Originally posted by Stazi:
Rick was right on the money.

My statement was made because I think you are totally nuts for
1) Buying an older motor that needed a full rebuild
2) Paying to much for that motor in the first place

Like I said and keep saying to all the other guys out there considering 3L's (most notably that giddyup guy that rebuilding a 96 Duratech! ); WHY buy an old-ass motor that needs honing, machining all new bearing etc, when you can simply buy an +02 Taurus motor with 10,000 miles for $500 and then just swap out the rod bearings and call it a day?

You don't need to hone anything, not new valves seals this, that and the other - it's a waste of money if you aren't building a motor to pump out 400hp all day long - and even still Tom has shown that a basically stock 3L motor with just rod bearings is capable of 400hp without a problem. That's what I'm getting at Trev. When you said you were buying a tired old Escape motor for $600 I told you not to do it, Hell I would've helped you get a low mileage Taurus motor shipped to your place, from LKQ here in MI for less than that, that wouldn't require a total teardown like you're doing now.

Rick charges what he charges to cover the cost of the motor/parts AND he has his labor in the thing - which is totaly justifiable.

I too charge people for 3L's - but it's just my labor. The motor and parts and mods they want done to it is on their dime...I purely offer the "wrenching" and experience for those that aren't confident to do it themselves.

Hence my initial statement that paying $900-odd dollars to rebuild an older engine was insane - when you could've spent $100-200 to put in new bearing, gasket oil pan into a younger, fresher engine and called it a day.



Stazi,

This is 100% right! Just to reiterate this point, I don't disagree with anything in it and my helping out giddyup is simply because he made his choice and after pointing this out once I wasn't going to argue any more.

As for labor on a 3L block....Why NOT?? I'd say $1500 for a basically new prepped 3L block that is 99% sure to be perfect to drop in is cheap money.
It's people like you and me who can do good work on our own and then brag about how much power we made and how cheap we did it that make people think it is "cheap" to build a motor.

However, if I built a block for someone....I'd be right up there with you and Rick.

You've got to pay to play, either in blood/sweat/tears, or in Money you earn from blood/sweat/tears.

And Fastcougar, stuff happens. There isn't a one of us who hasn't made a choice that seemed fair at the time that didn't end up biting us in the butt at least once.
I learned half of the electical/ignition/tuning stuff on this car the first time because I didn't know what was wrong at first.

My Theory: It is perfectly fine to make a mistake, but it is foolish to make the same mistake twice. Thats how we learn.
Don't give up the mechanical thing, you'll end up looking for another hobby and this one is so much fun anyway...when it works.
Besides, NO GARAGE should be that CLEAN! You've got to break her in right with oil spills, coolant, and occasional dropped parts and hammer blows.

Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black