In order to not tweak the body or suspension prior to welding in the bars you MUST use a drive on lift, like most exhaust shops use (i.e. not a lift that uses arms to lift the car via the frame. Or alternatively you can use an old-school "pit".
If you don't think I know what I am talking about, go jack up the car by the front subframe and you can WATCH the entire front end of the car flex like a damn noodle. Hence when you jack up a car one wheel or side at a time you tweak/twist the body and then welding bars into the frame will "lock" it into place.
I'm sure those of you that have jacked up the car then lowered it have noticed that it'll sit higher than before until you roll out a few feet. This is because the suspension sags and as you lower it back down, either onto the ground or on ramps, it will grip either, and then the whole suspension and uni-body frame will be totally un-natural to the usual position it is driving down the road.
So if you wanna be a dipsh!t and try and do this like a cheap-ass, don't complain when the alignment goes out and it drives weird. Find an exhaust shop with a drive-on lift and have them do it for you.
By using a drive-on lift the suspension will remain in the "driving" attitude and the frame will not be tweaked, so that when the rails are welded on it'll be in the correct position. Anyone that thinks you need to preload the connectors need a slap in the face.
This is a pic of a typical drive-on lift:
Last edited by Stazi; 01/27/0603:52 PM.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
