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Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors For 98 SVT?????

Can't believe I missed this one before.

The only thing that came to mind when reading several posts here was:

Wrong, wrong, wrong, wrongity wrong.
 
Brian,
Write-up that damn info post so we can just point to it.

-Andy
 
And doesnt cross drilling or slotting make brakes warp faster?

"Warp" is the wrong word to use. A high quality rotor with good manufacturing tolerances will come balanced and should wear evenly under normal use. Slotting and drilling (especially drilling) can create hot spots and miniature cracks that can get bigger in a hurry when the rotor is heat cycled.
 
"Warp" is the wrong word to use. A high quality rotor with good manufacturing tolerances will come balanced and should wear evenly under normal use. Slotting and drilling (especially drilling) can create hot spots and miniature cracks that can get bigger in a hurry when the rotor is heat cycled.

actually I guess faster wasnt the word I should have used, or the word I meant per se.

From what I have always heard, cracking isnt the only problem. From what I know of thermodynamics is if you heat something it expands, thats what causes warping. My guess is this especially would be true with a slotted rotor where you have the slots that arent heated directly from the friction. Venting reduces the likelihood of brakes warping, hot spots, and overheating brakes, but it does not completely eliminate it. No, they dont ALWAYS warp, but even good quality brakes under normal use can exhibit cracks or warping. Especially in REALLY cold weather. I am well aware of the cracking problems with slotted or cross drilled rotors.

Like I have said before, the only benifit I ever thought there was to cross drilling or slotting was to aid in offgassing of the pads, but after having talked to Andy and read what Rara had to say, I know that is no longer the case. I cant imagine why someone would think a cross drilled or slotted rotor won't warp. But then again, maybe he should just buy those cross drilled brake lines I linked to in an earlier post.
 
Like I have said before, the only benifit I ever thought there was to cross drilling or slotting was to aid in offgassing of the pads, but after having talked to Andy and read what Rara had to say, I know that is no longer the case. I cant imagine why someone would think a cross drilled or slotted rotor won't warp. But then again, maybe he should just buy those cross drilled brake lines I linked to in an earlier post.

Unless a rotor was designed to be slotted or drilled you're only going to weaken it by cutting into it but the idea that the slots and holes are there to help cool things is just one of the automotive myths that refuses to die just like the idea of a rotor "warping".
 
Unless a rotor was designed to be slotted or drilled you're only going to weaken it by cutting into it but the idea that the slots and holes are there to help cool things is just one of the automotive myths that refuses to die just like the idea of a rotor "warping".

you have obviously never resurfaced a rotor or worked in a shop that does brakes. Rotors do warp. Usually the first pass when you are turning a rotor is an agressive pass to true up the rotor, then you make another pass to smooth the surface.

IDK about rotors being "designed" for slotting and cross drilling. Slotting or cross drilling any rotor weakens them, slotting them wrong, or cross drilling them in the wrong place weakens them more. I have seen some cheap cross-drilled rotors in my day that people would bring in for their hondas that would be drilled right through a fin, or have agressive slotting that look like they were just cut with a straight bit through more than half the depth of the rotor or nearly all the way to the cooling fins. I'd see that and then just LOL. Sometimes an eBay deal that is to good to be true, should just stay fiction.
 
you have obviously never resurfaced a rotor or worked in a shop that does brakes. Rotors do warp. Usually the first pass when you are turning a rotor is an agressive pass to true up the rotor, then you make another pass to smooth the surface.

In fact I have worked in a shop and have put hundreds of rotors on the lathe to get them smoothed out. The thing you're calling warp is actually a normal wear and tear problem because of the rotors runout specs. There was a reason the majority of rotors people brought in to be resurfaced were nice beefy oem rotors and the majority of rotors people brought in for "warping" were chinese made replacement rotors. Make a cheap rotor thats close to spec and the buyer has a much better chance of running into uneven wear problems they'll call warp.
 
In fact I have worked in a shop and have put hundreds of rotors on the lathe to get them smoothed out. The thing you're calling warp is actually a normal wear and tear problem because of the rotors runout specs. There was a reason the majority of rotors people brought in to be resurfaced were nice beefy oem rotors and the majority of rotors people brought in for "warping" were chinese made replacement rotors. Make a cheap rotor thats close to spec and the buyer has a much better chance of running into uneven wear problems they'll call warp.

Most mature reply to being "called out" that I have seen in almost a year!
*thumbs up*
 
In fact I have worked in a shop and have put hundreds of rotors on the lathe to get them smoothed out. The thing you're calling warp is actually a normal wear and tear problem because of the rotors runout specs. There was a reason the majority of rotors people brought in to be resurfaced were nice beefy oem rotors and the majority of rotors people brought in for "warping" were chinese made replacement rotors. Make a cheap rotor thats close to spec and the buyer has a much better chance of running into uneven wear problems they'll call warp.

One other thing to note. On most small cars these days the rotors are considered disposable. In other words, when used fully with a complete set of pads, they will be below specs once turned, OEM and aftermarket.

-Andy
 
A very good point. I would tell people it didnt make all that much sense to turn their rotors for $8 a pop when they could get a new decent ISO spec rotor for $20 while they were getting new pads exchanged for their old ones and I didnt say it because I was trying to upsell people.
 
In fact I have worked in a shop and have put hundreds of rotors on the lathe to get them smoothed out. The thing you're calling warp is actually a normal wear and tear problem because of the rotors runout specs. There was a reason the majority of rotors people brought in to be resurfaced were nice beefy oem rotors and the majority of rotors people brought in for "warping" were chinese made replacement rotors. Make a cheap rotor thats close to spec and the buyer has a much better chance of running into uneven wear problems they'll call warp.

+1000
I even got a chinese rotor once that was "warped" at initial install. Took it back to the shop and they didn't have a replacement so I agree that they could turn it to fix. After trying many resurface passes they couldn't get rotor true and still within mfg thickness spec.
 
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