Taurus crank damper

Who's got experience removing the crank damper bolt from a 2001 Taurus 3.0? I'm having trouble getting the damper bolt out on the motor I've got and was beginnning to wonder if it's LH threaded. I put the oxy aceylene torch to it and then the impact gun and it's a no-go.

I already cut off the front half of the shaft so I'm dealing strictly with the large (15/16"or 24mm) hex which is close to the damper.

With the SHO motors, we used to put the wrench on the bolt, block the ratchet handle against the subframe, then bump the starter. Using the engine would usually spin the bolt free. However, I don't know if you've got clearance in your particular engine bay. Worth a look, though.

Nevermind, I can't read stuff right. The bolt that holds the actual damper to the crank shaft is a normal bolt. Normally there is an extension on the damper which is a LH bolt.

A Ford mechanic told me that the first hex (16mm) was LH threaded. Didn't really matter as I cut off the shaft so I could get a wrench on the larger of the 2 hexes. First I tried a breaker bar with the flywheel end of the crank bolted up solid via a bracket I made to the block. No go. Then I used a tube about 1 foot long extending the breaker bar-no go. Then I welded a 3 foot long piece of rectangular steel tube to the bolt. The welds broke. Did it again but added about triple the amount of weld. Broke again. Lastly, I used an oxy acetylene torch to heat the bolt to approx. 500 degree F and used an impact gun-no go!

Looks like I'll be loading the motor into my truck to take to my buddies industrial brake shop. They do brakes for huge overhead cranes and 18 wheelers and they have BIG tools. If that doesn't work, I'll be cutting off the bolt, pulling the damper, and pull the crank from the block when I'm doing the rod bearings. Are 3.0 cranks the same as 2.5's?

This is part of the link below.



"Conclusions and Heads-Up "

That concludes the details of the components. Here are some things that you will want to be aware of:

The Taurus/Sable front of engine water pump mounting can be extremely challenging. Removing the front belt drive and crankshaft pulley assembly can give you heartache your first time. The crankshaft pulley is threaded for a stub shaft that is also threaded for the pulley belt drive assembly and mount. Both the stub shaft and belt drive pulley are left hand thread and will require a special long deep well socket to remove the stub shaft (Figure 15).

The crank exciter rings can give you fits, so make certain you are using the correct indexing for the application. If you have the angle mount sensor make certain to have the angle tooth ring (Figure 16).

The 1999 engine can be a profit-eating shark, so make certain that you know which block casting you have to determine the head gasket set you are going to use....

It's part of this

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb90546.htm

That explains it. Funny thing.... I got that article at a Machine Shop that did some work for me and read it a no. of times. Unfortunately I didn't look at the pix and don't recall seeing the LH thread info. in the text. Going to reread it now!

Thanks.

Bradness said:

That explains it. Funny thing.... I got that article at a Machine Shop that did some work for me and read it a no. of times. Unfortunately I didn't look at the pix and don't recall seeing the LH thread info. in the text. Going to reread it now!

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Ouch that sucks....

OK, I finally got it. Reverse threaded it was and it sure didn't come easy. Put a 3/4" drive impact gun to it and it still wouldn't budge. Next, we put the oxy acetylene torch to the inner cast ring on the damper for about 3 minutes and then used the impact gun and finally it came off. We actually burned out the rubber ring between the 2 halves of the damper and scorched the seal.

If I only had access to hand tools I would have been screwed!

You can use an angle grinder to cut it off right up to the damper and then cut the remainder like a pizza to relieve tension. Since you aren't using the damper you can cut into it to get all the way down.

Blackcoog said:

You can use an angle grinder to cut it off right up to the damper and then cut the remainder like a pizza to relieve tension. Since you aren't using the damper you can cut into it to get all the way down.

Click to expand...

Exact method I used. Nothing else, including a torch, would work.

Have not seen the obvious posted...

Lefty loosey, Righty tightey. ...or opposite arrays...

Blackcoog said:

You can use an angle grinder to cut it off right up to the damper and then cut the remainder like a pizza to relieve tension. Since you aren't using the damper you can cut into it to get all the way down.

Click to expand...

posthuman63t said:

Exact method I used. Nothing else, including a torch, would work.

Click to expand...

anyone have pics or better instructions of this process its my last option before my 3.0 goes into the lake ..

kinda like this ???

kinda like this ???


kinda like this ???
i know it's ghetto ms paint but thats what i can work with im a driver not a paint wiz... lol ??? and do i cut all the way to the crank damper/ which i labled as a "pulley"

Exactly like the pictures shows. Cut as close to the damper as you can. The damper is garbage anyway so feel free to cut into it when cutting the slices.

GOT IT ...... what a P.I.T.A. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it took me seriously 1 week workin on this pulley/ balancer ..... finally i started cutting till it just loosened up .. if anyone doin a 3.0 swap is havin problems just get a good wheel on a good angle grinder and grind it like said above and don't worry about the pulley ... accept that you gotta have something to hook the pulley puller tool too thats it any questions call me the # is always avalablw 863-595-6132 Patrick ..... the motor goes in today and sunday ..... thanks for all the help !!!! it was really a life saver ...