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Stuck wheel--rusted to hub?

B

bcubed

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Messages
32
First, let me say I've searched for this w/o success, though I imagine it's been dealt w/ before.

While installing new ball joints, the right wheel wouldn't seperate from the vehicle. I rocked it until I was worried it'd fall off the jackstand, then I tried prying the wheel away from the brake disc, using the lug wrench: no joy.

Now I'm thinking I should get some kind of puller, but with a much wider than normal span of roughly 9" or so. Any ideas?

(Incidentally, the left side came off w/o incident.)
 
Beat it with a BFH. I usually just kick with my feet.

Use anti-seize next time.
 
PB Blaster where you can (lug nut holes and such). Hit the tire sidewall with a big hammer while turning it to set up vibrations. If it's a steel wheel, you can use a propane torch to heat it around the contact points. That usually does it (obvious cautions apply!).

It will pop loose eventually. Good luck pulling the rotor someday.
 
You could also put the lug nuts back on just not tight and lower the car back on the ground. Then drive it slowly turning the wheel back and forth. A last resort but it works.
 
Actually, This happened to a friends contour before and I think Tony brought this up to me and it worked perfect.....

I tried PB Blaster and it didnt work.... I soaked it overnight and it didnt work....

but after soaking it overnight I drove the car with 2 lugnuts removed and the others loosened a good bit(almost completely).

Then I drove the car a block. And they still didnt want to come off!!!!!! Then I did a turn opposite of the wheel w. the problem (example: left wheel-right turn). Pretty fast and that worked voila!!!! Then we painted his calipers.... LOL

- amyn
 
JEDsContour said:
It will pop loose eventually. Good luck pulling the rotor someday.
Click to expand...

I was going to say, I had that issue with my rotor being rusted on when I first got my mystique. Ended up using a sledge hammer to tap it lightly around the edges and it eventually worked its way off. I say go with JEDsContour's advice of hitting the sidewall.
 
happens to me also....i live in Ontario where there is salt on roads during winter.

When I do brakes now, I take off the wheel 2 days in advance and spray wd-40 or liquid wrench between the rotor and hob. You need to reach around to make sure that it gets between the rotor and hub. After that is easier to remove. I also use antiseize on the rotor and hob after replacement but the problem still occurs. There is a ring of rust that forms on the rotor which pretty much bonds the rotor and hub together. I am now thinking that the antiseize may make it worse by trapping moisture and encouraging rust.

when I don't need the rotors anymore, I also use a hand sledge to remove the rotor.

I think we should be removing the rotors quarterly and brushing out the rust.
 
stickyjazz said:
happens to me also....i live in Ontario where there is salt on roads during winter.

When I do brakes now, I take off the wheel 2 days in advance and spray wd-40 or liquid wrench between the rotor and hob. You need to reach around to make sure that it gets between the rotor and hub. After that is easier to remove. I also use antiseize on the rotor and hob after replacement but the problem still occurs. There is a ring of rust that forms on the rotor which pretty much bonds the rotor and hub together. I am now thinking that the antiseize may make it worse by trapping moisture and encouraging rust.

when I don't need the rotors anymore, I also use a hand sledge to remove the rotor.

I think we should be removing the rotors quarterly and brushing out the rust.
Click to expand...
What an awful environment! Sounds worse than the rust belt (Northern Ohio) where I grew up. Cars deteriorate so rapidly when sprayed with icy salty slush and gravel. That's why I never buy a northern used car - even now.
 
stick a big ass pry bar between the caliper and the wheel. this will work. even when uv drop kicked the tire using your whole body weight numerous times iv never had a wheel not come off with the 4 foot pry bar method.
 
Big Jim said:
Do this at your own risk. Loosen, but don't remove, the lug nuts. Drive around the block. Drive very carefully.
Click to expand...

I was never a fan of this method.


I would do what's been suggested, shoot some PB Blaster, or something similar, into the lug holes, let it sit a bit, then just kick the crap out of it. I try to kick facing away from the car, this way you can use your whole foot on it. I kick at the 3 and 9 o' clock positions to try and wiggle it.
 
qbcsvt said:
Actually, This happened to a friends contour before and I think Tony brought this up to me and it worked perfect.....

I tried PB Blaster and it didnt work.... I soaked it overnight and it didnt work....

but after soaking it overnight I drove the car with 2 lugnuts removed and the others loosened a good bit(almost completely).

Then I drove the car a block. And they still didnt want to come off!!!!!! Then I did a turn opposite of the wheel w. the problem (example: left wheel-right turn). Pretty fast and that worked voila!!!! Then we painted his calipers.... LOL

- amyn
Click to expand...

I think amyn is talking about my SVT, till this day the same wheel which is the right one still didnt come off yet. I tried it with the left wheel worked perfect fine ... i just gave upon the right wheel because i was in a rush, and i never got the chance 2 do it again.

but you should try the PB Blaster and the driving 2 lug method. then hopefully that works.
 
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