I'm going to have to make a big decision soon. My car is in the shop with some serious issues. Seems one of the pistons has too much play btwn it and the cylinder wall, causing the knocking that I was hearing. On one of the other cylinder walls, there is noticeable scoring indicating the overall assembly was not as solid as I thought. This hybrid was done two years ago this month, and was bored .5mm at the time. Now I have to make the decision to try and save this block, or downgrade to a new/used stock SVT engine. I would probably sell my car if it came to that. I searched but never found a definate answer to the limitations of how far these can be bored. I know someone said 3.5, and 3.2. But how does this convert to mm's? What bore can be done on top of the .5mm that was done originally? Does it then become difficult to find pistons/rings to fit the custom bore? Or can a machine shop simply remove the sleeves and replace them along with the pistons/rings? I don't want to do a straight 3L, because I really want to keep the look of the stock SVT UIM, and the shop didn't seem too comfortable with the idea when I mentioned it. I am obviously no mechanic, but I took good care of my car. I was always cautious on long sweeping right turns and that kind of thing, so I'm very surprised to say the least. But I must take the next step to get my car back. Should the 12,000 mile warranty on a new/used SVT engine even be a consideration? I really don't want a stock SVT engine. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


99 Black SVT -3L Hybrid w/.5mm overbore, Spec clutch/flywheel, MSDS, BAT intake, K&N open, 17'Konig Tantrums, DMD, Opt. TB & Y, Powerslots, Bassani w/ magnaflow res. 96 SE MTX- "The War Wagon" "I'm in love with my car..." -Queen