• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Coated vs non coated headers

95_Mystique

95_Mystique

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
3,970
Location
Middletown, Pa
Benefits of each? Just want to get everyones opinion on them. i have a coated y pipe, and i'd like to get coated headers that match, and to help keep temps down. But, do the uncoated headers rot out?
 
There is no benefit to non-coated headers, except price. They won't rot out, but they will surface rust. I would opt for ceramic or jet hot coating. It'll lower the temps a tad, and keep them looking cleaner longer, although eventually it will come off. If you really want to keep the heat down, pick up some header wrap.
 
DSCI0001.jpg
i've had ceramic coated headers on my car for 2-3 years. The ceramic coating scratches easily... so care is needed on install.
Not sure; but heating them in an oven before use, may cure/harden the coating. My headers do have surface rust but are not deeply rusted.

I have heard all sorts of horror stories about wrapping headers... cracking and snapping. This must be because the headers have not been de-stressed during manufacture.

Also; with a mediocre coating, wrapping may cause moisture to be held against the metal causing accelerated rusting.

My new vortec header is nickel coated and looks like chrome. I haven't used it in anger yet... i'm expecting it to corrode more slowly... G.
 
Hey Gary; that link is correct for the remote filter setup.

Make sure you get the right union otherwise you may have to get one made like i did. I used the union from the oem water/air cooler. Had it turned down and a M20 thread cut on it.


DSCI0029.jpg



.....G.
 
gorman said:
Hey Gary; that link is correct for the remote filter setup.

Make sure you get the right union otherwise you may have to get one made like i did. I used the union from the oem water/air cooler. Had it turned down and a M20 thread cut on it.

.....G.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's what I was wondering, if the thread in the block was M22-1.5 or M20-1.5. It's M20 then? I already have all the remote filter hardware and plumbing installed, but I'd like to ditch the OEM oil/water cooler and do an air/oil cooler.

I have plenty of room under my remote filter, so I'm going to install a thermostatic sandwich plate between the remote filter stand and the filter, and run lines to a cooler from there.


Sorry for the thread derail, coated headers are sexy, here's mine. :laugh:

 
gmorrell said:
Thanks. That's what I was wondering, if the thread in the block was M22-1.5 or M20-1.5. It's M20 then?
Click to expand...
the thread in the block is M22 x 1.5 and in my oil block reducer union is M20 x 1.5. I took the union that comes with the water block... turned it round... cut off 25mm from the shoulder and had a M20 x 1.5 thread cut on it.

In the picture the union is the wrong way round ...( the fat end goes in the engine) .... G.
 
Cool, I know where to get an adapter nipple to go from M22 to M20, Bat has them.
http://208.109.215.220/files/remotef.pdf (last page)

I had to do something very similar when I got rid of the oil/water cooler on my SHO motor, had to cut apart the oil cooler stem and weld it back together. That was like 13 years ago and metric remote oil adapters were rare, modifying the SHO stem made me an M20 to 3/4"-16 adapter, and I could use a very available 3/4-16 adapter.

 
gorman, where did you mount the external air/oil cooler and did you see a noticeable drop in oil temperatures?

Before everyone goes out and throws away the stock water/oil cooler which works just fine, you have to consider that you're not going to see any benefit with an air type cooler unless it's placed in a position that receives direct airflow. I guess you could take the foglights out, but there's no other way to do it without blocking the radiator.
 
...I guess you need to consider how much the water/oil cooler raises the coolant temps vs blocking the radiator....meh
 
here are my 2-3 year old headers. They have seen 2 wet cold winters and a couple of all too brief summers, (friggin' camera)

DSCI0029-1.jpg



start another thread for the oil cooler stufff... in duratec performance.... lots to discuss ...G.
 
I can't speak for Gorman, but on CSVT's, the lower bumper slot is considerably wider than the radiator, each side of the bumper slot has a plastic diverter to direct air from the sides of the slot to the center where the radiator resides. I plan to remove one or both of these diverters and install small flat plate oil coolers behind the slots. The idea here is to have the oil coolers in clean air, and not have them dropping their heat load into the radiator airstream. In the summer, I've seen oil temps go way beyond 250F on the highway pulling my Aluminum utility trailer, there's just too much heat being dumped into the (water) cooling system, and I don't like to see the water temps at 230 or 240F for sustained periods.

I've had plenty of experience with the small Modine-style oil/water heat exchangers that Ford uses, and they're plenty adequate for 200HP, but beyond that, or for long-term high-load situations, they just get heat saturated and you need something that can reject more heat from the oil.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top