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Deposit eagerly awaiting removal of my bank account :)

So wait is this just for the stock manifolds? I know you had mentioned earlier about doing the stock manifolds, then weapon R, and then MSDS. Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm just not 100% clear on how thats all going to work.
 
RawBurt said:
Deposit eagerly awaiting removal of my bank account :)

So wait is this just for the stock manifolds? I know you had mentioned earlier about doing the stock manifolds, then weapon R, and then MSDS. Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm just not 100% clear on how thats all going to work.
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They all bolt up to the same spot....
 
The ground clearance is not going to be an issue for stock cars and even some lowered ones. I had a 2.5 pipe ran below my car and I am H&R lowered too plus Koni struts. I one of the lowest cars and I hit on hard bumps but my ADC downpipe was ran under the oil pan. So I took Toms' design of running the dowpipe next to the frame which give more room up top. I also went as far as seperating the run with 2 2" pipes to give extra clearances better than Toms' older piping and on the side note Tom's old car had little problems with the larger OD pipe. So I went through the extra work because beleive me the merge into two smaller pipes back to 2.5 was a time consuming fab. plus the cost for bends was higher too. I would recommend a boost guage, pressure and a true wide band.

I am taking the motor out my car tonite and tomorrow. Then I will put in the donated 2.5 liter (thanks Reebs) then I will install the kit. Before I will do this I will take measurements of ground clearances on the stock suspension then I will do mine but I also have 45 series tire too.

I will show pics tonite if I get the MAF adapter built. Later guys
 
burrita [yet another awsome work comment here] can you take ground clearence measurements from fixed points on the car [like the lowest pipe from a point on the oil pan] because I know I am definitely sitting/slammin on the low end of the spectrum.
 
Now i dont have to much knowledge regarding this turbo set up or motors in general..but i am trying to learn!! What should i upgrade in my stock 2000 svt before purchasing the kit. What stage clutch would be the best also. I guess a lot of people don't like the stage 2 set up because of the coating on it?
 
Pressure gauge: boost pressure, will read boost/vacuum while driving. Can read in either PsiA, Psi, or in BAR (14.7PSI[atmospheric pressure] equals one BAR). Simply something to show you how much boost you are running.
 
But Burrita SVT said 3 gauges: boost gauge, pressure gauge and A/F gauge
he said two differents... boost pressure gauge and presure gauge (?)
pressure of what? water, oil, air...?
 
CTC said:
But Burrita SVT said 3 gauges: boost gauge, pressure gauge and A/F gauge
he said two differents... boost pressure gauge and presure gauge (?)
pressure of what? water, oil, air...?
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I'm going to guess oil pressure, because thats the first gauge you should buy for the 2.5 engine with its oiling problems
 
shizapooh said:
so how much for the kit so i know how much to save :crazy:
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$2500 to $2800 for this kit. Price has yet to be set.

$500 for tuning. including software charges and equipment.

Then additional guages maybe $200 for temp,oil etc.

Wideband is around $350 then you need to install it ?? have no idea for install prices maybe $200.

so your looking around 4k for everything to be safe.

Still cheaper than adc's kit of $5,500.00:shocked:

Well that is saying you do the install of the turbo kit your self.

Also a battery relocation kit steeda is offering. $125.
Then you must install that also your self or add cost to that.


I guess i will be investing in this little by little.
 
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I am sorry I missed the word "oil" because of the duratec known problems with oil starvation. But the boost guage I prefer is one that has VAC and boost so in case you have a boost leak you will see your vacuum decrease closer to zero(atmosphere).

Right now guys I see the kit at 2600.00 base kit and that is me squeezing the blood out of a turnip. The kit seems to need more parts than I expected due to the bends and tight spaced the CSVT gives us.

I will give you some accurate measurments to the ground but realize there is not another route possible to give you factory route. I even considered oval pipe but the smaller diameter part still was 2 1/4" tall so my route using the 2" duals is cheaper and better flow than the expensive oval pipes.
 
yeah guys Harry brought up a good point here.

Don't quote me but if you buy the kit the tune will be discounted meaning you can get the package deal for $3000.00 total with tune plus x-cal being $400 of that price.

Then let say you want to buy guages and you are budgeting you can get boost guages for $50 and honestly that would be quite fine since you have factory oil light guage.

You could run your stock clutch till it start slipping then I would swap too a stage 3 around $400 then while I was at that stage put in a quaife or torsen to handle the lauches.

SO all that being said you spent $4000.00 and now you have a safe and reliable 325hp car with tons of torque.
 
325hp with stock 2.5L???
$3000 is a little over price for me. I need to add the shipping price to Spain...
 
No CTC I never gave a price because the parts to do this kit seemed to be adding up more and more I built the design. The kit at first was going to be closer to 3k with xcal2 and tune but it should be sold seperatly since some people rather have SCT chips and some have xcal2 already. We are right now in the process of figuring out how to become a SCT dealer or tuner so we price it down more. Realize that most dealers sell there tune with xcal2 for $500 so alot of the kit's price is there.

If I was to sell the kit with tune for that price I just as well be doing it for free and maybe I can claim donations on my taxes ..........J/J but seriousily hands down you will have a hard time finding a kit I beleive for a V6 motor for the price we are selling it for.

Yes you can get 325hp easily with a 2.5 liter with 8 psi you will net that at the crank. The numbers at 275whp is rated at the wheel so if you add your drivetrain loss you should get 325hp at the flywheel.

I am not saying it will be 3k once I get my distributors give me the final prices I will set it stone the price I really want the kit to sell for 2500.00 and tune 400. Don't get discourage I will do my best
 
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Harrry said:
$2500 to $2800 for this kit. Price has yet to be set.

$500 for tuning. including software charges and equipment.

Then additional guages maybe $200 for temp,oil etc.

Wideband is around $350 then you need to install it ?? have no idea for install prices maybe $200.

so your looking around 4k for everything to be safe.

Still cheaper than adc's kit of $5,500.00:shocked:

Well that is saying you do the install of the turbo kit your self.

Also a battery relocation kit steeda is offering. $125.
Then you must install that also your self or add cost to that.


I guess i will be investing in this little by little.
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It is not as bad as all that. We will have standard tunes worked out to reduce some of the overhead costs, but all turbo kits should be fine tuned.
You will probably be able to buy a basic tune from us at a cheap price but that doesn't include the full tuning service that I give like I am to people right now.

You don't "Need" any new gauges as long as you take your car to the dyno with a wideband and verify that everything is in order. On the other hand, You kind of need those gauges for your own peace of mind and to provide you early warning if something goes wrong.

Honestly, Boost gauge is absolutely worthless UNLESS you are adjusting your own boost controller, and then you only need it to set the boost once. After that it's of no use. If you use the stock provided wastegate pressure and a basic tune then you should be fine.
Same thing with a wideband. It is great to tune things in with but once tuned in you don't need to screw with it. That can be done on a dyno with wideband rather than shelling out more initial cash for one.

You should get an EGT gauge in my opinion, oil pressure is another good one, and Intake air temperature gauge.

EGT and IAT gauge are the two most valuable gauges I've used. This is because when that IAT starts to climb high you've got a problem OR it's just plain hot out and you need to take it easy.
If the EGT gauge is working, you will get used to the temp settings and as soon as something goes wrong on the engine with regard to air/fuel ratio it will show up there first!

So the kit prices we arrive at will provide different levels of options. We will let you know everything you need to make it work well at a minimum, and then we'll recommend all the extra goodies if you wish. :cool:

AS far as the hot-cold piping place. With an air gap of 1" you should minimize most of the heat transfer to the intake. Remember that you can opt to use header wrap which will greatly enhance the spool-up rpm, reduce lag, and decrease underhood temps. Combined with thermotec 2000* coating it will protect things under the hood and provide a barrier against corrosion.
Not only that, you can always send your piping out for ceramic coating which would be an awesome enhancement.
 
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