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1999 Contour with cracked engine block, whats next?

the water pump it driven by the timing belt...the belt that makes everything run together..in time with eachother, thus "timing" belt...if your pump is locked up 1- it probably jumped time, 2- putting a lot more than normal resistance on the belt, 3- may have broken the belt completely

that's why--remmber tho, this is just a possiblity..don't know enough yet to say with any certainty what it is for sure
 
i had the timing belt replaced by a ford dealer a few years back... a while back as a matter of fact. ill get back to you tmrw around 1 pm est when i try to start the car again and see where the noise is coming from
 
they should probably move this post to the TRoubleshooting forum now... does anyone want to comment on my thought of buying an engine on eBay? especially the link i provided? lol
 
ok i checked into it and looked on my car...and i was wrong.. the pump is NOT driven by the timing belt, but it still can put an undue amount of resistance on the engine.

if i was gonna guess i would say that you need a water pump and head gasket, and head checked to see if it warped, mine didn't tho.

tomorrow try taking the accesory belt off and see if it still makes the noise, if not then the noise is the water pump
 
DJBERN said:
they should probably move this post to the TRoubleshooting forum now... does anyone want to comment on my thought of buying an engine on eBay? especially the link i provided? lol
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i think it would be a lot more trouble than just fix'n your current engine...but mabey not, have to find out what went bad first
 
so here's the scenario
IMG00466.jpg

the red circle is where the sound seems to be coming from... that side of the engine. the blue circle is a lot of exterior oil that wasnt there before the engine died

IMG00467.jpg

this belt is rusted.... probably from sitting? but when the key is turned, this belt moves slowly

IMG00468.jpg

more oil? on the hood

IMG00469.jpg

close-up of the excess oil

i dont have any tools with me to do any further examining. if i dont decide to get it examined by a mechanic, i might just put this vehicle in the classifieds on this board. $500 is cool with me, and I'm looking at getting a Van anywho. :'(

AND i have a half-tank of gas in there lol didnt remember that
 
Hmm that is a weird place to have a lot of oil (it's even on the airbox...that crap is being flung around...). The first thing I would check is the timing belt. Just two 8mm bolts (two on my non-VCT, but I think there's just two on the VCT's as well) hold in the timing belt cover on the far passenger side of the valve cover. If that still looks good I'd take off the wheel and splash shield to get in there (the crankshaft bolt) and try and turn the engine over by hand...
 
I'll have to examine it more on Sunday. Working 45+ hours and going to school full time is killing me.

More than likely though, if I can't determine the problem on my own, I'm going to just sell it. $500 isn't bad, and combine it with the money I was going to use to fix it, it'll be a good down payment on a car. I'll post again when I have time to check the car out
 
...and if you do decide to replace the engine than i wouldn't go with that one because it has 98k miles on it. i got my 3.0L with 42K and paided only 150 for it... but then again i shopped around.
 
96RedSE5Sp said:
I put about 30,000 miles on my '86 Plymouth Reliant AFTER the radiator disintegrated. The trick is to always put the heat on full blast - sucks when its 95 degrees out but you do what you have to do.
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I put the final 60 miles of a 450 mile trip in my '76 Mini with a head gasket that had gone between two cylinders. Ran as rough as a mangy dog, and we did have to make a couple of stops to put water in (only had ice cold bottled from the cooler we were carrying), but it got us there.

Spent part of the following day slapping a new head gasket in. But since it was a weekend and we were in a strange town, I didn't bother to check beyond a visual as to whether the mating surfaces were now bad or not. Drove the 450 miles back without incident and the car is still running on that same head gasket 3 years later.

Lucky, stupid, or testament to how bulletproof those little Mini engines are. I'll let you decide. :eek:
 
LocoLobo said:
...and if you do decide to replace the engine than i wouldn't go with that one because it has 98k miles on it. i got my 3.0L with 42K and paided only 150 for it... but then again i shopped around.
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Yes but you need wiring from a Duratec so that is NOT WORTH IT. It isn't worth it to swap from Zetec to 3.0L. :nonono:

OP make sure to check that timing belt...
 
DJBERN said:
thats what I did. It was 5 degrees all winter in Ohio, and as long as the heat was on full blast and i had the windows all the way down, things were fine.

I should've just got the radiator fixed, but seeing as I didn't have a JOB at the time, nor did i have the money (either mine or borrowed) to get it fixed, I had to do what I had to do. Mistake on my part, but life goes on....

if I can get a FREE INSPECTION that would be sweet, but I doubt it lol

If I could get $500 for the car, I wouldn't have ANY problem with that because I'm looking at buying a van since I have to haul DJ equipment everywhere... any takers on here? PM me, I don't want to turn this into a classified post.

Anyways, how much would an inspection cost me on average? What kind of inspections can I do on my own? I know you guys can't give me an exact price, but give me an estimate because I'd hate to have to get it towed to a repair shop for them to inspect it and tell me what I assume already.

Thanks for the responses
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you could probably sell the car to reebs, he would put a new motor in it and sell it again.
 
That's probably what I'll do, as my current employment (Disc Jockey) would be a lot easier with a Van... but I'm still going to look into getting it fixed, as far as price and stuff goes.
 
Well, I haven't had the time to do any further inspection of the engine....

However, I spoke to a girl that had her 99 Mystique motor swapped at a place called Motor Rebuilders & Parts in Toledo OH. She said she paid $600 for the engine, and $700 for the install. The engine had 28k miles on it. I guess her timing belt broke and all hell broke loose under the hood. anyone familiar with this place?

I'm not going to have that kind of money until May 9th or so, so if anyone has any info on that place, let me know. I'm also going to post this in the EGL section
 
Did you even check the timing belt?

...it is possible the Ford dealer didn't replace your pulleys, although I would think they would just so they could make more money.
 
Well I've decided to get myself into another car and just sell this one, using the money for down payment. I'm going to list it in the classifieds for $500 when I get a chance to take pictures of it. Thanks to every one for their information and support.
 
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