• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

MIL eliminator pin question

D

Dr. Cross

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 20, 2002
Messages
295
Location
Burlington, VT
I had a MIL eliminator (plug-and-play type from Dallas Mustang) failure recently, and when checking the second one I discovered that only 3 pins have continuity from one side of the eliminator to the other. The 4th pin doesn't seem to be connected. Since my other one failed, I have nothing to compare the "good" one to. Does anybody recall if all 4 pins should be continuous? Anyone have an extra one sitting around that they could check?

Maybe the pin in question is the one connected to the resistor in this pic:

mildiagramra0.png


I need to verify that there is some resistance on that pin....
 
Last edited:
ill try to remember to check mine tonight. but since they are made with a resistor and a capacitor that might explain the readings.
 
Thanks for the link. I saw reference of this technique during my search, but didn't come across any good how-to's. Do our cars have the 18mm size just like the Evos? Just to verify, I would need two packs of the Help products, and I would have to drill out the hole in one anti-fouler per pack, correct?

Have you tried this? Does it work for both down-stream sensors? I need to double check, but it seems like the sensor pointing up toward the headers may be a little tight w/ this fix.
 
Dr. Cross said:
Do our cars have the 18mm size just like the Evos? Yes

Just to verify, I would need two packs of the Help products, and I would have to drill out the hole in one anti-fouler per pack, correct? Yes and Yes

Have you tried this? Does it work for both down-stream sensors? Yes on my SE with 2.5L, codes were on for 2 years and Yes both P0420 and P0430 codes cleared with this fix. Others have recently reported same success on Contours. Haven't heard from a single person where this didn't work.

I need to double check, but it seems like the sensor pointing up toward the headers may be a little tight w/ this fix. With stock exhaust no clearance issues, with aftermarket headers I can't say. But I also think that maybe a single anti-fouler would be enough. This would cut needed clearance in half. When I need to do on my SVT I will try a single plug first.
Click to expand...

I thought about doing a How To but really no reason as the Evo post is spot on and this is such a simple thing to do.
 
Dr. Cross said:
I had a MIL eliminator (plug-and-play type from Dallas Mustang) failure recently, and when checking the second one I discovered that only 3 pins have continuity from one side of the eliminator to the other. The 4th pin doesn't seem to be connected. Since my other one failed, I have nothing to compare the "good" one to. Does anybody recall if all 4 pins should be continuous? Anyone have an extra one sitting around that they could check?

Maybe the pin in question is the one connected to the resistor in this pic:

I need to verify that there is some resistance on that pin....
Click to expand...

Dr. Cross,

You are checking continuity on like colored wires from one side of the eliminator to the other right? (Grey wire on one side of MIL eliminator to grey wire on other side etc). Different colored wires probably won't have continuity to each other in this circuit.

What are you using to check continuity? Remember, the resistor is 1M ohm (1 million) so if you are using the continuity/diode function on a multimeter (usually beeps with continuity) it will likely show the grey wire as having no continuity. The 1M resistor is too much resistance to show up as continuity. A continuity test light probably would not work either; although I am not positive since I only use meters.

For the grey wire --> Use an ohmmeter set to a range that is higher than 1M (or autorange if your meter has that). You should read within 5% of 1M ohm (assuming Dallas used 5% or better resistors).

The black wire and both white wires should read zero ohms (a few tenths of an ohm maybe). Remember, there are two white wires, so if you end up going from one white wire to the other the meter will show the resistance of the O2 heater (which should be fairly low, under 50 ohms I would guess).

If you need clarification or more help dont hesitate to PM me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top