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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

If you're interested in a custom machined LIM I have at least 1.

I was wondering what you're going to do about a tune with OBD1.

The shift rod mechanism is much superior to the cable mechanism!

I can always mess with the LIM later if I am unhappy with the runability. To loose a couple HPs over it doesn't matter to me. Thank you though.

-I don't know anything about tuning process' so I didn't know I would have a problem tuning OBD1. Is there something I need to do, or somewhere I need to go for that? I thought my only option was to get a pre-programmed chip by mail order.... :shrug:

So rod shift is good? Most SVT guys say they don't like the way it feels compared to cable.... :confused:


Hey REEBS, maybe there is a SVT for sale around by me and you could come pick it up and do my swap for me while you are in town...... pickup Bagged and Todras on your way through too......
 
I can always mess with the LIM later if I am unhappy with the runability. To loose a couple HPs over it doesn't matter to me. Thank you though.

-I don't know anything about tuning process' so I didn't know I would have a problem tuning OBD1. Is there something I need to do, or somewhere I need to go for that? I thought my only option was to get a pre-programmed chip by mail order.... :shrug:

So rod shift is good? Most SVT guys say they don't like the way it feels compared to cable.... :confused:


Hey REEBS, maybe there is a SVT for sale around by me and you could come pick it up and do my swap for me while you are in town...... pickup Bagged and Todras on your way through too......


for tuning you are going to need a chip since you have OBDI. NPG I believe can burn chips. if you leave your stock injectors the car will run. but it would be better to use some 19# injectors.

I honestly think that stock for stock the rod shifter is much better then the cable ... but as a short shifter to the cable setup and its much better
 
My guess w/b that those who are used to the cable shifter don't like the feel of the rod shifter. For certain, it is more direct as the connection is hard. I've driven both and much prefer the feel of a rod mechanism-the cable has a wimpy, soft disconnected feel to it. Also, the rod mechanism has almost zero problems compared to the cables. The cables wear, as do the connections at the transaxle. A buddy had a cable pop off while lapping during a track day-not good obviously. Parts have been discontinued for the cable mechanism.

Only problem I ever had in 12+ yrs. with the rod mechanism was a U joint freezing up. I replaced it with a Borgeson c/w rubber dust boot and it's better than it ever was.
 
for tuning you are going to need a chip since you have OBDI. NPG I believe can burn chips. if you leave your stock injectors the car will run. but it would be better to use some 19# injectors.


Are SVT injectors the 19# ones? And do the 19# injectors plug and play in a OBD1?

Will I need dyno #s and charts to send to NPG to get the correct tune burned chip?
 
Are SVT injectors the 19# ones? And do the 19# injectors plug and play in a OBD1?

Will I need dyno #s and charts to send to NPG to get the correct tune burned chip?


yes SVT injectos are 19# injector but they are different then the OBDI injectors in your 95. you might want to talk with rkneshaw (sp?) as I think he converted injectors.

you car will run with the 17# injectors but the larger 19# injectors would be better.

yes you would need some dyno plots with a/f for NPG to make up a tune, or you can find a place local to you to dyno tune the car if you choose to upgrade injectors.
 
Joe,

I am in the process of another 3L build for my car and would be interested in a joint effort on our rides. I am west of Chicago ~3hrs from Fox Lake.

Maybe I do a weekend up at your place and then you do a weekend down here at mine. Sounds like we are in very similar situations, i'm getting married in Aug, just bought a house in Feb., never have time to work on this thing. Not to mention I am doing it all solo this time around whereas I had another set of hands before.

I am planning on some powder coating services anyway and could save on shipping if I came up that way.

Oh and I could pick up a motor at LKQ in Janesville on my way.

Thoughts.
 
Should I just use the 3L plastic upper and not even worry about porting the heads?
If I were you, I would definitely forgo the porting for now. Get the plates to seal up the fuel valley in the heads, and just bolt up your 2.5L sh-t. This way you don't have to worry about tuning or injector swapping or anything like that until you have the thing running. It's not your best power option but with your lack of mechanical experience, I think you'd be smart to bolt it together & get it running as easily as possible. Once it's going, you can do things like port the heads, upgrade injectors, or tune as you desire.
 
If I were you, I would definitely forgo the porting for now. Get the plates to seal up the fuel valley in the heads, and just bolt up your 2.5L sh-t. This way you don't have to worry about tuning or injector swapping or anything like that until you have the thing running. It's not your best power option but with your lack of mechanical experience, I think you'd be smart to bolt it together & get it running as easily as possible. Once it's going, you can do things like port the heads, upgrade injectors, or tune as you desire.


Why has this never been stated before???? It makes sence to me, plus gives me more options to upgrade down the road as I am more interested in getting the car back on the road. Anyone concur?????? - Your statement just gave me a kick start to get working on this again.....
 
this has always been one of your options,you may have just overlooked it b/c of all the people doing ported 3l/2.5 combo's. personally i would've went w/a 04+3l(better cams)headers,fuel rail mod,and exper. w/uim combos later.
 
this has always been one of your options,you may have just overlooked it b/c of all the people doing ported 3l/2.5 combo's. personally i would've went w/a 04+3l(better cams)headers,fuel rail mod,and exper. w/uim combos later.

I can still do this.....?! Not sure what the fuel rail mod is though :shrug:
 
I just read some more threads about it - there is a lot of info on this site. Good thing I am at work wasting time rather than at home when I could be working on the car :)

*taking deep breaths* - I just want this to be over
 
If I were you, I would definitely forgo the porting for now. Get the plates to seal up the fuel valley in the heads, and just bolt up your 2.5L sh-t. This way you don't have to worry about tuning or injector swapping or anything like that until you have the thing running. It's not your best power option but with your lack of mechanical experience, I think you'd be smart to bolt it together & get it running as easily as possible. Once it's going, you can do things like port the heads, upgrade injectors, or tune as you desire.

Ahh what?

Are you suggesting to use the entire 3L longblock and bolt down the bugzuki plates to cover the 3L injector valley and use the se LIM ontop of unported 3L heads?!?!?
 
Are you suggesting to use the entire 3L longblock and bolt down the bugzuki plates to cover the 3L injector valley and use the se LIM ontop of unported 3L heads?!?!?
I'm sure you saw where I said that it would not be his best performance option. Given his self-proclaimed lack of mechanical experience and his desire to get it up and running. Yes, that's exactly what I'm suggesting.
 
I thought the porting of the 3L head was done to match the ports of the 2.5L LIM I am using, vs the 3L LIM that I am not using - Bugzookie plates are dual purpose #1 to transfer proper 2.5L LIM port and 2.5L valley perameters to the 3L heads and #2 to cover the original 3L injector valley on the heads so I don't need to use JB weld... :shrug: - damn, now I am confooooozed :crazy:
 
joe,since your not in this for performance(even though any setup is better than 215k 2.5L) i'd just go w/the full 3L,65mm tb,headers,fuel rail mod....and maybe play w/manifold choices later if you wish. for your skill level it'll prob. be the easiest swap. and once tuned your still looking at 180+whp and tq. you were happy w/the 5 or so from he svt tb/uim,think what 40+will do for you:laugh:
 
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