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Engine needs to be replaced. Its making a loud rattaling noise.!?

Well, its coming Directly from the engine and to me it sounds as if someone droped a bolt in the engine and its rattaling around. When I droped it off at a shop the mecanic called me back and said he stared it and imedietly shut it off. "It sounds like its getting worse, as if its self destructing." They towed it to a different shop and they told me that it was the rod bearing.


Have you checked the plugs? My engine was making a similar noise and we replaced the plugs and it went away. The Bosch plugs I had were too cold for the engine.
 
Have you checked the plugs? My engine was making a similar noise and we replaced the plugs and it went away. The Bosch plugs I had were too cold for the engine.
The only thing cold plugs will do is encourage fouling. A "rattling" noise attributed to spark plugs (pinging) would be blamed on timing too advanced, fuel octane too low or plug heat range too high. The only other way a spark plug could cause a true rattle would be if the tip of one fell off and was bouncing around in the combustion chamber. I doubt the engine would run very long if that were the case.
Karl
 
Mine was rattling and it went away after we changed them.

Maybe it was unrelated and somehow, the rattling went away around the same time. Who knows.
 
Mine was rattling and it went away after we changed them.

Maybe it was unrelated and somehow, the rattling went away around the same time. Who knows.

Yours could be an engine "knock" due to poor SP condition.
 
Well, its coming Directly from the engine and to me it sounds as if someone droped a bolt in the engine and its rattaling around. When I droped it off at a shop the mecanic called me back and said he stared it and imedietly shut it off. "It sounds like its getting worse, as if its self destructing." They towed it to a different shop and they told me that it was the rod bearing.



well guys update, i took the car to fords for them to hear it, the stupid mechanic said "piston slap" the engine needs replacing, his boss was out there and i think they either 1 wanted to get rid of me or 2 they couldnt be bothered to know about my issue with the car, now the car started to make the rattling noise even on idle, got to work and it turned off on me at the junction near my work, i tried to turn it on and it was making a really bad noise like a clacking noise and died again, i knew there and then connecting rod bearing, so i pushed the car by myself up a little steep to the car park at work, (god damb my car weighs a ton) had to stop at the entrance to work as my wrist was hurting, no ****er helping me push either, managed to get it into the car park and called the recovery company im with to come pick me up and tow me home

he came after work right on time like they said, he said ill try to fix it here and then and i said its not gonna be fixable here as i know its the connecting rod bearing thats turning in the engine causing the horrible clatter in there, he turned it on for a couple of seconds, turned it off and said "this aint goin anywhere" so he got my car onto the wheel lifts which im lucky as my body kit and the lowered car is really low to the ground and he towed me home slowely,


guys heres where i need the help/advice, i wanna replace the bearing on that first cylinder as it was comming from cylinder 1 which as u know is on the passanger side on the contour, or on yur left hand side if yur standing in front of yur car looking towards the engine, well if i replace the bearing, will the noise stop? Or do u think the crankshaft is damaged and wont make a difference, ive got 12 very good bearings from an engine that im doin over right now but ive brought new bearings for that one so id use the other used but good condition bearings on this one to see if it will do the job, as said do u think it will solve the problem, in theory it should do as its the bearing thats come off its seat on the cap and is clattering in there, but will this be enough to damage the crankshaft u think?



also how hard is it to remove the oil pan, am i right saying u need to drain the oil first, then remove the "Y" pipe and then remove the 15 bolts holding the sump, then undo the baffles and pick up tube and then turning the crankshaft until i can see the first cap which will be near the passanger side of the car and then replace the bearing with one of mine and make sure its on there straight and take the damaged bearing off from the cap off the first one, then replace procedures and then refill with oil and see if the noise is gone?

I need this car working as its my drive to work which is 20 miles away and its gonna get to the winter seasons so really want my car back on the road and the other engine im still waiting for the bits to come in to complete it,


any info appreciated guys thanks sorry for the long post :blackeye:
 
4 got to say took off the belt and it still did the rattle, only difference was my battery light was on but replaced the belt and light goes out, but as said above its deff the connecting rod bearing, any info apprecited thanks
 
If it's been thrashing around inside there might not be much left to the rod or the crankshaft. You could try just the bearing but I'm not sure how long it will last if the crank surface is galled.
 
when u say "galled" what does that mean? Does that mean like scraped or groved on the metal? I turned off the car as soon as i heard it and also the recovery man had it on for like a couple of seconds and turned it off and said to me "its not goin anywhere" but man it sounded ugly buddy, like if u can imagine u getting a fork and a tomato tin and tapping it inside in a circular motion really baddly, im hoping my partners dad will tell his friends next door if i can borrow their pit and garage so that i can get to the bearing, what should i look for on the crankshaft when i take off the connecting rod cap? Would it have put marks on the crankshaft where it was rattling? Im hoping not, any info appreciated thanks.
 
The problem is, when a bearing spins, the rest of the engine gets starved for oil. Bearing shells have holes in them where the oil comes out, and if the bearing isnt lined up and locked in with the tabs, there's no lubrication there or anywhere down the line. You'll likely replace that bearing and soon be replacing the whole engine anyway.
 
galled - large metal on metal scrapes on the surface of the crank. It won't be good for lubrication.

The surfaces are micro polished where the bearings ride on them so there is even distribution of oil across the surface. At least that's the way I understand it.
 
thanks for the info guys, it sounds ugly though, im hopin im gonna get a chance to do the job this monday comming up in my neighbors pit, i really need this car doin, im gonna replace the engine with an uprated one that im doin up but this isnt the point i need my car for the winter weathers, my uprated oil pan is on the way from canada and is beleived to be in the country, what if i used an oil additive to help lubricate the whole system like they all say they do, which ones are the best ones? Any info appreciated thanks guys :)
 
well guys took off the old bearings, it wasnt too bad of a job to do, the only thing is i broke one of the bolts that holds up the flange on the y piece to the rear manifold and its blowing from there, well it was just a case of taking off the y piece, taking off a couple of shields, the sump, baffles, oil pick up tube and taking off the caps and i got to both of the bearings, i only did that one as i knew the noise was comming from there, to get to the top ones, i pushed up the connecting rod and piston a bit and u can hear a bit of compression and then the bearings were around the crankshaft when i took them off they fell to the ground, picked them up they looked really bad, i replaced them with new ones, and put everything back toghether, i started up the car and it stopped making the clattering sound but now i have the blow on the manifold so im gonna have to see about getting that bolt undone and then replacing it, im not running it hard im gonna start it everyday and let it idle and see what happens, do u think it will be ok, ive checked and toped up the oil well i did the oil/filter change so its got fresh oil and filter on there, as said do u think it will be ok now, any info appreciated thanks :)
 
Wow, interesting repair. I'll have to try that next time (hopefully never).

How did the crank look when you removed the bearings? Did you replace all 6 while you had it apart?
 
Wow, interesting repair. I'll have to try that next time (hopefully never).

How did the crank look when you removed the bearings? Did you replace all 6 while you had it apart?



the crank looked alright, no marks, pits nothing that i can see from it, as said it wasnt a hard job to do, i didnt do all 6 which would require 12 bearings, because the noise was only commin from the first cylinder and i knew i was gonna find something like that, this sunday im gonna take the car to the pit again, im using my bike in the meantime and i will drill out the bolt and replace with a new bolt then i will put some exhaust paste on there to stop some of the blowing from the exhaust and see if i can hear a noise there again, if it starts knocking again does that mean that the bearing is gonna spin again? And if so does that mean ive gotta do the bearing again? Its not a hard job to do, and now that ive gotten the bolts off the y piece pipe off they wont be too bad to take off so i should save some time there, one of my neighbors had a listen to it with a long screw driver and he said that sounds perfect, but i still dont know until i stop the blowing, i drove it home at 1k revs which is really low to stop any stress to the engine, my friend said that it will take a couple of days for the bearing to bed in, do u think it will be ok? Or another thing, do u think i should have replaced all 6 of them? The only reason i didnt replace the rest was cause i knew that it was only the first one that was makin the clattering noise and when i came to start the engine up there was no clattering noise which i was soo happy about, as i was scared i was gonna hear it again, do u think it will be alright with the rest not done, ive got it in my head that saying if it aint broke dont fix it kinda thing but also theres the sayin that its good practice to replace them anyways, what do yall think? If its a matter of replacing all of them then ill take it monday again and do them all, ive got the bearing for it so that shouldnt be a problem, but what i wanna know if it doesnt need doin or messin with will it be fine? :shrug:


sorry for the long post, just need some very good advice/ help on this one, as always any info appreciated thanks :)
 
Don't know why one wouldn't do all of them. It's $60 for new TTY rod bolts and superior Clevite bearings.
 
Well, I'm no expert so please keep that in mind.
I would have done all of them while it was apart. Hell, I didn't realize you could only buy 2 bearing halves! I had to buy all 12 and installed them all while the motor was out. FYI - all my old bearings looked about the same with some sort of crater (stated in the Ford book as a fatigue failure). PO said the motor didn't make any sounds so I knew the crank was good. I just did the bearings because it was easy. I hope you used new Ford rod bolts.

Also - the motor turns real easy with the plugs out. Just a 3/8" ratched on the end of the crank and you can turn it to get at the bearings you need to change.

Keep us posted. I'm interested to here how long this is going to last. Not that I'm doubting you - it's the first time I've read about someone just changing out a few bearings to save the motor.
 
sir i dont know if ive saved the motor, ive brought 12 bearings from fords usa, and had them shipped over here, its not hard to change all 12 of them, but as i said i thought if it aint broke dont fix it, but i think this monday im gonna do it again, i know the bolts are tty so should only be used once but i reused the rod bolts on there, i torqued them up to what the haynes manual said, so im gonna see if on sunday i can do this bolt to stop the manifold blowing and see if i can hear any noises from the engine, if it has any im gonna replace all 12 of them, i know about the spark plug bit that taking off the plugs will let it turn easier, as the compression will get lost by the hole the plug has left, but i will see if the noise is gone when i fix this bolt, im gonna grind it off flat with the flange on the manifold, then im gonna punch it with a punch to mark it and then im gonna drill it with a little hole, then bigger until i can get another bolt through it and seal this manifold up. ive got a feeling that its not gonna do anygood, but i can only try, if it doesnt do any good, im gonna check that bearing i replaced on monday to see if its come off its bit, do u think if its knocking it will be hitting that bearing? Ill take them off if they are and then replace all 12 of them, but as i said the crankshaft looks good, will replacing the bearings all 12 of them should that do it any good?

Also theres this company that does this oil additive called Moreys oil stabiliser, do u think this will help out to stop the knocking? Or is it a waste of money? Any info appreciated and i will deff let u know how i get on, and also ill take a pic of the bearings that came off the car, it looked bad :(
 
Don't know why one wouldn't do all of them. It's $60 for new TTY rod bolts and superior Clevite bearings.


buddy i wanted to ask u a favor, if i paid u 80 dollars for yur effort and help would u buy me the clevite bearings and rod bolts all 12 of them and send them over to me in england please? It would really be helpful if u could, then i can pay u by paypal as it is easy and a safe fast way of paying u for the items, if u would buy them for me as said i will pay u the 80 dollars for yur trouble, which is 20 dollars more than u said the price for them both, u have a bit extra for yur help, will u let me know please, either by reply on this site or by pm please, any info appreciated thanks Freddy :)
 
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