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what else can i do to this thing?

And i just got to my half way point of my 65mm tb conversion kit. Once it's done...i will need a test subject?? before i ship this to the metal shop for a final product.

This will also be used for any 3.0L engine trying to do a 65mm tb upgrade.
 
TRicker said:
because my whole exhaust from teh Y pipe back is 2.5". i dont' need a 3" collector unless i up the size of my exhaust piping. that's not necessary. you'd have to look at my exhaust. not much room for improvement, unless i go true duals
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I've yet to hear a contour with true duals that sounded like anything other then a wet fart.:nonono:
 
Pudmunkie said:
I've yet to hear a contour with true duals that sounded like anything other then a wet fart.:nonono:
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It's expensive to make them sound good, x or h pipe makes it sound better IMO.

A local ceg'er had truduals on his svt, and i still think that is the best sounding exhaust i have heard on a contour
 
TRicker said:
it does hang up in the 1500 rpm range for about three seconds when i let off the gas, then it will drop down to 750 rpm and idle solid as a rock. Air/fuel is good, per my wideband too.
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Mine does that as well. You get used to it.
 
Pudmunkie said:
I've yet to hear a contour with true duals that sounded like anything other then a wet fart.:nonono:
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I think steeda's ghetto exhaust setup...was the only one that screwed your opinion up.

Stazi's exhaust, demonsvt trudual setup sounded great.
 
Harrry said:
And i just got to my half way point of my 65mm tb conversion kit. Once it's done...i will need a test subject?? before i ship this to the metal shop for a final product.

This will also be used for any 3.0L engine trying to do a 65mm tb upgrade.
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when it's done, send me some pics. i'd be interested in seeing how you did it. the remote IAC style works well, but it might be too difficult to do for some. plus you have to make a 90% custom bracket for the cable. its not easy. took me like 6 hours between the IAC, TB, vaccum lines, fitment, and TB bracket/cable. after driving it around though, the rpm drop down as they should. it was kinda holding 1500 rpms for a few seconds before, it seems to have corrected itself.
 
Beans said:
It's expensive to make them sound good, x or h pipe makes it sound better IMO.

A local ceg'er had truduals on his svt, and i still think that is the best sounding exhaust i have heard on a contour
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Who... I am local you know.

Harrry said:
I think steeda's ghetto exhaust setup...was the only one that screwed your opinion up.

Stazi's exhaust, demonsvt trudual setup sounded great.
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If it was only Steedas exhaust that ruined it, I would point out only Steedas. His didnt sound good, Rogers didnt sound good, Changs car had a lot of rasp, Don't think I ever heard Stazi's.

You try to refute me everytime I post it. Since you're such the true dual baller get off your lazy ass and prove me wrong! I'll take you to an albanian coney island of your choice if you can sway me. :laugh:
 
Something I have been kicking around was doing either the true dual set up (100% custom) or having a mock-up of the SHM y-pipe built. If I remember correctly and Greg (IceFury) might know off hand, those y-pipes had a four inch collector. Can't remember the primary tube size on them but they bolted on an average of 20 HP. Whereas the MSDS/Weapon-R bolt on around 12 hp. @ average. I'm no rocket scientist but to me that says the collector Size does matter (and obviously the primaries as well). Some people will chime in and say something to the effect of: "...exhaust pulsing...180* bend...yada yada..." but this isn't a product of NASA. An engine is still an Air pump, and the better you make them breath, the more efficient/more powerful they become. This can be backed up by the guys running the True Duals. There is obviously more area for exhaust expulsion which is WHY they make more power. I only bring this up because I believe the SHM Y-Pipe/Collector idea is a very viable option for you.

Do this: Do a figure for BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) to value an 80% Duty Cycle for a new set of injectors. There are equations out there on the interwebbbbbbs that will tell you how to find certain values, but you must have a target HP in mind. Then go buy:
New Injectors based on correct BSFC (RC engineering can build a set for you reasonably that will fit the injector bosses on your motor.
New Pump (Aeromotive)
New Fuel Pressure Regulator (adjustable...and I recommend Aeromotive)
New air filter set up as you are losing potential running the flat lightning style filter. (not as much surface area as other options)
I also agree with whomever posted the MAF fiasco. You are confusing the :censored::censored::censored::censored: out of the ECU running the 90MM housing with stock Sensor. That thing is probably only valuing about 3.5 volts at WOT. This is one of those times where bigger is not better. (I know you plan on tuning for it eventually, but still. Rednecks who put 950 dominator carbs on there 302's and 305's are :censored::censored::censored::censored:ing stupid. OVERCARBED!!!!!)

These are just some ideas off the top of my head. Stay with the basics and do it right and I guarantee you will find success.
 
Pale Horse said:
Something I have been kicking around was doing either the true dual set up (100% custom) or having a mock-up of the SHM y-pipe built. If I remember correctly and Greg (IceFury) might know off hand, those y-pipes had a four inch collector. Can't remember the primary tube size on them but they bolted on an average of 20 HP. Whereas the MSDS/Weapon-R bolt on around 12 hp. @ average.
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Yes, the collector on the SHM ypipe is 4" inches. I'm certain you recall just how much "fun" it was trying to get the oil pan in and work around the y-pipe! :D
 
Pale Horse said:
New Injectors based on correct BSFC (RC engineering can build a set for you reasonably that will fit the injector bosses on your motor.
Waste of time when Ford has so many injectors that will work
New Pump (Aeromotive)
No point, Walbro or FSVT fuel pump is plenty
New Fuel Pressure Regulator (adjustable...and I recommend Aeromotive)
Piece of junk
New air filter set up as you are losing potential running the flat lightning style filter. (not as much surface area as other options)
Too little surface area? on a filter designed for a supercharge 5.4l engine? If you say so.
I also agree with whomever posted the MAF fiasco. You are confusing the :censored::censored::censored::censored: out of the ECU running the 90MM housing with stock Sensor. That thing is probably only valuing about 3.5 volts at WOT. This is one of those times where bigger is not better.
I agree with this one, although a 90mm MAF will work just fine and give him plenty of overhead.

These are just some ideas off the top of my head. Stay with the basics and do it right and I guarantee you will find success.
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Apparently i have to write something outside the quotes.. so see above in red.


On another note.... 2.5L headers should not equal 3.0L headers. They're right for one and wrong for the other... haven't looked into them enough to know which one is which.
 
judging by how my car runs with the 90mm maf housing, i would say it is fine. i plan on keeping that intake setup and i won't be changing anything except the sensor, when i get a tune. I am going with some bigger injectors and a walbro fuel pump when i get a tuning program. i think i will order the sniper tuning program on wednesday.....


and yes, some sweet SHM headers would be amazing on my car. but..... how many sets are out there? i'll never find some..... so my exhaust will do. only improvement i will be making is a better Y pipe over the Weapon R one. :shrug:
 
TRicker said:
and yes, some sweet SHM headers would be amazing on my car. but..... how many sets are out there? i'll never find some..... so my exhaust will do. only improvement i will be making is a better Y pipe over the Weapon R one. :shrug:
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Have a set made for the car. No need to go looking for them as you wont ever find them. So get with some one on here who owns them and have them give you the dimentions. Y-pipe would be super easy.

Walbro pump is a great pump. A million mullet wearing people cant be wrong right? haha
There are options to go with from ford for injectors as Barge stated above. Still don't think the lightning airfilter is the BEST choice. Why else do the lightning drivers pull them and run different intakes?
Still think a new FPR would be a good idea since we are obvioulsy talking about tunability with the Scout Sniper kit. an adjustable FPR will give you more avenues to go when tuning. my .o2cents
 
Pale Horse said:
Have a set made for the car. No need to go looking for them as you wont ever find them. So get with some one on here who owns them and have them give you the dimentions. Y-pipe would be super easy.

Walbro pump is a great pump. A million mullet wearing people cant be wrong right? haha
There are options to go with from ford for injectors as Barge stated above. Still don't think the lightning airfilter is the BEST choice. Why else do the lightning drivers pull them and run different intakes?
Still think a new FPR would be a good idea since we are obvioulsy talking about tunability with the Scout Sniper kit. an adjustable FPR will give you more avenues to go when tuning. my .o2cents
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the lightning air filter's dimensions (even with the stock paper filter in it like 'im running) flows almost twice as much air as a stock intake, which should be about 40% or more above the airflow its supplying for my little 3L. despite what you all say, its NOT a restriction by any means
 
Pudmunkie said:
You try to refute me everytime I post it. Since you're such the true dual baller get off your lazy ass and prove me wrong! I'll take you to an albanian coney island of your choice if you can sway me. :laugh:
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Once you hear my car....i know for sure, you would love the damn setup! It's just expensive...and to be honest...i don't know what exhaust parts they added to their cars? So i can't comment on why it did or would sound like crap. But i know from tons of setups what casues the crappy rasp and droning sound tha tmost don't like. And most after market exhaust mods with tons of rasp sound like chit to me.

Now the coney island thing is personal....and honestly fugging hilarious...man. Honestly nobody has hit a joke like that at me on here other then stazi. :laugh: fugging halarious!!
 
Harrry said:
Once you hear my car....i know for sure, you would love the damn setup! It's just expensive...and to be honest...i don't know what exhaust parts they added to their cars? So i can't comment on why it did or would sound like crap. But i know from tons of setups what casues the crappy rasp and droning sound tha tmost don't like. And most after market exhaust mods with tons of rasp sound like chit to me.

Now the coney island thing is personal....and honestly fugging hilarious...man. Honestly nobody has hit a joke like that at me on here other then stazi. :laugh: fugging halarious!!
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when that reply came up your car was the first to cross my mind lol
 
requesting pics

requesting pics

got some pics please of this.

TRicker said:
well i just put a 65mm TB back on this thing, made an IAC block off plate, and made a remote IAC.

I tapped the two round holes in the IAC valve with a 3/8" NPT tap. then i threaded in two 3/8" NPT nipples, 2" long. then i slid 3/4" heater hose (the typical black stuff, for your cooling system etc) onto the end of it. got a barbed reducer for the intake end "3/8" and stuck that into an accordian tube for a v8 SHO, which fit my 90mm maf housing and 65mm TB ends almost perfectly. then i ran a 3/8" reducer to the intake side. i had to run a vaccum line for the "vaccum block" (heater, etc) to the passenger side of the intake, where i wasn't using one of the inlets on the UIM. The IAC is zip tied down away from view on two of the stainless brake lines right up against the firewall (should hold the little bit of weight no problem) and the vaccum block is just hanging in the balance (like it always was, but i will extend the small vaccum lines and run everything to the passenger side of the car like the taurus is)

all in all it was a cake walk, but it took forever. i had to modify a 60mm shaft to fit the bigger plate, and modify a 99' 3L throttle bracket to work. i'm a little leary about the strength of the TB bracket because i had to notch it out in a few spots. i might reinforce it a little bit if it tends to sag or anything, but i don't think it will. feels solid right now.

all in all, it looks clean as heck (as it did before). i even got the plastic TB bracket cover back on it, to make it look even more "factory". pics up later.

oh and yeah, it definately helped, and the remote IAC does its job pretty well. it does hang up in the 1500 rpm range for about three seconds when i let off the gas, then it will drop down to 750 rpm and idle solid as a rock. Air/fuel is good, per my wideband too.
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