replacing hard lines

This in for my 1998 SVT Contour...

well, the other day I noticed a couple spots on the driveway, didn't see anything so didn't think too much about it since I didn't see anything under the car. Then while driving it the next day my brake light started to flicker. So I got home and checked the fluid level, which was just bleed and filled within 600 miles, and the reservoir was almost empty.

Looking under the car I noticed a big spot of fluid just inside of the rear passenger side jack point cover. I looked around breifly with the car on the ground and could see a couple smaller hard lines that I could see a bit of and looked a bit rusty. So I'm figuring one or both of the hard lines running to the rear of the car rusted though and is now leaking, approximately around the gas tank area.

I haven't jacked the car up yet to get a better look at things but I have looked through my manual to look at diagrams to see what it's going to be like to replace the hard lines. The manual shows the lines running down the driver side but I can plainly see they are running down the passenger side. So I figure I will have remove the master cylinder and booster to gain access to the ABS module where I can start removing the lines. Not sure what I will need to do to the rest of the car to replace the lines, will have to see when I get it up on stands.

Tentative plans as of right now is to replace all the hard lines at this time, maybe replace rubber lines with braided lines if money permits and possibly rebuild the calipers while I have the brake system apart. I figure I can re-use the line fittings as long as they don't strip or round while taking it all apart.

Anyone done this on their Contour? Any tips? I have most of the hand tools I figure I will need except for a tubing bender and a flare tool. Any other special tools I might need?

Thanks

Well if you have an autoparts store close by check to see if they offer those tools in their loaner tool program. They may also have long pieces of tubing that come already flared with ends on them ready to bend and connect.

don't recall seeing those tools available at autozone or anything but a good thought, I will double check that before purchasing.

I've seen those tubing sections you mentioned but I don't recall seeing them over 4 feet or so and I'm sure I'm going to need a good length of tubing to get to the rears.

Would you suggest just regular steel tubing or should I go with stainless steel tubing? You can purchase 20-25 foot lengths from summit, would just have to bend, cut and flare it to fit.

The rental tools are way back behind the counter so you'll have to ask about them. I've never had luck flaring my own tubes so I usually end up joining them together with brass ferrules which some folks will say it too ghetto.

I know the tools are behind the counter but I don't recall seeing those listed on their tool list. But I will double check anyway.

I've never tried flaring tubes yet so... I'd like to do it all as one piece if I can just to minimize leak points, though I bet shorter sections would make for an easier install.

Any tips for getting the lines in and out of the car? Looks like it could prove to be a bit difficult though I haven't gotten under the car yet to really look at how the lines are routed under there.

there is a connection on both rear lines right about where you said the leak is coming from. if your lucky its leaking after that connection and you can just replace the 2 shorter sections. if not then you might as well replace the whole line. you will have to drop the tank to replace the rear portions of the lines as they run up along the subframe and then over the subframe.

I just did this on my 97 about 2 months ago. unless you drop the tank and the rear subframe, you wont be able to pre-bend the lines, as well as you may have to take them out in 2 or 3 sections. from what i could tell, those hard lines were pretty much the first things installed on the car when it was built.

This seems to be the new norm on rust belt Contours. This is the fifth tour I've heard of that did this. Rear passenger side hard line corroded through. This is the first 98 though. Most seem to be 96's. Tank needs to be dropped and a new hard line routed to the front.

damn... I have to drop the tank and the rear subframe!? Lucky me, I just filled up and have only 50 miles so far on this tank...

well I'll have to get it in the air and see exactly where the leak is coming from. I didn't realize there was a connection in that area.

Thanks for the tips on the rear section of the hard lines, any tips for if the leak is before the connection in the rear? For the lines that connect to the ABS module?

SVT#4967 said:

damn... I have to drop the tank and the rear subframe!? Lucky me, I just filled up and have only 50 miles so far on this tank...

well I'll have to get it in the air and see exactly where the leak is coming from. I didn't realize there was a connection in that area.

Thanks for the tips on the rear section of the hard lines, any tips for if the leak is before the connection in the rear? For the lines that connect to the ABS module?

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before that connection they are a pretty straight shot till they get to the engine bay so you could replace just a section of it.

also, you can replace the back sections without dropping the subframe but its a real PITA to get the passenger side through because of the filler neck. it can be done as i did it, it just cant be pre-bent and sucks.

ah, ok. Well, I'll try and get the car onto jack stands today and see if I can pin-point where the leak is coming from and then go from there.

I pulled the back up onto some ramps and got a good look at things.

One of the lines are wet on the front side of the fitting so it looks like it could be leaking from the connection but the lines and fitting are so rusted I think it's best if I just re-plumb the brakes.

I think it's stupid how the lines go above the rear subframe. I understand they did that so you can remove the subframe without interference from the lines but I think it can be re-routed so the lines don't go above the subframe yet allow for the subframe to be removed without problems from the brake lines and I think thats what I'm going to do.

I haven't looked under the front of the car yet to see what is going to be involved in getting the lines out of the front and back in. I know I have to remove the booster and master cylinder to access the lines at the abs module but I'm not sure how the lines are routed from the under side up to the module and what it's going to take to get the old ones out and the new ones in. Any thoughts or tips?

So, onto my other question. I've dropped the gas tank on my Accord, my Civic and my girls Jimmy so it's nothing extremely new. I've read through the manual and the procedure on how to remove the tank. Seems straight forward. About how much am I able to lower the tank before putting strain on the hoses and wires that are connected to it? Any tips for dropping it? Also, any tips for separating the filler tube from the tank? Do I just pull up on the white plastic collar while pushing the tabs in?

Also, any tips for draining the gas tank? I have some gas cans I used when I dropped the tank on my girls Jimmy when her fuel pump went and had a full tank of gas so I have a place to hold all the gas. Am I able to simply stick a hose down the filler tube and siphon it out? I'd prefer to drain the tank before dropping it to make it easier on myself.

Thanks

well, I finally got this finished and it was an experience.

I did not end up redoing the front hard lines as I ran out of time and wanted my car done for our vacation we are going on this weekend. So I just redid the rear hard lines and made stainless steel flex lines for all four corners.

I did reroute the hard line for the driver side rear over the exhaust and along the frame rail to the wheel well. The passenger side was the same, I just went along the frame rail to the wheel well. This means that the gas tank does not need to come down again for the brake lines. Only things that have to come down is the exhaust, heat shield and parking brake cables. I also wrapped the driver side hard line with thermo tape to help keep the brake fluid from heating up even though I doubt it'll matter much since the lines in the engine bay are unprotected.

Anyways, here are some pictures of the new hard lines and SS braided hoses...

SVT#4967 said:

So I just redid the rear hard lines and made stainless steel flex lines for all four corners. here are some pictures of the new hard lines and SS braided hoses...

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nice job. I'd be interested to know what difference the braided lines make to the braking feel and performance. Anyone ? ..G.

thanks

I'm not sure I'm the right person to answer your question because I hadn't driven the car much before doing this so I cant really recall how it felt and this is the first car I've done this too. But now the brake pedal has firm consistent feel, I like it.

I have the ss flex lines too, but I did the 13" Baer brake upgrade at the same time, so I can't really comment on them alone. Nice job fixing those brake lines .

Thanks