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Just For Fun, What Else Should To Do If Trans Needs To Be Dropped... Again

M

mixtape

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Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
607
Location
NJ
Hey again guys,

I'm sure everyone read about my dilemma with the trans. Toying with the idea that the trans will have to be dropped again, what are some things you would suggest putting in the car while the trans is out? This is just for planning as I don't have the funds at the moment. Though I just applied for a second job :D. The car we'll be talking about is a 98 CSVT with almost 100k. The only current mods would include an intake, Remus exhaust (compliments of previous owner), and MSDS headers.

First I would probably opt for the Fidanza light weight flywheel. At roughly 7 to 9 pounds, that should make a big difference. Then I'd probably opt for the Quaife or Torsen differential. Not sure which one is better :shrug:. Then lastly I'd consider a clutch, but mine still holds like a charm (tested it when I had to drive 7 miles starting in fifth :nonono::rolleyes:). So maybe a clutch isn't necessary. Plus it's a pricey penny that isn't really necessary at the moment.

Any other suggestions?

I'd probably also have the alternator, PS pump, or something else on the accessory belt looked at too. There's a slight whine (not as bad as my 96 was) coming from the same area. I'd guess the alternator since that was the issue on the 96. Though everything on that belt seems to be working fine. Just a little bit noisy.

I'm honestly thinking about borrowing someone's dolly, strapping the SVT to it, and driving up to Air Cougar to have the job done right! Though then I look at my bank account and wake up :rolleyes::laugh:.
 
In order:
-fix trans $?
-clutch/pp/TOB $220-$240
-torsen/quaife(either is fine, just get the cheapest) $550-$650 + $200 labor
-flywheel
 
Sorry, I'm not so good with abbreviation :blackeye:.
What does pp and TOB stand for?
 
mixtape said:
Thank you :). So is a stock pp and TOB the way to go? Or is there a common aftermarket option? Since this is "just for fun," might as well make it the best of it :cool::rolleyes:.
Click to expand...

Well, since money is an issue, the stock pp and tob will work fine. Unless your tob is making noise.
 
contourspd98 said:
Well, since money is an issue, the stock pp and tob will work fine. Unless your tob is making noise.
Click to expand...

The tob and pp aren't making noise to my knowledge. So when changing a clutch, it's normal to change the tob and pp as well? Sorry for my lack of knowledge; I've never had a clutch go out on me (knock on wood!).
 
Thats what I always do. Even though the pp may seem fine, the springs can lose their ability to hold the disk solidly

I sent my clutch out to get re-lined and had them check the pp. The place said that my pp wasn't holding enough and that it needed to be replaced.
 
mixtape said:
The tob and pp aren't making noise to my knowledge. So when changing a clutch, it's normal to change the tob and pp as well? Sorry for my lack of knowledge; I've never had a clutch go out on me (knock on wood!).
Click to expand...

well I apparently have the highest clutch failure rate on the boards, and I'll say I've never replaced a tob on anything I've owned. if you can find a place to properly surface your pp and you dont want more grip, just get the svt surfaced. fyi, thats the plan for my 3.0 when I drop the mtx for the diff this winter.

clutch net makes awesome clutch disks for the money, never heard a complaint either.. so theres that.

second, there definitely is a quality difference between the quaife and the torsen t2, the quaife has a no hassle lifetime warrenty for pete's sake. but for the financial aspect, get the t2, its 200 dollars cheaper and I havent personally read of a failure, though HMS claimes they've seen a few (few, as in, hardly any)

then, you might want to do something about "the bolt", apparentlly this is someting that takes a dump pretty often. your options are to switch linkage ends and get the focus tower with the roll pin, or have HMS key way the tower you have. either way is ok, focus being cheaper, but still having a slight chance of failure, HMS key mod being bullet proof, and costing likewise.

so there ya go:

Tosen t2

surface clutch components properly

clutch net disk (pick one appropriate for future plans)

fix "the bolt"

in that order....

might wanna talk to pole120 about some polly roll resistors too, since they have to come out to get the tranny loose anyway, believe me, they do wonders for reducing wheel hop, which in turn, does wonders for not ruining your diff.

or you could use that handy dandy search feature and try any of the millions of tuts on the diy polly RR's.
 
u following my same plans when I have to get the trans rebuilt, plus with all the mods u said u want aslo lol!!!
 
SVTalex said:
u following my same plans when I have to get the trans rebuilt, plus with all the mods u said u want aslo lol!!!
Click to expand...

me? pretty much, besides I might not do the focus tower if I'm tight on money, which is basically all the time...

I also need to pick up another svt PP because I traded the one I had plus a new disk to pole for the poly RR I have now and a little cash. used SVT PPs are a dime a dozen though.

I've currently got a surfaced SE PP with an SVT disk, as a precautionary measure to help save the diff. think of it sort of like a fuse... the clutch will slip and wear out, but reduce the shock loads to the lame 99 open diff.
 
KAOS_3.0 said:
me? pretty much, besides I might not do the focus tower if I'm tight on money, which is basically all the time...

I also need to pick up another svt PP because I traded the one I had plus a new disk to pole for the poly RR I have now and a little cash. used SVT PPs are a dime a dozen though.

I've currently got a surfaced SE PP with an SVT disk, as a precautionary measure to help save the diff. think of it sort of like a fuse... the clutch will slip and wear out, but reduce the shock loads to the lame 99 open diff.
Click to expand...


that was towards mixtape ;) but I have no idea what I wanna do maybe buy a used tranny, and get the one I have now rebuild
 
What happened to your trans that you need to fix?

What happened to your trans that you need to fix?

Did you find out what your problem was that caused you to be stuck in 5th? If it was a sheared bolt like others suggested, did you find all of the parts? Or does it need to come out for other reasons?
 
andreslobo said:
Did you find out what your problem was that caused you to be stuck in 5th? If it was a sheared bolt like others suggested, did you find all of the parts? Or does it need to come out for other reasons?
Click to expand...

Not sure yet. Last I heard from the shop owner was that he was having a tech check it out. This was last Thursday so I'll be giving them a call tomorrow to check the progress.

KAOS_3.0 said:
then, you might want to do something about "the bolt", apparentlly this is someting that takes a dump pretty often
Click to expand...

I was talking to my dad last night about the car. I proceeded to tell him the story and how the shift tower bolt broke (or so we suspect this is the issue at the moment). He then mentioned that since this is a common problem, there may be a recall out on the car. I told him that the car is over 10 years old and I'm not sure if they would honor one even if it existed. Though he said that recalls are government issued for safety/reliability and that they should still be valid. Any insight :shrug:?

I'll be bringing my registration or insurance card to a Ford dealer probably tomorrow. If not, well it was worth a shot :rolleyes:.
 
I dont think it was a recall, they just fixed it in newer cars and figured by the time the bolts broke on the contours they would all be out of warranty or something.

also, if recalls are good forever, tell that to every guy that picked up a 95 and had to buy a wiring harness.
 
recalls are not good forever. there was never to my knowledge a recall for the shift tower. however the shift tower was redesigned to eliminate the bolt. however the new towers and the later focus towers can still break and leave you stuck in gear. however with no bolt you don't always have to pull the mtx to get the bolt head/parts out. however you might have to pull it to manually put the mtx in neutral to pull the tower as thats the way its designed to come out.

also recalls and tsbs are two different things. a tsb is just a bulliten. where as a recall normally has to do with a safety matter and I do believe still have time frames.

things like this and the wiring harness wouldn't directly cause a safety problem say like a switch that can cause an engine fire or airbag sensors that are not calibrated right/don't work right if a person isn't heavy enough.
 
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