Originally posted by djdanyloz:
Burt, I warned him about this problem.
I've actually done atleast 25+ sets for my cars and my buds and the buttons all eventually die off.

The rears go first no doubt, then the front window switches. It has something to do with the unstable current running through those because the front lock lights never die and the lights in the intruments, knobs anbd hvac never die either.

It has something to do with how when you hit say the passenger window down on the master window switch the light on the passenger single siwtch can flicker or die. The power seems unstable.

I warned him a couple of times, it's why I NEVER made a GB on them.



I had problems like this with my door handle LEDs, i found out that it was related to the power feed...and according to more knowledgeable people that i've talked to, you're right, its related to the uneven current...if the current surges for whateve reason...too much current and the LEDs heat up...heat murders LEDs.

When i tapped power for my door handle leds, i went into the switch harnesses...so the problem is likely the same.

Based on what i've experienced, it's worse with cheapo LEDs... they die fast...on the other hand, i've had one radioshack blue led in my car that just uses a voltage reducing resistor inline and has been working fine for close to 2 years now...so i suppose with better quality leds it may not be such an issue (short-term)

Anyway since i had a lot of crappy cheap LEDs what i ended up doing is using LM 7805 voltage regulators to drive all of those leds...low priced from online sources and like $1.50 from radioshack...all of the cheapo leds have been working fine for about 1.5 yrs now.

I have a set of window switches in my basement ...was planning to do the color change...haven't gotten around to it yet...what i was thinking of doing is looking at schematics for the switch connector and seeing if there is a single wire that feeds power to the LED for all the switches...it was this way on my sunroof switch...i know since i added a lighted one....so it should work for the single switches...that way you could add in a voltage regulator off of the proper wire coming out of the connector....one of these days i'll do it...

...my $.02

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