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Full Oval Port 3L Swap How-To

jeromio said:
I got the word (from the guys at Nautilus) that the tune just can't be mod'd to support the COP. Shame that. Now I gotta buy new wires too...
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COP has a completey different resistance pack and baselines. COP is nearly impossible to tune for using the stock CDW-27 code. No OEM CDW-27 used a complete COP setup.
 
hi guys, is this the only how to on here to help swap the 3 liter block with the svt heads and cams? I was told you need to block some oil passages on the block, but which ones? :confused: Ive been reading on here and it seems that as long as u have the svt head cams upper and lower manifolds that everything else just bolts up which is really good if its correct. A picture with a step by step would be really helpful on here if someones already done this, any info would be appreciated thanks :)
 
fred22 said:
hi guys, is this the only how to on here to help swap the 3 liter block with the svt heads and cams? I was told you need to block some oil passages on the block, but which ones? :confused: Ive been reading on here and it seems that as long as u have the svt head cams upper and lower manifolds that everything else just bolts up which is really good if its correct. A picture with a step by step would be really helpful on here if someones already done this, any info would be appreciated thanks :)
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There are links to other How Tos posted here:
http://www.newcougar.org/forums/3-0...2050-faq-most-your-3l-questions-answered.html
 
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96BlackSE said:
-The top passenger side engine mount has to be fitted onto the Taurus engine as well. Again, you can either use the one off of the 2.5 and grinded it up so it fits onto the engine with out taking the heads off or buy a new one which will need grinding as well… (the newer ones will need a bit less grinding) Also depending on the year of the engine there are 2 different sizes bolts which hold the mount in place, make sure you use the proper ones.
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CAUTION ! BEWARE OF DUMB QUESTIONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok i got the bolts out from the top and the mount is loose from the block but it will not fit between the heads? any help on getting it out without removing the heads ? or is that required... next ..

the timing cover it's loose and ready to come off the 2.5 to transfer to my 3.0 but i can't get that crank pulley off ?? any sugestions ? im gonna try a new tool later today and hopefully that works but who knows ..

last but not least im usine the escape fuel rail so which injector harness do i use the 1 from my 2.5? or the 3.0?

thanks for the advice i should be droping the engine in tonight or tomorrow afternoon !!!!!
 
SpdySVT said:
CAUTION ! BEWARE OF DUMB QUESTIONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok i got the bolts out from the top and the mount is loose from the block but it will not fit between the heads? any help on getting it out without removing the heads ? or is that required... next ..

the timing cover it's loose and ready to come off the 2.5 to transfer to my 3.0 but i can't get that crank pulley off ?? any sugestions ? im gonna try a new tool later today and hopefully that works but who knows ..

last but not least im usine the escape fuel rail so which injector harness do i use the 1 from my 2.5? or the 3.0?

thanks for the advice i should be droping the engine in tonight or tomorrow afternoon !!!!!
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either you pull off a head or you grind down the mount to fit around it.

the crank pulley might be reverse threaded. [i didn't pull this myself.] try searching on "crank pulley" in both the Forums and the Old Forums.

you must use your 2.5L wiring harness. if the injectors don't fit, you can either splice in plugs that mate up to the injectors or you can buy adapters from the store named at the start of this thread or you can buy new injectors.
 
thanks im about to go over to the shop now to work on the crank and engine mount ... hope all goes well i got a crank puller took from dicsount auto that i rented so i hope it works about the mount i guess i dotta take off the head then i will grind it to fin into the 3.0 and who knows about the fuel injectors i'll try it all on them lol... thanks again ..
 
ok my turn.
im getting ready to put in a '02 taurus 3L in my svt and want to get it straight before i start. i will be using ths svt lim/uim+tb

what i need to do is. .

port the intake runners on the heads
cut the 2 tabs off
take out the pilot bearing
trim/grind the pass. side motor mount
tap/or cut & splice sensors
upgrade oil pan or swap svt pan over

this will be for a dd type car so getting it back on the road is more important then the performance side .

thank you for any help and suggestions
 
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This post is for full 3 liter swaps, meaning no SVT UIM/LIM. You'll want to search some other threads for your information.
 
ok well the pulley and timing cover came off well and i got the motor mount off the 2.5 block so everything off the 2.5 is finished .. the only thing im having problems with is getting the pulley and balancer off of the 3.0 ????? i broke two 5/8 sockets and 1 breaker bar .. i tried it both ways just in case it was reverse thread any clue how to get it off the bolt is a PITA !!!!! so if anyone had a hard time getting the 3.0 crank pulley bolt off call me 863-595-6132 (patrick) i will be working on getting the 3.0 in today it's almost a must... other than that it's ready to go in ... i think lol...............
 
driving me insane !!!!!!!

driving me insane !!!!!!!

ok this F in sucks im really about to deop the whole project anyone have a sure way to get the 3.0 balancer off my taurus motor
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? it's the last thing i have to do b 4 i can drop it in..... I work 10am-to-10pm so shops are not open to consult or drop off my motor to get it worked on... im broke and i have air tools they are great for everything except this i can't get the fly wheel to stop spinning and now i have the tranny on and i can't get to it to try ... i tried with the tranny off and with it on how the hell do i get the crank from spinning it's driving me insane !!!!!!!!!!! any advice besides droping it off into a lake????
 
The dampner itself uses a conventional bolt. If the add-on pulley that is used on the Taurus is still present, the bolts holding it on are reverse thread.

The bolt is torqued on very tightly. You may need a very powerful air impact wrench to remove it. You may need to borrow or rent a tool strong enough. Ingersol Rand makes an impact rated the 1000 ft lbs and will wasily do the job. My electric impact will not. It comes off in the conventional manner. It is not reverse thread.

It may be necessary to hold the flywheel from spinning with a very large screwdriver or prybar into the flywheel teeth. Unless you can figure out a way to hold the axle shafts from spinning, you may need to pull the trans off again to hold the flywheel.
 
As described in my other post cut the shaft off as close to the damper as possible so you have a mushroom top left. Then cut the left over top like a pizza with the angle grinder and use a hammer to hit the pieces together to relieve pressure from the threads. You can then use a large flat head screw driver to turn in one of the cuts and it will spin right out. It's worked on everyone I've had trouble with.
 
most ghetto paint pic ever ...

most ghetto paint pic ever ...

Blackcoog said:
As described in my other post cut the shaft off as close to the damper as possible so you have a mushroom top left. Then cut the left over top like a pizza with the angle grinder and use a hammer to hit the pieces together to relieve pressure from the threads. You can then use a large flat head screw driver to turn in one of the cuts and it will spin right out. It's worked on everyone I've had trouble with.
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anything like this ????????????

30crankpullercut.jpg


sorry the pic is horable i couldn't take pics my camera is dead .. and if it is like this how deep do i cut till it's flush with the pulley ??????????
 
pulse wheel

pulse wheel

This thread absolutely must make mention of the pulse wheel:
attachment.php

Before you put the timing cover back on, pull the pulse wheel and turn it 180 degrees, put it back on. Otherwise you have to pull the intake, valve covers, alternator and timing cover.
 
Just posted this in the other pulsewheel thread you posted. I think your picture is confusing, and does not show the correct wheel, just like the contour manuals ive seen.

That picture does not help much of anything.

The pulse wheel needs to be set to the timing cover you are using!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THIS picture is what should be followed
fb812c8a.jpg


If you buy a taurus motor and keep the 3 liter cams and use the 2.5 liter timing cover from your old 2.5 motor you need to swap the pulsewheel from what it was while using the taurus timing cover, to the other keyway (opposite from the gap in the teeth)

If you use an escape motor, with an escape cover, and svt cams you LEAVE the pulsewheel where it is (since the escape cover is the same keyway as the contour)

Bottom line, decide what timing cover you are using and look at the picture and set the pulsewheel to what the picture says.
 
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