MurkyRivers 3.0 Build

So, as mentioned in the beginners classroom, I picked up a 1999 Contour SVT with rod knock. I had hoped that it was knock, but rather a stuck lifter. I started with the lifters hoping, against all odds, that it was just a lifter that was making the ungodly sound. I was wrong and when I finally pulled the oil pan there was some nice metal chunks and shavings in the pan.

Needless to say, I sourced an engine locally with 73k on the clock. It was out of an 04 Mercury Sable.

I have already pulled the 2.5 out, which I should have done some reading before hand, I pulled the wiring harness off and made my removal a hell of a lot longer than I should have. I got the engine out though, and thats all that matters lol.

I have swapped most of the components from the 2.5 to the 3.0:

3.0:
Removed Intake manifold
Removed Valve covers
Removed water pipe (b pipe?)
Removed Crank Pulley (was a huge pain in the ass)
Removed Timing Covers
Flipped the Pulse Wheel
Cut tabs for alternator bracket

I think there is more, but I cant think of what else.

2.5:
Removed the same components above and
Passenger side mount
Exhaust manifolds
Alternator bracket

I think thats it there too.

I do have to say that grinding the damn passenger mount was frustrating as hell, probably because I was using a dremel lol.

Im now at the point where I am putting all the components on the 3.0 from the 2.5. I have the wiring harness on and all of the items listed above including the exhaust manifolds. What I have left to do is mount the trans to the engine, finish porting the head for the split port, figure out a way to fill the holes for the 3.0 injectors, remove the stupid crank bushing so I can install the flywheel and clutch, then install the engine and get her running.

Im hoping to have it done tonight, but well see how it goes. Thats a hell of a lot of work for one night.

Clearly you have more reading to do.

My first question... did you use the correct tool to remove the crank pulley/damper? If not no wonder you had a major PITA on your hands and perhaps even damaged the crank.

Second before you put that trans on you do realize you have to remove the pilot bushing on the crank. If you don't your in for a world of hurt.

Third you don't need to 'fill' the injector ports. You need to buy the Bugzuki plates to cover them off. These are also used as guides to port the heads. You will want to purchase the '3L Intake Injector Plate - Full Kit' which can be found here

I strongly suggest before you do any more work on this thing you at least read through this thread. Do us all a favor and search 'hybrid swap' and 'ported 3L' on this forum and read through the threads before attempting to do anything else. Doing so will save you a lot of time (as you already found out with the harness) and money.

Good luck.

I appreciate your sentiments, but I have read and read through almost every 3l build on here. I know about the bugzuki plates, but I am porting without having to purchase the plates using the 2.5 gasket to out line where I need to port. I have also seen that JB weld has been used to fill the 3L injector holes, so the "need" to get the bugzuki plates isnt really a need at all.

No damage to the crank was done when removing the crank pulley.

If you read my original post you would see that I mentioned that I have to remove the "stupid crank bushing".

Perhaps a little background information on myself would prevent from feeling like you need to "school" me in this project.
I started my first engine/trans swap back in 07 on my 99TL converting the TL-P to a TL-S with a 6 speed manual trans, all of which were taken from a 03 CL-S 6.
I then moved onto DSM's swapping motors in my 97 GST (which was blown) with a new one
Bought a 92 Talon TSI AWD that I rebuilt the motor myself from the bottom up, then moved on to a 2.3 stroker, which I also built myself.
Also have done numerous auto to manual swaps on DSM's as well as general maintenance on all kinds of vehicles.

Im an aircraft mechanic by trade, well thats how I started in the aviation field as I am now beyond the mechanics and now in management, and Im an auto mechanic by hobby.

If you want to bring in the fact that I wasted time by removing the harness first, well thats my instinct to remove items that can get damaged/in the way when removing the engine.

Well its good to see you've been reading. Also sounds like you have a decent background to get you were you need to be. However...

JB weld... please. If you had any decent sense you'd know that is absolute garbage and may have been the stone age way of doing things but not the right way. The best way would be to weld the heads. However Bugzuki came up with a cheaper more robust alternative. Use the plates if you don't want to run the risk of grenading your engine. For $33 you shouldn't even be thinking twice about this. The JB weld to do the job is going to cost you half that anyway... don't be stupid.

You crack me up. I like how you jump to conclusions. If you read my posts thoroughly you would see that I mentioned that "I need to find a way to fill the holes for the 3.0 injectors" and that I only mentioned JB weld when you said I "need" to buy the bugzuki plates, and only to prove that the plates arent necessarily needed. Will it make it easier? yeah probably, but I dont have time to wait for shipping of the plates.

I know you have to try to prove yourself, and thats fine, I can appreciate your need to feel superior. Perhaps when the next guy comes around you could try not to be so condescending and actually give advice in a friendly matter. After all, this is a forum for enthusiasts not up-tight forum members with a sense of self entitlement

Glad to see the project moving along - I understand why you are frustrated with the cutting/grinding of the mount using a dremel :laugh:. With a cut-off wheel on a grinder it should take about 5 minutes to get the mount to fit where you need it to. I can't even imagine how hard that would be to do with a dremel .

Anywho - post some pictures up when you can.

PS, the bugzuki plates really are a great piece and come in a few days. You can always add them, but it would be really crummy to have a blob of JB weld to break loose and get stuck in your lifter/block. CSVT#49 is trying to help, I swear :yes:. He is building up a motor right now that could possibly take the title for most HP/TQ SVT contour.

Thanks for the kind words Fuz.

Murky, Fuz is right, I didn't mean to come off in the wrong way. I just hate seeing people spend their hard earned money on something only to have it all go down the drain just because of a minor oversight. Everything I've written was meant to help. All I was trying to say is that yes there may be other ways but the plates are the most efficient and economical way to get the job done, and get it done in a suitable way that won't come back to bite you in the butt. A lot of people have completed this swap and people have taken many different routes to do it. However we have all learned from everyone's misfortunes over the years and have for the most part come up with a tried and true method, if you will, to do the job. It's proven and will provide many enjoyable miles on the road. It's just not worth the time to cut a few bucks and a few days just to get the job done quicker, especially when it may cost you more time and money in the future. This is part of the reason why my build has now taken me over a year to complete. And for the record... I'm not trying to prove myself nor am I trying to come off as superior... just trying to provide some helpful tips that I've found over the years of being an active member on this site. I too started off with a $600 SVT with a blown engine back in early 2005.

That said to each his own and as I mentioned good luck with it. Also as Fuz mentioned lets see some pics!

One other thing.. to remove the pilot bushing on the crank... One easy way to do it without damaging the crank is to pack it with grease and use an old socket w/extension or similar piece (do not use a wooden dowel, it will splinter) to fit inside the bushing then using a hammer to press out the bushing with hydraulic force basically.

Good link for the how-to can be found here on the FCO forum.

#49 your last two posts are sincere and i appreciate the change in attitude (yes attitude is apparent on the internet). I just got done porting the heads, took a hell of a lot longer than I expected, but I expected a 20 min job lol.

I did try the hydraulic method to remove the crank bushing as I have done it many times before, however this bushing was not coming out. I cut it, with the dremel, and it took about 10 minutes to do.

Given the angle and size of the port that needs to be filled/covered I am going to take the advice given by both fuz and #49 and get the bugzuki plates. I couldnt find anything that would be permanent enough to work. I am going to install the engine tomorrow and get eveything bolted and ready to go for the bugzuki plates then install the intake mani and start her up (Im not sure if start up procedures should apply considering this isnt a rebuild...)

Ill get pics up soon. I havent taken many along the way as I am trying to get this accomplished quickly and greasy fingers dont make good friends with a camera.

Glad to see YOU lost some of your attitude.

Pay attention to the people who have done this swap before, they are not belittling you, they are trying to help. The fastest way to get someone NOT to help you is post another bullchit post like you did.

That is the reason more people did not want to help you. I am amazed they bothered to help after that post. You should be thanking them.

Mr. Higgins,
Thanks for your input, but I never asked for help. This wasnt a "I need help" thread. This is an informational thread about my 3.0 build. Nice try.

Bugzuki plates ordered. I only needed the 2 since I have already ported the heads. I forgot to mention that I got the trans mounted last night, bolted up the half shaft, half all the coolant lines connected and most of the wiring harness (aside from the injectors clips since I removed the LIM from the engine but left it connected to car). So finally Ill be able to get the engine in the car and push this damn car out of my garage. My TL is jealous that her home has been taken by the CSVT.

Did you retain the oil cooler? Just curious because I'm on the fence about using it or not.

I was on the fence about it as well. I decided not to use it. I have seen several others decide the same and I have owned other cars with higher performance that did not use oil coolers.

So tonight was a fairly long night, but I got a lot accomplished. Engine is installed, axles and suspension bolted back together (minus axle nut, Im going to have to get new ones), exhaust bolted back on, and finally got the car back on its feet and free of jack stands.

Left to do is:
Attach clutch line and bleed clutch
Wire up alternator and starter
reconnect vacuum lines
install accessory drive belt
finish connecting coolant lines

When the bugzuki plates come in i will be able to finish her up pretty quickly.

MurkyRiversSVT said:

I was on the fence about it as well. I decided not to use it. I have seen several others decide the same and I have owned other cars with higher performance that did not use oil coolers.

Click to expand...

I know everyone calls it an oil cooler but its more like an oil heater since its on the return side of the coolant system. This means it gets the oil up to temperature faster. I noted the difference after I disconnected the cooler breifly after adding it to my SE. the oil pressure took longer to come to normal operating pressures then with it. I sure it also helps with cooling as with the turbo on the car and the coolant staying around 200 F, the oil temp stays around 230 F and is pretty stable.

It probably does a bit of both. Warms when its cold and cools when its hot, considering the coolant stays at a steady temperature. Although, I cant really see why there would be a need to have the oil cooler unless these cars are prone to excessive internal heat.

Regarding water cooled turbos, I had several DSM (as stated earleier) all of which I removed the water lines from the turbo. I never once had an issue with a seized, over heated, or fatigues turbo. Then again I always had my timers set to 1 minute and 30 seconds to allow the oil to cycle through and cool the turbo.

Edit: Now that I think about it, i really dont think the water heats up the oil by any means. The friction caused by the rotating assemblies of the engine cause the heat for the oil. If you engine is waiting for the coolant system to heat the oil up, there is something wrong..... IMO.

This is taking entirely too long to get the damn bugzuki plates. Have everything ready to go just need the plates

you do realize what time of the year it is right?

the following quote comes to mind: "poor planning on your part doesn't constitute an emergency on my part"

just finish going over everything else on the car. once you get the place it will be quick to finish it up.