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which IM for 3.0?

Pudmunkie said:
Apperantley you can't follow your own advice and drop it, I've got more experience on these motors than you; one day you'll realize it. You can keep the EGR if you want, but don't tell people its necessary, its not.
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I never said you didn't pud, I was simply sugesting another way to go about things. I like my egr, that my opinion, people should have the most available info, not just one opinion. it's a little extra work to keep the egr, but it also saves a little money as a 5/8 coupler is super cheap, and you dont have to tune the egr out.

Find some SVT injectors, while I was maxing out my SVT injectors due to naturally aspirated Pudmunkie power, you won't be making enough power to need anything more than that.
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man, I'm short on cash, what are the se injectors going to do? if they are pure fail, I'll splice the harness. I'm a dang good soldered, I've done surface mount on old nokias for moses sake.

If you leave the IMRC unplugged your car will run like a dog, if you leave it plugged in but disconnected (on a full swap) you'll still pull once the computer kicks up the timing for the secondaries.
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well thats not good, you think I'll be alright with the junk one I have plugged up? or could I deletet it with my Xcal prior to the tune? I dont have the prp though.

knock sensor's over rated - use your ear. More than a few CDW chassis cars never had them.
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this is something I'm going to disagree with, I'd like something other than my ears telling me my engine is detonating, especially since i have 500 watts of memphis planned for the trunk.

Buy a new 2.5 coil pack.
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will the 3l one simply not work? once again budget.... splicing in the 3l ignition connection seems to be no problem, long as I know whih way the harnes is wired. both systems use 3 signals to fire 6 plugs, so it should work. if not, how do guys run COP?

Are you sure you're ready to do this swap? You're asking quite a few basic questions that should be eliminated in the preliminary research phase.
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uh, yeah, it's like half done already. would have been done already if cash wasn't so short. lost my internet for over a month, and buying parts basically means spending a few days with no food. I bet nobody elses here has gone hungry in the name of HP.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
uh, yeah, it's like half done already. would have been done already if cash wasn't so short. lost my internet for over a month, and buying parts basically means spending a few days with no food. I bet nobody elses here has gone hungry in the name of HP.
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Bean Burrito from Taco Bell. I lived off them in college. $1.39 or whatever they are, and they are huge.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
man, I'm short on cash, what are the se injectors going to do? if they are pure fail, I'll splice the harness. I'm a dang good soldered, I've done surface mount on old nokias for moses sake.

SE injectors will do just barley but it isn't recommended. I ran my 19's up to 300whp (under boost). If you use a 3L upper intake without secondaries the car is going to be a dog down low until the computer advances timing for the imaginary secondaries. Basically you need a tune no matter what with a full 3L. A ported 3L can get away with a tune a little easier.

well thats not good, you think I'll be alright with the junk one I have plugged up? or could I deletet it with my Xcal prior to the tune? I dont have the prp though.

As long as your IMRC still functions you could hook it up to a dummy spring so when it pulls it's pulling on a spring. Then you can avoid the check engine light. When you have it tuned you won't need the IMRC box. Oh, and you can't use your X-cal to turn off your IMRC. You need to go to a SCT shop and have them do it $$$.

this is something I'm going to disagree with, I'd like something other than my ears telling me my engine is detonating, especially since i have 500 watts of memphis planned for the trunk.

If you don't currently have a knock sensor on your 2.5L car then forget adding one to the 3L. I think you can run wiring back to the ECU but you need to figure out which pins are for the knock sensor and you'd need to have the tune changed to incorporate the knock sensor.

will the 3l one simply not work? once again budget.... splicing in the 3l ignition connection seems to be no problem, long as I know whih way the harnes is wired. both systems use 3 signals to fire 6 plugs, so it should work. if not, how do guys run COP?

No idea if the 3L coil pack will work. I don't see why it wouldn't. I'm not sure if it will fit correctly back by the firewall though. The plug wires are different so you need 3L wires then.
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.....
 
Blackcoog said:
SE injectors will do just barley but it isn't recommended. I ran my 19's up to 300whp (under boost). If you use a 3L upper intake without secondaries the car is going to be a dog down low until the computer advances timing for the imaginary secondaries. Basically you need a tune no matter what with a full 3L. A ported 3L can get away with a tune a little easier.
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just barely is ok, for now, what like 90% duty cycle? which ones will I need to get later, svt? I'll search, I know it's been covered like a million times.

As long as your IMRC still functions you could hook it up to a dummy spring so when it pulls it's pulling on a spring. Then you can avoid the check engine light. When you have it tuned you won't need the IMRC box. Oh, and you can't use your X-cal to turn off your IMRC. You need to go to a SCT shop and have them do it $$$.
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I have no clue if it works or not. I thought the idea was to leave it unhooked, so i didn't take care of it. it got pretty wet. I wish i had a garage.

If you don't currently have a knock sensor on your 2.5L car then forget adding one to the 3L. I think you can run wiring back to the ECU but you need to figure out which pins are for the knock sensor and you'd need to have the tune changed to incorporate the knock sensor.
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I believe my 2.5 did, it's been a minute since I labeled and pulled the harness though. I try not to fiddle with the harness much since the are so brittle, I dont need mystery codes that require a new harness. but i agree, if my 2.5 doesn't, no need to get all crazy about it.


No idea if the 3L coil pack will work. I don't see why it wouldn't. I'm not sure if it will fit correctly back by the firewall though. The plug wires are different so you need 3L wires then.
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yeah, my 3l came with a fresh set of bosch wires on it. they look 100 times better than the ones on the 2.5 anyway, and the 3l CP is smaller, and better sealed up. if I had to guess, I'd say they revised it to fix the issues with 2.5 packs getting wet and causing a mis.

guess I will be sharing something new if it does work eh? I'm also having to use the 2.5 IAC since the masterminds at the place I got the engine from took the one off the 3l. I know.....
 
Not sure on the injector question. All I know is that you can run a full 3L on 17lb injectors and the car will run and drive fine. That could be over 100% duty cycle though.
 
eeeeew, das ist kien gut

and what happens with the 3.0 injectors? they are 19lb, right? I just have to solder the correct ends onto my 2.5 harness?
 
The contours in the past have typically needed less injector than most calculators show.

Most well tuned contours run pretty lean at WOT (12.5:1 to 13:1) and the duratec engine seems to be pretty efficient.

However, I wouldn't run a 3L with 17 or 19lb injectors if it was me.
 
what injectors are in my freakin o2 sable? they'll work if I just splice the harness correct? or will I run pig rich because the computer believes it's calculating duty cycle for 17lb'ers?
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
what injectors are in my freakin o2 sable? they'll work if I just splice the harness correct? or will I run pig rich because the computer believes it's calculating duty cycle for 17lb'ers?
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iirc they should be 24# injectors. and since you are going straight 3L you should use those injectors and not split port injectors.

you can splice the connectors and use the stock 3L injectors. I should just run rich because the pcm thinks they are 17# injectors.
 
oh yeah, I had forgot about spray pattern. so yeah, that was what I had thought, splicing the harness is a PITA I didn't think of though. oh well, looks like soldering time.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
agreed, but in order to delete the EGR and not detonate the engine, you'll have to retard ignition timing and add fuel.
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I didn't see this corrected. Deleting the EGR will not cause detonation. The PCM will see the change in the A/F and make the necessary adjustments to fuel and timing.

KAOS_2.5M said:
on the pcv separator, where can I find one for my 02 sable engine?
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If you don't like the air compressor line dryer idea, you can get a much better design from Summit, Jegs, or the like. Of course, they are a tad more pricey.

ST200 said:
Someone used liquid metal (ore something else) to convert a oval port head to 2 singe ports (like 2.5 head). Can you tell me something about that?! Which materials are used ... does it work ... does it unfasten after a longer time?
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That was Mamisano
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=32010

Pudmunkie said:
knock sensor's over rated - use your ear.
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Man, this is one of the worst pieces of advice I've ever heard. You're entitled to your belief, but FWIW to anyone else, I couldn't disagree more.

KAOS_2.5M said:
man, I'm short on cash, what are the se injectors going to do?
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Just to reinforce what was already said, I ran 17lbers in my hybrid for almost a year with no problem.

KAOS_2.5M said:
what injectors are in my freakin o2 sable? they'll work if I just splice the harness correct? or will I run pig rich because the computer believes it's calculating duty cycle for 17lb'ers?
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If you run 02 Sable injectors off of an SE PCM, yes it will run pig-rich, and throw the corresponding codes rather quickly. If you actually drive it that way, there's a good chance you'll ruin your O2's and clog your cats. You'll also be lucky to get 10mpg... much less if you drive it hard.

The easiest way to go about it is to just keep the PCM, injectors & MAFS matched until you get it tuned. So if you're running an SE PCM, use the SE injectors and MAFS.
 
for a bandaid till I can get a tune, anybody know the resistance range of the IAT?

I just need the pcm to think it's around 200 degrees outside, heh
 
ECTIATsensorvalues-2-1.jpg
 
SicSE said:
Man, this is one of the worst pieces of advice I've ever heard. You're entitled to your belief, but FWIW to anyone else, I couldn't disagree more.
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You know many CDW chassis came without a knock sensor right? It's only a matter of paying attention when you get it dialed in and then you should never need to worry about it. Same reason Rara never felt the need to perm. mount his wideband.

You really want to help the guy hack tune his PCM with an IAT resistor?

I'll remain silent on my opinion about your choices in your swap. I mean no disrespect but as it stands I wouldn't follow your mod path.
 
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