I think I might be struggling with a bad connection problem similar to the ones described here by ctmystique and RangerRuss many years ago. The driverâs Power window wonât close on my 1998 Contour Duratec automatic with 170,000 km. I paid $276 to a local auto electrical shop in Calgary to diagnose the problem and then replace the power window motor, but after about five hours and a couple of window cycles, the window stuck in full open position again, just like the original problem. The repair shop blamed bad new motor and promised to call me when they had a new one. Now, several days later, without any more examination, they say that it's likely the control module, which is no longer available, or broken wiring and they won't do anything more to fix the problem without additional costs to me.
I don't want to spend several hundred more on this. I'm hoping that someone can explain how the window circuit works and can offer good advice. Here's the story so far:
Driver's window won't close from completely open position.
All other power windows, locks, and mirrors operate normally.
I removed door panel. No obvious mechanical problem.
Up control on window causes clicking noise from one-touch relay.
I found the repair shop had cut into the wiring harness and left two bare connections. Applying 12V to the exposed connections moves window up and then reversing the polarity causes it to move down. It does that consistently, for many cycles, so it's not a problem with the motor and probably the old motor was just fine.
Iâve been trying to figure out what's happening by checking the voltages at the window switch and the one-touch relay. At one point I thought the switch or the relay must be the problem. I took them apart, buffed the contacts for the driver's window switch, the relay contacts, and the connectors, cleaned everything, and reassembled them. The system worked fine for a few up-down cycles and then started operating erratically and then stopped in the fully open position again.
The problem isn't consistent which makes me think it's related to a bad switch or relay contact or bad connections, but there is no obvious sign of burning or corrosion anywhere.. Is there another switch or relay somewhere at the regulator or motor that shuts off power at the end of the window travel? How does the polarity get switched to change the motor direction?