BillyT
CEG'er
Is this normal or should I take it back right away and demand they fix it so it's silent?
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Had my Alternator replaced and now the new one has a slight whistle at low RPMs
- Thread starter BillyT
- Start date
AbsolutSVT
CEG'er
Mine did the same thing at low RPM's, alternator lasted about 1000 miles before I was getting the light flashing at high RPM's. Swapped it out thanks to Napa's lifetime warranty and havent had a problem since.
TourDeForce
Hard-core CEG'er
Not normal.
The shop will likely test it & tell you it's working fine. Eventually, it will fail. You should insist on an alternator that is silent like the OEM alternator, like every other properly functioning alternator on the planet.
The shop will likely test it & tell you it's working fine. Eventually, it will fail. You should insist on an alternator that is silent like the OEM alternator, like every other properly functioning alternator on the planet.
ROTFL. This "beating around the bush" thing is BS. Let us just go for the jugular immediately. :laugh:....You should insist on an alternator that is silent like the OEM alternator, like every other properly functioning alternator on the planet.
what you didn't say is if the alternator was a rebuild, I have to guess it is and I bet the bearing where not changed when it was rebuilt. You are much better of getting a junk yard Motorcraft alternator over a rebuild but ultimately if you don't want to have any issues in the long run get a new OEM Motorcraft alternator ...
this is just another prof that the contour like OEM parts over aftermarket ones ...
this is just another prof that the contour like OEM parts over aftermarket ones ...
BillyT
CEG'er
what you didn't say is if the alternator was a rebuild, I have to guess it is and I bet the bearing where not changed when it was rebuilt. You are much better of getting a junk yard Motorcraft alternator over a rebuild but ultimately if you don't want to have any issues in the long run get a new OEM Motorcraft alternator ...
this is just another prof that the contour like OEM parts over aftermarket ones ...
I called the shop and asked them a few questions...
Is the alternator a rebuild?
- Yes.
Were the bearings replaced?
- Yes, all internals are replaced.
Is there a warranty?
- Yes, 1 year/12,000 miles.
What should I do about the whistle?
- Bring it back in so we can check it out.
RoadiJeff
Veteran CEG'er
Are you sure it's the alternator and not a new belt that is making the noise? I replaced the serpentine belt on mine last year and I noticed a slight whistle for about a month.
BillyT
CEG'er
Are you sure it's the alternator and not a new belt that is making the noise? I replaced the serpentine belt on mine last year and I noticed a slight whistle for about a month.
The belt is about a year old and never made any noise before the alternator was replaced, but I guess wouldn't rule it out completely.
Eliteman76
New CEG'er
My thoughts concerning the alternator-probably the bearing statment is the most correct problem. I also concour to the statement of finding an OEM junkyard unit over a parts store reman unit.
General policy is they only replace what is bad.
Ask me about Advanced Auto Parts and my Explorer.
It took 5 "premium" units to get one that worked.
First was DOA out of the box, and I had made sure my battery was good, and fully charged to prevent frying the diodes.
They tried blaming the wiring. I replaced with a new Ford Harness, and surprise they had nothing but JUNK. Three different stores before I got a good unit.
On my 98 SE, I had to do mine last summer.
Ford can eat me for the act of congress it took to replace that thing due to the layout of the bolts. This is why everything else I have is 25+ years old.
I don't care if it gets 16 MPG, atleast I can fix it and don't have to use 4 feet of extensions to change the Alternator. {thank god for the CEG walk through guide!!}
I was so irritated at the thought of the bolt layout, I modified my layout slightly.
I used a holesaw on the frame rail, slugged the hole, and installed both of the bolts in from the rh wheel well, after replacing both with fully threaded grade 8 bolts. 15 minutes to swap one now.
I had my unit rebuilt by a local shop, using US made parts.
Short of reusing my case, it was 100% new for less than $85.
General policy is they only replace what is bad.
Ask me about Advanced Auto Parts and my Explorer.
It took 5 "premium" units to get one that worked.
First was DOA out of the box, and I had made sure my battery was good, and fully charged to prevent frying the diodes.
They tried blaming the wiring. I replaced with a new Ford Harness, and surprise they had nothing but JUNK. Three different stores before I got a good unit.
On my 98 SE, I had to do mine last summer.
Ford can eat me for the act of congress it took to replace that thing due to the layout of the bolts. This is why everything else I have is 25+ years old.
I don't care if it gets 16 MPG, atleast I can fix it and don't have to use 4 feet of extensions to change the Alternator. {thank god for the CEG walk through guide!!}
I was so irritated at the thought of the bolt layout, I modified my layout slightly.
I used a holesaw on the frame rail, slugged the hole, and installed both of the bolts in from the rh wheel well, after replacing both with fully threaded grade 8 bolts. 15 minutes to swap one now.
I had my unit rebuilt by a local shop, using US made parts.
Short of reusing my case, it was 100% new for less than $85.