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New (old) 3L rebuild

...what about doing the shortblock and buying some heads to get it running.

Then, if you really want to invest time and money into those ported heads, you can do them as money allows.

Can't see the sense in beating on an engine with a doubtful head.... G.
 
gorman said:
...what about doing the shortblock and buying some heads to get it running.

Then, if you really want to invest time and money into those ported heads, you can do them as money allows.

Can't see the sense in beating on an engine with a doubtful head.... G.
Click to expand...

My thought is that the heads I have are OK. The valve train has some wear is all. These heads have a nice port match job on them with the old injector valleys welded up. I'm not sure another set of heads would be any better.
 
.... the suggestion wasn't that other heads would be any better, but be ready to fit, have never been damaged and so wouldn't risk your new rods and pistons.

I understand that your ported heads are best, putting them to one side means you could prepare them thoroughly without keeping you from getting some track time.

.....G.

edit. i suspect your attachment to your ported heads is because it suits your intake, fuel rail/system, correct ?
 
The attachment to the heads is 2 fold:

1. As you guessed, they are not especially optimised, they are just port matched - so that my split port intake mates to the oval port heads.
2. At least I know the history of these heads and have disassembled and fully inspected them. If I got another set there's still a chance they could be damaged.

It is also clear that keeping the split port setup is probably a losing game since it only really helps in the low end and on the track it will always be running up high - so long term I will likely go back to a 3l intake and switch out the heads anyway.

gorman said:
.... the suggestion wasn't that other heads would be any better, but be ready to fit, have never been damaged and so wouldn't risk your new rods and pistons.

I understand that your ported heads are best, putting them to one side means you could prepare them thoroughly without keeping you from getting some track time.

.....G.

edit. i suspect your attachment to your ported heads is because it suits your intake, fuel rail/system, correct ?
Click to expand...
 
Well I provided you the information you were after in my PM to you, but when I sent that I had not read your recent developments.

Having now read what you've got I would strongly recommend just getting yourself another set of heads now and doing it right from the get go. Yes it will take time, yes it will prevent you from driving your car, but in the end it will be robust and there will be no questions. A set of heads from the u-pull it yard should only run you about $80-100. Then if you want to make them fancy add on about another $1400 for all the port & polish, valve work, etc. It's money well spent and you wouldn't have to replace the valves/springs if you didn't want too.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Well I provided you the information you were after in my PM to you, but when I sent that I had not read your recent developments.

Having now read what you've got I would strongly recommend just getting yourself another set of heads now and doing it right from the get go. Yes it will take time, yes it will prevent you from driving your car, but in the end it will be robust and there will be no questions. A set of heads from the u-pull it yard should only run you about $80-100. Then if you want to make them fancy add on about another $1400 for all the port & polish, valve work, etc. It's money well spent and you wouldn't have to replace the valves/springs if you didn't want too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response and for your input here. It is very much appreciated! And yours too gorman!

I went to the machine shop today to drop off the balancer pulley which I forgot last week, so everything should be ready early next week, except for the heads. After discussing with the machinist, he confirmed that the condition of the heads and valves is fine - not perfect but there's no risk in running them.

I looked into the copper gaskets but machinist said they are designed for race engines where the heads are pulled all the time. The differential expansion between the gasket and block material results in leaks in a short amount of time (in his experience). For the pitting (on the head), he said that he might be able to just polish it out within the bore, provided it doesn't extend all the way to the fire ring on the gasket. So in order to confirm that I need to get my head gaskets here.
 
So parts are back from machining.

IMG_20140227_084431_zps17d4f55b.jpg



Anyone care to comment on the 4 extra holes in the head gasket. From what I have read this is the right one. I ordered it based on the year of the block, and neither the heads nor the block have anything there.

a22b794a-7464-4153-8a44-e12294966180_zps0179a47c.jpg
 

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Finished cleaning up and lapping the valves over the weekend. I will be replacing 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve, but the rest were fine.
Removing carbon from exhaust valves:
Before:
IMG_20140228_220253_zpsab8528aa.jpg


After:
IMG_20140228_220813_zps15b5fa30.jpg


Lapping (this is an exhaust valve - the intake valves were mint).
Before:
IMG_20140301_193953_zpse207cc8a.jpg


After:

IMG_20140301_194427_zps4cb4b99c.jpg
 
Heywood said:
anyone care to comment on the 4 extra holes in the head gasket. From what I have read this is the right one. I ordered it based on the year of the block, and neither the heads nor the block have anything there.
Click to expand...

i've just checked my RF 3W4E block and it doesn't have any holes there either. My Apec AHG482L/R head gaskets have those holes.

Interested to know why too.

Have you made any progress with the head ? .... G.
 
The heads turned out OK. There is still a little scuffing/pitting left in 4 of the 6 cylinders, but its not bad (but not perfect either). Its not ideal, but my engine builder says its fine for a season or 2 and I trust his judgment.

I will be gapping rings this week after the kid is in bed.
 
Quicksight said:
Your valves look very clean. How important is a clean valve cause they didn't look TOO dirty.
Click to expand...

Hard to see carbon buildup, but they were fairly gunked up. I see that you are looking into a 3l portmatched build - unless there's a problem, you should just leave the valves alone.
 
I finished gapping my rings over the weekend. Anyone want to chime in on assembly lube or 20w50 for the wrist pins? I'm pretty sure assembly lube is the go. I know its oil for the rings and piston skirts.

Slowly slowly - this summer is still a chance!
 
If you have it, assembly lube. Especially if its gonna be a while before you actually start the engine.
I know how you feel, slowly. I just finished cleaning my heads, the valves were just as caked with carbon as yours. I also did some light porting and smoothing. Let the assembly begin!
Just keep at it, it will all pay off eventually.
 
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