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I feel so stupid

silver rocket

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jun 9, 2009
Messages
1,017
Location
OFallon MO
Ok so i was putting in my other 2 speakers. (rear) And of course had to tear out my 2 front seats to get the screws of the trim. And while i was taking out the seat belt cover thing that covers the auto roll up thing i heard a bunch of snapping and not good stuff. So i took a look at the damage and i think i must have broken every piece of plastic back there! I'M SO PISSED. Now i can't change the seat belt position and have a bunch of plastic all over my car now. And on top of that i was a dumb:censored: and drilled a freakin hole into my door cause i forgot that the wire boot from car to door wasn't a 2 way connector. So i had to get silicone to seal that and keep my wires from shorting. And all this is after i'm done and take a step back to look at it. I feel so :censored:ing dumb. I don't think this day can get any worse other than my car dying. Or my speakers fry/blowup/explode just the piss me off some more.
 
im super confused, why were you in the door pillar section to install speakers?
 
Is it hard to possibly figure he might have been running new wires to power them with an amp?

yeah but thats still totally unnecessary, you can easily tuck wires in the plastic molding where the carpet meets the door sills.
 
Is it hard to possibly figure he might have been running new wires to power them with an amp?

Why would you do all that when all the wires (including power cable) will fit snugly under the plastic molding on the carpet?
 
Your speakers are in the doors, correct? If you do it right, you run it through the rubber hose thing and then it's behind the plastic on the B pillar. Then you'd have to take that off to properly run the wires without making it look like a 16 year old in high school did it.

Why would you "tuck the wire in" where it'd be in plain sight? That's pretty half-assed and it'd certainly look like crap.

Also, that's assuming you guys have the rubber joint where wires run. If not, like TGO did on the silver car I bought from him, you drill a hole in the door right around the same area and drill a hole into the B-pillar around the same area. It certainly makes it look like a clean install.
 
Your speakers are in the doors, correct? If you do it right, you run it through the rubber hose thing and then it's behind the plastic on the B pillar. Then you'd have to take that off to properly run the wires without making it look like a 16 year old in high school did it.

Why would you "tuck the wire in" where it'd be in plain sight? That's pretty half-assed and it'd certainly look like crap.

Also, that's assuming you guys have the rubber joint where wires run. If not, like TGO did on the silver car I bought from him, you drill a hole in the door right around the same area and drill a hole into the B-pillar around the same area. It certainly makes it look like a clean install.

you're not understanding. For one, no the wires are not in plain sight, they are covered by the floor plastic molding you know, the one where the carpet meets the door sill, where ford puts some factory wiring for various other things.

For two its totally unnecessary to remove the pillar molding unless he really wanted to run new wiring from the speakers to an amplifier.

For three, that rubber hose thing isnt a hose, its a connector take one apart some time you will see what I mean; you cant run wires "through it" because its a giant wiring harness connector for every accessory that runs to the door. Further more the stock wiring that is in place is large enough to support nearly any door speaker. unless you want to be pushing 100 watts rms to every there really is no need to replace the stock wiring, in which case the best solution is to go behind the glove box, unplug the factory wiring harness from the door speakers to the amplifier, attach your harness adaptor so you can wire up the door speakers to an aftermarket amplifier, obviously using a large amount of speaker wire to wherever you located your aftermarket amp. In which case you wont need to touch the B pillar covers.

However, that being said, if I were installing 100-150 watt door speakers in my car, then yes I would upgrading the wiring, and pulling the door b-panel covers off to run new wires to the speakers would be necessary.
 
I'm wondering why he needed to tear out his front seats, to put speakers in the back doors?:shrug: I didn't need to do that to replace all 4 of my speakers.:confused:
 
I'm wondering why he needed to tear out his front seats, to put speakers in the back doors?:shrug: I didn't need to do that to replace all 4 of my speakers.:confused:

Something tells me he was doing wiring for an aftermarket amplifier and wiring it up an untraditional way. Everybody does their own thing but this guy really was making more work for himself then he needed to.
 
you're not understanding. For one, no the wires are not in plain sight, they are covered by the floor plastic molding you know, the one where the carpet meets the door sill, where ford puts some factory wiring for various other things.

We're not even talking about that. We're talking about the B-pillar. The way you and the person under you described it, was you'd be taking the wires directly from the speaker and tucking them behind the edge of the b-pillar, thus the "16 year old in high school" comment was made to describe the quality of that picture.

For two its totally unnecessary to remove the pillar molding unless he really wanted to run new wiring from the speakers to an amplifier.

That's a confusing statement since you're disagreeing with what I said then agreeing with it.

For three, that rubber hose thing isnt a hose, its a connector take one apart some time you will see what I mean; you cant run wires "through it" because its a giant wiring harness connector for every accessory that runs to the door. Further more the stock wiring that is in place is large enough to support nearly any door speaker. unless you want to be pushing 100 watts rms to every there really is no need to replace the stock wiring, in which case the best solution is to go behind the glove box, unplug the factory wiring harness from the door speakers to the amplifier, attach your harness adaptor so you can wire up the door speakers to an aftermarket amplifier, obviously using a large amount of speaker wire to wherever you located your aftermarket amp. In which case you wont need to touch the B pillar covers.

On the topic of the connector, I haven't looked at the door jamb of a Contour in almost two years now, hence why I said "that's assuming you have it." Most people put the amp where? The trunk. Which is why I'm saying if you're going to do it right, and not a hack job...you'd want to take that cover off the b-pillar so you can pull the wires through the new hole you've made.

However, that being said, if I were installing 100-150 watt door speakers in my car, then yes I would upgrading the wiring, and pulling the door b-panel covers off to run new wires to the speakers would be necessary.

And now you're agreeing with me again. Instead of trying to make a point, which ultimately coincides with what I originally said...why even say anything to begin with?

Furthermore, we don't even know what he's installing...let alone the entire detailed list of his project. I suggested the most plausible option based on what he posted. So again I ask, why try and prove something, about what I said, wrong...especially when it seems to be the most possible scenario.
 
fail.jpg
 
For three, that rubber hose thing isnt a hose, its a connector take one apart some time you will see what I mean; you cant run wires "through it" because its a giant wiring harness connector for every accessory that runs to the door. Further more the stock wiring that is in place is large enough to support nearly any door speaker. unless you want to be pushing 100 watts rms to every there really is no need to replace the stock wiring, in which case the best solution is to go behind the glove box, unplug the factory wiring harness from the door speakers to the amplifier, attach your harness adaptor so you can wire up the door speakers to an aftermarket amplifier, obviously using a large amount of speaker wire to wherever you located your aftermarket amp. In which case you wont need to touch the B pillar covers.

However, that being said, if I were installing 100-150 watt door speakers in my car, then yes I would upgrading the wiring, and pulling the door b-panel covers off to run new wires to the speakers would be necessary.


Thank you Alias. I did run new wires to a amp in my trunk. My speakers definitely needs more than stock wiring. There rated at 240W and i think 170 RMS. And yes they are hidden other than where they come out of my b pillar. I needed to drill a hole so i could run my wiring. And i needed to take out my seats because i could not get the plastic screws out of the floor trim. But now that there in there it sounds so much better than 2 outa 4 working.
 
Oh, and if i was just replacing the speaker i could do it under 10 minutes. That's why i love my contour there's not really any plastic clips that hold any thing together. There all screws although some are plastic screws there better than clips.
 
About speaker wiring

About speaker wiring

First off,

In the factory wire for the speakers, they are 14AWG stranded copper wire. This type of wire is more than enough to run the setup you were trying to do. People have is insinuation that they NEED 10 or 12 gauge wire for speakers. I don't get.........:nonono:

Here is a little guide for everyone............

wire gauge..............................amperage limit
18 stranded.............................8
16 stranded.............................10-13(depends on material)
14 stranded..............................15-20
12 stranded...............................20-25
10 stranded................................are we getting the picture here???:shrug:

so you really think a 170 watt rms speaker is going to draw more than 20amps?? seriously?? I'm actually surprised ford used such a good wire.

Therefore, the factory wiring is more than enough for any speaker you can fit there, I mean come one.........how big of a speaker can your fit there? its a semi 6x9 housing (no losers, online sources say 6x8, but is actually bigger....go ahead, get a actual 6x8 speaker and see) and it has about 4" of clearance for depth. The biggest thing you can possible fit there is a JL 6" sub, with a 1/2" 6x9-to-6.5" plastic adapter.

I know cause i'm also a professional installer of audio/video and have made a similar set-up for a customer on a Mazda 626, which have the same clearance on their speaker location, and I used the factory wiring, and the mazda's is actually thinner.

All i did was run the from the amp to the wires at the head unit and connected it there. It has been 1.5 years now of that installation, and its still sounding sweet.......
Hope this helps you guys..
 
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