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Battery Light Revisited

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todras said:
What are E3 plugs?
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E3 plugs are from a new maker who has engineered a plug the is supposed to have a better spark pattern then conventional plugs (including the quad platinums and all the other lovely things). I figured I would run them for 3 to 4 K and take a look at how they have held up. I didn't expect the light to go out though (I think that is more of a result of the wires then the plugs)
 
Jay Starling said:
E3 plugs are from a new maker who has engineered a plug the is supposed to have a better spark pattern then conventional plugs (including the quad platinums and all the other lovely things). I figured I would run them for 3 to 4 K and take a look at how they have held up. I didn't expect the light to go out though (I think that is more of a result of the wires then the plugs)
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I checked out the E3 web site. There is noting there that hasn't been presented by other snake oil spark plug manufactures. File this is the same catagory as Split Fire spark plugs and put you wallet away.

The spark plug does no more than initiate the burn. It either lights the fire or it doesn't. If their flame shape really did make the burn quicker, the ignition timing curve would require alternation to prevent engine ping.

I'm especially concerned that their tip configuration might not wear well with our waste fire ignition system with half of the cylinders firing with reverse polarity.
 
What fixed the light?

Big Daddy Kane said:
I did notice that without the 12V line that energizes the stator (the little single connector), the battery light doesn't come on
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Was studying for promotion and noticed I gave some misinformation. Don't want to mislead people, so want to correct this...

The +12VDC single connector energizes the rotor on an AC alternator. The rotor is the electromagnet, the stator coils are the conductor. With motion (and 12V on the rotor), the magnetic lines of force "cut" through the conductors, creating electricity.

Reason the magnets are not stationary and the conductors are turned to "cut" through the magnetic field (as they are with a generator), is because the high voltage/current doesn't have to pass through brushes, making them more reliable.

The alternator actually puts out AC voltage internally. There are a set of diodes (rectifier) that turn the AC into DC.

I'm not 100% on how the voltage regulator works... it could be a potential transformer (AC, so before the diodes) or a DC-DC convertor. :shrug:

Anyway, just some gee-whiz info for y'all.

Here's a pic of it... the top is a "generator" while the bottom is an "alternator." Notice how in the generator, the conductors are moved through the magnetic field, where as the alternator the magnetic field is moved through the conductors?

30.10.GIF
 
RawBurt said:
battery Light Is Gone!!!!!!!!!!!!
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What did you do?

I'm having a similar problem with my battery light. Light on, test battery, buy new battery. Light still comes on, but only above 2,500 rpm. Test mega fuse. Fuse ok, so replace alternator. Now, the light only comes on above 6,000 rpm. What should I do? Wiring fix?

And what is the wiring fix, anyway? My alternator came with this sheet. Is that it?
 

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I'm not sure if you have the same problem as me. But, I went with a different brand alternator and it soved the trick. I tried everything else with no results.
 
make sure your belt is on right. I'm pretty sure the dealership installed mine wrong and it lead to premature alternator failure with similar symptoms to yours.
 
just for fun try the NON a/c belt. Then switch to the reg a/c belt and report.

I bet your tensioner is loose and you guys with this crazy "battery light problem" may need a new tensioner?. My 2 cents.
 
fordsvt98 said:
I bet your tensioner is loose and you guys with this crazy "battery light problem" may need a new tensioner?. My 2 cents.
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The guy at Advance thought this might be the case, too. But I don't think it is. Why not? Because the pulley broke the first time I pulled the alternator about two years ago. New pulley, belt, and voltage regulator.

After swapping out my alternator a week ago, I can say with 100% confidence that the issue is not due to the belt or the pulley.

So it looks like I have a decision to make. 1. Order the Ford part from my attachment (see previous post). 2. Do the wiring fix myself. 3. Swap the alternator again because so many other people have had problems with non-OEM parts.

I like 2. the best.
 
Tensioner had absolutely nothing to do with my battery light. They were handing out BAD alternators and the second I installed it, the battery light was there. I'm sure people are getting battery lights for different reasons, but I am simply stating mine
 
RawBurt said:
Tensioner had absolutely nothing to do with my battery light. They were handing out BAD alternators and the second I installed it, the battery light was there. I'm sure people are getting battery lights for different reasons, but I am simply stating mine
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On that note..... this thread has run its course. Thank you all who contributed and kept it civil (????). :p

If others have battery light issues not related to what's been posted, they may start a new thread.
 
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