airtex one is a good buy.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1362259,parttype,2188
larry_s
CEG'er
Larry -- it does sound like you've got a MAF issue. Starting fluid could in fact bugger the MAF wire. It's a long shot, but you could hit the MAF with cleaner designed specifically for that purpose and see if it clears up your problem. Other than that, you may be looking at purchasing a replacement. Use only the Ford part.
Your fan issue is unrelated to the MAF -- I'm inclined to think that your coolant temp sensor is sending bad info to the fans. Normally, when the sensor fails, the fans come on late, not early, but you could have an unusual case here. Rockauto.com has several sensors listed.
The Airtex one is a good buy.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1362259,parttype,2188
Thanks for the info. I'll try the MAF cleaner and then replace. Also that is a good idea for the fan. I suppose I could check this. I could probably measure the fan sensor. I imagine it shorts to ground when the temp is reached so if I check it now it will probably be shorted.
I could order a MAF from Ford but it would be nice to pick one up at the local autozone and be fixed today. they do have a one year warranty. Are the MAFs from the non-Ford part houses known to have premature failure or do they operate differently than the Ford part?