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replacing front struts and lower control arms

M

MadDog

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
622
Location
Augusta, GA
I recently replaced the rear struts and springs with BAT parts. I am now thinking of the fronts, but had some questions:

1) Is it necessary to have the front springs compressed while putting the complete strut+spring back into the vehicle ?

2) The strut replacement how-to from the cougar site has the user pull the drive shaft from the spindle, but the factory manual doesn't show this step. Any opinions on whether or not the drive shaft removal is really necessary ?

3) Is replacing the the front passenger-side lower control arm as easy as the factory manual looks ?

4) I was thinking of the Moog MOOG-RK80389 and MOOG-RK80390 for the lower control arms. Are these considered to be good, durable parts ?

Edit: I have the 2 bolt LCA as far as I can tell - 2000 CSVT

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
1. No
2. You do not need to remove the axle. You'll need to take care to keep the knuckle from separating the tripod...but if it comes out you should be able to push it back in.
3. Yes...2 bolts and out (after separating the ball joint from the knuckle).
4. For the most part yes, though I had a Moog set wear out in 40,000 miles. The bushings wore and ripped.

Get the knuckle back on the LCA. Get a long pry bar...thread it thru the LCA, and press down as far as you can go while lining up the strut into the knuckle. Some have even loosened the subframe bolts a few turns to get more clearance for the strut to fit into the knuckle. It can be a bit of a struggle, but it will go.
 
Thanks for the tips captastic. Any recommends on better lower control arms ? My OEM ones have lasted 240K miles.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
You really need to stick with OEM for the control arms/ball joints. I have moog front control arms and the ball joint rubber just falls apart and splits in half after a year (only 5,000 miles fyi) so water and dirt get in and ruin the joint. I cut that one off, replaced with a 'lifetime warranty' autozone part and now after about 2 years that rubber bushing is split open too. OEM bushing rubber is far superior to the aftermarket. I now have a new set of OEM 4 bolt control arms/bjs waiting to go in my car.

I agree with everything said above, except don't touch the subframe bolts. There is no need. I am literally doing the same work you are on a '99 SVT right now so I just touched these parts a day ago (front/rear sway bar endlinks, front/rear sway bar bushings, front control arms/bjs, idler pully, tensioner pully, front/rear shocks, front/rear springs, front/rear strut mounts, BAER front brake kit, stainless lines, NOS rear calipers.......)


PS, the Ford 2 bolt control arms are about $130 each shipped on ebay.

Driver side front 2 bolt LCA F8RZ-3079-BA http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-Fr...Parts_Accessories&hash=item233e7c69b0&vxp=mtr


Passenger side front 2 bolt LCA F8RZ3078BA http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-Fr...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad9eca5a6&vxp=mtr
 
I also experienced the lower ball joint rubber boot cracking in less than 10k miles on a number of different mfg's LCA's. I went the following route, since these are sealed ball joints (vs greasable ball joints), simply replace the boot before damage is done - http://energysuspension.com/products/Tie-Rod-Ball-Joint-Boots.html Now at 60k miles on the Dorman's w/o further incident of cracked lower ball joint boots!
 
^ great idea!!!!!!


So I guess if you go with the cheaper moog brand LCAs, then do what contour_r_us said and buy the energy suspension ball joint boots. Put them on right away too before install then you should be good to go.
 
Wow havent heard any issues with moog. They rock. Dorman on the other hand, avoid them like the plauge.
 
I like the idea of the replaceable bushings, I can't imagine wearing out the actual arm the way I drive.

Blu_fuz, when you say don't touch the subframe bolts, you mean don't bother replacing them ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
There are 4 bolts holding the subframe to the car, don't touch those.

The control arm bolts sometimes they are rusted so bad and actually have lost some of the overall diameter over the years. My '95 bolts were so bad I had to buy new ones. My brothers '99 SVT bolts are really nice still have the shiney zinc coating on them so I will re-use those.
 
contour_r_us said:
I also experienced the lower ball joint rubber boot cracking in less than 10k miles on a number of different mfg's LCA's. I went the following route, since these are sealed ball joints (vs greasable ball joints), simply replace the boot before damage is done - http://energysuspension.com/products/Tie-Rod-Ball-Joint-Boots.html Now at 60k miles on the Dorman's w/o further incident of cracked lower ball joint boots!
Click to expand...

OK, I provided the link for the tie rod ends - here is the link for the Prothane ball joint boots I used. I will locate my part numbers and post these. Fit was excellent for both the ES tie rod end boots and the Prothane ball joint boots. http://prothane.com/installation-product-guide/ball-joint-boots/
 
I apologize for asking for the part #, but I don't have the LCA or tie rod ends off the car so I cannot measure.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
No apology needed my friend!!! I also don't have access to my used LBJ or the outer tie rod ends at the moment and it is dark by the time I get home. These old parts are in the barn somewhere!!! Will measure them this weekend as I haven't had any luck find the measurements on the web!
 
For the tie-rods and tie rod ends, is Moog fine ? I plan on replacing the bushings as suggested.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Given that I drive like a grandma on valium, I could probably use LCA made of wet clay.

However, I would prefer something durable. Moog seems to have a good rep.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
I use to have the same opinion of Moog parts as you. My recent purchase of 'Tour front sway bar end links has been rethinking this. I went to install the grease fittings (zerk) and quickly discovered one of these had no threads cut in the zerk itself. I then installed these (got replacement) and all seemed good. Upon using the grease gun, I realized he grease was not finding it's way into the heim joint on the end link. I removed the zerk fitting only to discover that the teflon piece that is inserted between the ball and socket, had been placed in such a way that it's grease access notch was rotated, causing a blockage, thus preventing any grease from entering into the heim joint.
 
Hmmm.... well, in that case, I could go with BAT parts. Keep the Moog LCA, but use BAT for the others.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
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