Am I getting ripped off?

[Ray]

You don't even remove the tire.

remove the "duratec" cover on the top (three bolts)
press the WP belt tensioner in (by hand, nonetheless) and remove the belt.

remove the 8(iirc) bolts that hold the impellar half to the engine block. Snake it out from between the nest of coolant hoses. Helps to remove the main large coolant hose from the clamp on top , and use string to tie it straight up in the air so it doesn't continue to dump coolant all over the ground.

clean the gasket off the engine, if any sticks.

remove any broken pieces of the old impellar inside the engine bay half, making a puzzle-like connection to verify you got them all.

slap on new gasket, slap on new impellar.
replace belt by hand (two fingers.. really!)

I can do it in 20 minutes on a hot engine.
Check out the Duratec Maintenance forum, under READ FIRST, as stated above for our how-to files.

 

[69Boss302]

Circled is where the waterpump is.

 

[svt4stv]

FOR $500 I will come to your house and install it in your driveway where ever you live

he will. and he'll include a reach-around as well

 

[BlackE1]

take off the front tire, take of the splash guard, remove water pump, replace.

you go up from the ground.... seems like thats harder then then going fromthe top down. I have replaced one in about an hour from the top.

 

[tigerbalm]

take off the front tire, take of the splash guard, remove water pump, replace.

what kind of car are you talking about??? it cant be the 2.5. Just remove the IMRC cover and its right there. taking the battery out gives all the room you really need.

 

[Tony2005]

... taking the battery out gives all the room you really need.

If it is an ATX, removing the battery tray helps too.

Oh, and Welcome, soph17!

 

[Jeb Hoge]

you go up from the ground.... seems like thats harder then then going fromthe top down. I have replaced one in about an hour from the top.

No, what I think I'm reading from that description is that by taking off the splash guard, you have less of a mess inside your engine bay? I dunno. The only thing I have against changing it myself is that coolant can kill a pet or kid right quick, and I'd be worried that I'd miss a puddle once I was done. Lots of both kinds of critters in our neighborhood.

 

[Kevinm]

The splash guard is so far removed from where the water pump is on a 2.5L???

 

[Big Daddy Kane]

take off the front tire, take of the splash guard, remove water pump, replace.

you go up from the ground.... seems like thats harder then then going fromthe top down. I have replaced one in about an hour from the top.

what kind of car are you talking about??? it cant be the 2.5. Just remove the IMRC cover and its right there. taking the battery out gives all the room you really need.

The splash guard is so far removed from where the water pump is on a 2.5L???

You don't even remove the tire.

Ditto for Ray... Elradio (and all the confusion quoted above) was talking about a Zetec (4 cylinder)!

Duratec (V6) is nowhere near the tire/splash guard! It's pretty much top front and center in the engine bay!

 

[elraido]

Holy crap, I am way off. what the hell am i thinking of? I sware I read that you could change it out like that....or is that another part that I am getting confused with? Man am I a re-re. LOL.

 

[Big Jim]

For what it is worth, I've seen them changed on a Contour V6 in as little as 20 minutes. It takes me about an hour.

Did the shop include a jar of Vasoline?

 

[todras]

If it was a dealer it would have looked like this.

 

[elraido]

If it was a dealer it would have looked like this.

Man, they can't even suck it up to afford KY.

 

[RialKnight]

If it was a dealer it would have looked like this.

That's Classic

 

[DanMyers]

Whoever told you it was on the bottom of the engine, was more than likely speaking of the Alternator. That is on the bottom of the pass. side of the engine and requires removal of the outer tie-rod end and many bloody knuckles, the waterpump as everyone has said is way easier. My advice is that if your alt. goes, take it to a reputable local shop, if it's your WP, do it yourself and save lots of money.

 

[TourDeForce]

If it was a dealer it would have looked like this.

I was thinking that would make an appearance in this thread. It is worthy of it. Cripes, $650 for a 1 hour job & $70 part.

Get your pump from Bill Jenkins NOW! That's a very good price for an OEM full pump assembly. I don't need one, but I'm thinking about getting one for future use.... onder:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
If that price is for all 4, then Please reserve them all for me!!

Sorry man, that is $70 each.

LOL Ray! Contour owners are so difficult to work with...

 

[Bill1]

Just make sure you do a coolant flush while your at it. Our engines are aluminum. This causes the coolant to become acidic, eventually. This acid eats the seals and gaskets on the pump. I found out the hard way. Replaced four pumps in quick succession before I flushed the system. If it hasn't been flushed in a while that may be what caused it to fail in the first place.

 

[69Boss302]

ok, so I made a quick how to in the Duratec section.


http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?p=119789#post119789

 

[Ray]

I saw that, and linked it in the Duratec How-to, and Duratec Maintenance forums.. I think I had it linked before you were able to leave the how-to forum after posting it. Nice timing! thanks, again.

 

[Desiato]

Dealership got a friend of mine for $650CDN on front pads and rotors for his Focus SE. Wish he would have called me first.