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Thread: Coated vs non coated headers

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Coated vs non coated headers

    Benefits of each? Just want to get everyones opinion on them. i have a coated y pipe, and i'd like to get coated headers that match, and to help keep temps down. But, do the uncoated headers rot out?
    00 Contour SVT #1914 BLK/PT 3L Hybid, Torsen, MSDS.

    00 Contour SVT #0157 BLK/PT stripped down and parting out (15.2 @ 89, 195whp)
    95 Mystique GS:16.989@ 82.02 MPH, 38.7MPG's RIP

  2. #2
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    There is no benefit to non-coated headers, except price. They won't rot out, but they will surface rust. I would opt for ceramic or jet hot coating. It'll lower the temps a tad, and keep them looking cleaner longer, although eventually it will come off. If you really want to keep the heat down, pick up some header wrap.
    Sold- 98.5 Silver Frost #5979
    Officially a troll. 2002 Suzuka Blue Honda S2000 on Works

  3. #3

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    i've had ceramic coated headers on my car for 2-3 years. The ceramic coating scratches easily... so care is needed on install.
    Not sure; but heating them in an oven before use, may cure/harden the coating. My headers do have surface rust but are not deeply rusted.

    I have heard all sorts of horror stories about wrapping headers... cracking and snapping. This must be because the headers have not been de-stressed during manufacture.

    Also; with a mediocre coating, wrapping may cause moisture to be held against the metal causing accelerated rusting.

    My new vortec header is nickel coated and looks like chrome. I haven't used it in anger yet... i'm expecting it to corrode more slowly... G.
    ST24. LPG, ST200 cam's, RLJ1 PCM, 19lb injectors, 65mm P&P'd TB, headers, lowered, sway bars and strut braces, 300/278mm brakes, 3.51 FD tranny, Torsen, Fidanza.... Vortech in progress .

    WANTED; RLJ1 with static 2.5L Vortec settings.

  4. #4
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    Who made that block mounted remote oil filter adapter?

    Thanks.
    1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track whore), 1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track whore), 1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)

  5. #5
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    '01 F150 Supercrew-Magnaflow Exhaust, Airmax intake, 33" Terra grapplers
    '98 Satin black CSVT #3107- Portmatched 3L, Quaife lsd and more SOLD 10/28/12
    99 Tgreen/Tan CSVT Ported 3L, Koni/GC's, and more to come.

  6. #6

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    Hey Gary; that link is correct for the remote filter setup.

    Make sure you get the right union otherwise you may have to get one made like i did. I used the union from the oem water/air cooler. Had it turned down and a M20 thread cut on it.





    .....G.
    ST24. LPG, ST200 cam's, RLJ1 PCM, 19lb injectors, 65mm P&P'd TB, headers, lowered, sway bars and strut braces, 300/278mm brakes, 3.51 FD tranny, Torsen, Fidanza.... Vortech in progress .

    WANTED; RLJ1 with static 2.5L Vortec settings.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorman View Post
    Hey Gary; that link is correct for the remote filter setup.

    Make sure you get the right union otherwise you may have to get one made like i did. I used the union from the oem water/air cooler. Had it turned down and a M20 thread cut on it.

    .....G.
    Thanks. That's what I was wondering, if the thread in the block was M22-1.5 or M20-1.5. It's M20 then? I already have all the remote filter hardware and plumbing installed, but I'd like to ditch the OEM oil/water cooler and do an air/oil cooler.

    I have plenty of room under my remote filter, so I'm going to install a thermostatic sandwich plate between the remote filter stand and the filter, and run lines to a cooler from there.


    Sorry for the thread derail, coated headers are sexy, here's mine.

    1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track whore), 1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track whore), 1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by gmorrell View Post
    Thanks. That's what I was wondering, if the thread in the block was M22-1.5 or M20-1.5. It's M20 then?
    the thread in the block is M22 x 1.5 and in my oil block reducer union is M20 x 1.5. I took the union that comes with the water block... turned it round... cut off 25mm from the shoulder and had a M20 x 1.5 thread cut on it.

    In the picture the union is the wrong way round ...( the fat end goes in the engine) .... G.
    ST24. LPG, ST200 cam's, RLJ1 PCM, 19lb injectors, 65mm P&P'd TB, headers, lowered, sway bars and strut braces, 300/278mm brakes, 3.51 FD tranny, Torsen, Fidanza.... Vortech in progress .

    WANTED; RLJ1 with static 2.5L Vortec settings.

  9. #9
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    Cool, I know where to get an adapter nipple to go from M22 to M20, Bat has them.
    http://208.109.215.220/files/remotef.pdf (last page)

    I had to do something very similar when I got rid of the oil/water cooler on my SHO motor, had to cut apart the oil cooler stem and weld it back together. That was like 13 years ago and metric remote oil adapters were rare, modifying the SHO stem made me an M20 to 3/4"-16 adapter, and I could use a very available 3/4-16 adapter.

    1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track whore), 1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track whore), 1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
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    gorman, where did you mount the external air/oil cooler and did you see a noticeable drop in oil temperatures?

    Before everyone goes out and throws away the stock water/oil cooler which works just fine, you have to consider that you're not going to see any benefit with an air type cooler unless it's placed in a position that receives direct airflow. I guess you could take the foglights out, but there's no other way to do it without blocking the radiator.
    Sold- 98.5 Silver Frost #5979
    Officially a troll. 2002 Suzuka Blue Honda S2000 on Works

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