** First **
When I replaced my control arms - I just undid the engine and tranny mounts then jacked up the engine. All but one of the bolts came out easily the other took a little prying. I did not have a sawsall handy. The only bolt I put in upside down was the one I had a hard time getting out (the second one back on the driver's side to be exact).

On the bolt I put in upside down, I used the stock length and had to grind off the top of the bolt to keep it from hitting the tranny. I have not had any problems.

** Second **
You guys must be really over torqueing your bolts to get them to yield like that. It is a good idea to put in new bolts, but if you are taking out bolts that are necked down - they were installed wrong. It is not because the material is faulty.

Bolts that are torqued to yield at the factory do not even show the yield when you remove them. They are taken to the point where the yield just starts. If you go any futher then that you loose all the propeties of the bolt. OEMs do not use substandard bolts on critical joints hoping for a lawsuit or recall.



1998 Contour SVT Black w/ Blue interior Torsen LSD updated shiftforks Lightened Flywheel, HD Drivelines Optimized Thottle Body 2003 3.0L engine upgrade (Soon to be)