Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
My testing showed I was faster if I didn't trade so much caster for camber. You'll note that if you turn the adjuster back towards the firewall 1/8 of a turn from max negative camber, you'll lose very litte camber, but gain a lot of caster. That's where I'd go with it. Also, make two or three marks - it may only rotate, but it's rubber and doesn't fit that precisely in the tower. Two or three marks will make sure you get it a bit strighter.

I also just remembered that your softer springs won't be completely unweighted when you jack the car up like my coilovers, so adjusting it might take a little more arm strength. OTOH, it might help keep the rubber centered in the tower better. Most of my problems came when I went too high with the jack and the camber kit dropped down into the tower.



Well, the deed is done, and I know what you mean about slop. It was a little trickier getting it back to street-aligned than I thought it would be.

I also found that to turn the adjusters, I had to step lightly on the wheel for a bit to "unstick" the mount. Then it still took firm pressure.

Going to max camber also meant gaining caster. I'm not sure what your experience is with that.

Anyway, it wasn't enough. Funny how you can walk a course a million times, but when you actually get out there, you realize you might have been walking like a go-cart, but that doesn't mean your car will drive like one. The camber adjustment probably helped, but I have too many other handicaps against me for camber to solve--chief among them my poverty of seat time.

The fun part was when I finished my work assignment and needed to drive about 5 miles up the road to get lunch before my heat. Whhooo-eee! That is not an alignment I'd want to drive very far on.




Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998