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HELP! 99 2.5l Won't Start

fedfireguy

New CEG'er
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
14
Location
LaCrosse, WI
99 Contour SE Sport, 5-speed. Went into the grocery store and when I came out the car would not start. Engine turns over fine but will not fire. New fuel pressure regulator, upper/lower intake gaskets, and fuel filter last July. I notice when the key is turned on, the humming just before startup is not there. I always thought that was the fuel pump powering up. Any help appreciated!

Ryan
 
You are right about the fuel pump priming the the fuel rail, should last 1-2 seconds.
Here's my long shot guess what might have happened, someone could have bumped into your car while it was parked which could have caused the fuel pump inerta switch to "open" causing the pump to be inoperable. The switch can be reset by pressing the button located down by the drivers side footwell.
 
Thanks for the input. I checked the shut off switch and the reset button is still pushed in.

Are there any ways to check the relay for proper operation. Would a faulty relay keep the pump from priming the fuel line?

Hoping to find an easy solution before buying a new pump. Local United Auto wants $180 and Ford wants $250 for the pump.

I have a 99 model assembled in Aug 98. Does this still require to cut out the access hole under the rear seat? Haynes manual states it can be removed without any mention of cutting.

Thanks,
Ryan
 
Thanks for the input. I checked the shut off switch and the reset button is still pushed in.

Are there any ways to check the relay for proper operation. Would a faulty relay keep the pump from priming the fuel line?

Hoping to find an easy solution before buying a new pump. Local United Auto wants $180 and Ford wants $250 for the pump.

I have a 99 model assembled in Aug 98. Does this still require to cut out the access hole under the rear seat? Haynes manual states it can be removed without any mention of cutting.

Thanks,
Ryan

Does the CEL light turn on when you turn the key to the run position?

I would test before throwing a pump in. There is a few ways you could do this. One would be a fuel rail pressure test. This will tell you the pump isn't or is turning on, sould be able to find a cheap fuel gauge from a parts store. It will screw on to the valve on the fuel rail. But you are noting no sound of it priming, so sounds like your sure it's not turning on.

A failed relay will stop it from turning on. Also a blown fuse, or no ground switch sent from the pcm, or bad connections anywhere in the circuit. You will have 4 cavities to probe when the fuel pump relay is out. Usally on a computer controlled relay they will have 2 pins show 12+ 1 will show nothing, the last will show ground. The one showing ground is the fuel pump, because the other side of the fuel pump is to ground the meter will pick up the ground threw the winding, unless the pump motor circuit or windings is open.

The testing here is pretty simple. The cavity that shows nothing, probe it (NO TEST LIGHT, unless it's computer safe) if using a meter, hook the red to the positive battery terminal and probe the cavity with the black. Have someone work the key to the run position (not cranking) and note voltage. If it goes 12volts for 2 seconds you know Pcm is sending a ground signal to the relay. If it doesn't it might be sending + voltage. Put the black lead to ground and probe the cavity with the red and repeat test. In this setup you will have 1 cavity 12+ 2 cavitys ground and 1 cavity nothing with key off, the one you just probed.

If the PCM switching ground the pin right across from it (not next to it) is 12+. If the PCM swithcing 12+ then the one across from it is ground.

--- < 12+ at all times
+ or -PCM switch > [ ] < Ground or 12+ at all times
To fuel pump shows ground > ---

ok this diagram isn't working

You can make up a jumper wire and jump the 12+ to the fuel pump cavity to see if the pump turns on. You might have to have someone listen, and then start the car if they hear it come on. if it does then you know Relay or relay circuit is bad.

You can also hit the center of the fuel tank with a rubber malet while some cranks the car. sometimes a bad pump will start up when doing this, and you'll know to replace the pump. Plugged/frozen fuel filter will also stop the pump or even kill it.
 
Thanks for that in-depth input.
I got lucky this time.. it was only the 15amp fuse that was blown.
Car is running fine now.
I am curious now what would have caused the fuse to blow.
Might I have another problem beginning to surface?

Thanks Again for all the Tips!

Ryan
 
Thanks for that in-depth input.
I got lucky this time.. it was only the 15amp fuse that was blown.
Car is running fine now.
I am curious now what would have caused the fuse to blow.
Might I have another problem beginning to surface?

Thanks Again for all the Tips!

Ryan

Could be a harness issue, or the pump is starting to act up and draw too much. I'm pretty sure the pump is the only circuit on the branch. Only true way to get an idea is currant ramp, which will show the waveform of the pump, but this is usally shop equipment. A current meter that can go that high will give some input also. Other issues could be connections or the contacts inside the relay.
 
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