• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Warmonger brake info/install thread

Well it's about time someone finishes and posts a full opinion. :D

So tell EVERYONE how it work and if its worth it.....since you are the first one done with the whole set besides Ray and DemonSVT.
lol

I guess we will have to wait for someone who has actually driven their car the day or two before the conversion and after.
 
That will be me!! I am finishing them tomorrow morning as I got the rotor thing fixed (I hope). Hopefully my SS lines show as they havent yet :(
 
warmonger said:
Well it's about time someone finishes and posts a full opinion. :D

So tell EVERYONE how it work and if its worth it.....since you are the first one done with the whole set besides Ray and DemonSVT.
lol

I guess we will have to wait for someone who has actually driven their car the day or two before the conversion and after.
Click to expand...

Well to be fair, I had the luxury of already having my car sitting on stands for 2 months and removing the brakes long ago. And it seems everyone who thought it would be worth it bought some, and if I convince them now all they can do is bish about how they missed there chance. :laugh:

The (low) cost is very easily justified by the gains. Bang for the buck factor: 10 of 10.

No, I hadnt driven my car in a while, but it definitely wasnt this good. And looking at the setup now with my rims on, I cant believe my dinky rears used to be my front brakes. I think I need 13" fronts. You wanna design another bracket? lol.

I will be ordering stainless brake lines/ATE fluid ASAP. The brakes grip hard, but my pedal feels soft. I am currently running Valvoline brake fluid. Im jumping on the Rara ship and saying look elsewhere. Its OK for a blah car, but I need more now dammit. :help:
 
I think, being the only one who had a BACK TO BACK comparison of the stock VS warmonger upgrade..

You can see me reactions in previous posts about the kit in the recent past.
I drove my stock brake-equipped car TO Mississippi, and Tom's car HOME.. it was HARD to get used to the difference.. You could LITERALLY, toss yourself forward while pressing as hard as you were used to having to do.
 
OK WTF do I have to do to get these rear rotors to go on straight? I am getting pretty pissed off now since Iv been working ongetting one straight for the past two hours + 6 hours two days ago. I cant seem to get em to stop wobbling. I am PISSED!!
 
You must clean up the inside of the rotor hat down at the base. It must be widened to fit. Non OEM rotors seem to take more work than OEM.
The hats are sort of tapered. Just work down at the bottom where you will make the most difference.
 
All done. Looks good and feels good too. I am going to install the SS lines tomorrow I hope and bleed the brakes and clutch too...82K never done!
 
Just got done installing the fronts. I have a question though....I did not have to grind the top stud at all. Everything lined up perfect with no gaps. Will this present any problem? I also had no casting flash on my caliper bracket....hmmm.

Now onto the rears :D
 
COUGAR99 said:
Just got done installing the fronts. I have a question though....I did not have to grind the top stud at all. Everything lined up perfect with no gaps. Will this present any problem? I also had no casting flash on my caliper bracket....hmmm.

Now onto the rears :D
Click to expand...

Bill didnt have to at all. Had to grind the hell out of the rears though... I would know I did one of them. :D
 
COUGAR99 said:
Just got done installing the fronts. I have a question though....I did not have to grind the top stud at all. Everything lined up perfect with no gaps. Will this present any problem? I also had no casting flash on my caliper bracket....hmmm.

Now onto the rears :D
Click to expand...


Did you check the pics I posted of the problem? There should be a small gap between the 'hat' of the top stud and the caliper bracket to ensure there is no interference. When they touched, the alignment of the caliper bracket could change one way or another depending on which caliper bracket bolt was tightened first.
 
Yea I saw your pics...even though they touch, everything is still in alignment. I tightened the bottom first then the top and then reversed it and there still wasn't any issue with the rotor touching the caliper bracket. Everything appears square as well, when I turn the rotor it stays centered in the bracket.

Update: Someone stripped the rear caliper bracket bolts out. I decided to put everything back together and call it quits for the night. I took the car for a drive and there are no noises...scraps, rattles. I can definetly feel the bias more towards the front. When I got home I took a look and it seems that my drivers side pad isn't contacting the rotor all the way. Thats my fault though since I am re-using my old pads that are pretty much brand new. That rotor was the original and has 117K on it. There were ridges on the rotor and consequently on the pad. I tried to plane the pad but I guess I didn't quite get it even enough. If it doesn't improve and I can't make it better by removing some pad material then I'll be getting new pads.
 
Last edited:
Well I will say the more I drive the more I am impressed by these new brakes, and can see a difference. Even though I cannot give a good back to back comparison, habits are habits. Tonight, doing some "spirited" driving, my old braking habits became visible, as I was using the same pedal pressure without thinking, and coming up short (braking too early) every time. So there is my comparison. I actually think that may be a better indicator than guessing.

On another note, the scraping noise came back. Im fairly certain its coming from the drivers side, and is really only surfaces on left turns. Im pulling everything apart again tomorrow to check and see whats up :blackeye:. Gotta do what you gotta do.
 
COUGAR99 said:
Yea I saw your pics...even though they touch, everything is still in alignment. I tightened the bottom first then the top and then reversed it and there still wasn't any issue with the rotor touching the caliper bracket. Everything appears square as well, when I turn the rotor it stays centered in the bracket.

Update: Someone stripped the rear caliper bracket bolts out. I decided to put everything back together and call it quits for the night. I took the car for a drive and there are no noises...scraps, rattles. I can definetly feel the bias more towards the front. When I got home I took a look and it seems that my drivers side pad isn't contacting the rotor all the way. Thats my fault though since I am re-using my old pads that are pretty much brand new. That rotor was the original and has 117K on it. There were ridges on the rotor and consequently on the pad. I tried to plane the pad but I guess I didn't quite get it even enough. If it doesn't improve and I can't make it better by removing some pad material then I'll be getting new pads.
Click to expand...

Also, even though though you say everything lined up, you'd better grind the back of that upper stud just to be safe. If you can see a small bit of light between it and the bracket then you are good. Remember that brakes heat up? Metal expands and when you are already touching you have no room for expansion. THen the bracket is going to turn and the pads won't be centered. There's plenty of metal AND you can do a tiny bit of grinding on the back of the bracket bar rather than just the stud head if you prefer.

Your old pads should bed in pretty soon, just make sure it isn't a clearance issue first or they'll bed in wrong.
 
KingpinSVT said:
On another note, the scraping noise came back. Im fairly certain its coming from the drivers side, and is really only surfaces on left turns. Im pulling everything apart again tomorrow to check and see whats up :blackeye:. Gotta do what you gotta do.
Click to expand...

Pulled the left rear apart today. The rotor was touching the caliper bracket, but only periodically I guess. In any case, I quickly took away a little more material with the die grinder, painted, and reassembled.

Im getting damn good at pulling apart the brakes. I think this whole process took me 45 min.
 
I finally started the rears today after much swearing over the invention of the torx bolt. I didn't get to finish but I made decent headway. I have one question...How much clearance should there be between the caliper mounting bracket and the rotor?
 
I think I'll have you look at mine if/when we get the chance (maybe this weekend). They stopped a lot better than stock, but I don't know, something doesn't seems right. They held together for a weekend of hard driving, so it can't be anything too bad.
 
Does anyone know the outside diameter of the rear bearing assembly? I have access to a lathe here at work and would rather turn down the inside of the rotor hat that way than to sit and grind them out.
 
Nope. You could always pull one of the rear brakes off and look, wont take all that long. Youll want to measure it with a caliper at least anyway, maybe someone here can help you.
 
SvtTour98.5-3 said:
Does anyone know the outside diameter of the rear bearing assembly? I have access to a lathe here at work and would rather turn down the inside of the rotor hat that way than to sit and grind them out.
Click to expand...

It's about the same size as the inside of your front SVT rotor. :idea:

Just add 1mm to that size and cut it all the way down in and you'd be good.

It only takes five minutes with a drum sander on a drill and a grinding stone for the last little bit at the bottom... each side that is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top