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Originally posted by dnewma04:
Lupe,
It may not be the cause of the leak, but it can expose leaks that would not have shown up when using conventional oils. The end result is the same for those who did get leaking problems.
Before synthetic=no leak
after syn=leak
It doesn't matter what the cause is, the result is an oil leak.
I'm going to have to disagree. I'd much rather see a leak caused/shown to me by switching to synthetics, than let a leak continue to get worse by staying with dino, and then eventually having a more expensive repair from a busted gasket/bad oil supply, or in worst case scenario, a blown engine. Maybe I'm thinking down the wrong track, but switching to synthetic is a smart move any way you look at it.
BTW, switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic at 55k, no problems.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by dnewma04:
Lupe,
It may not be the cause of the leak, but it can expose leaks that would not have shown up when using conventional oils. The end result is the same for those who did get leaking problems.
Before synthetic=no leak
after syn=leak
It doesn't matter what the cause is, the result is an oil leak.
i know...thats what i was trying to explain above...the result is the same....but its not directly the cause of the problem...thats all im trying to get across.
personaly, if a leak occurs after you change synthetic, i would be glad i found it sooner rather than later....cause later it could be a lot worse then it actuall it.But thats me.
Lupe
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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Well, i just switched back to 10w-30 regular oil. Hopefully it'll at least lessen the problem. I've figured out though it only comes out the breather when I accelerate hard. I can drive however fast but as soon as i accelerate too quick, oil shoots out the breather.
"Here's a mirror, see your stupid face!"
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You have a blowby issue starting. with the conventional oil your piston ring had become coked with oil residue. the cleaning action of the synthetic cleared out the coking and freed up your piston rings resulting in a loss of compressing and rise in blowby. When you acclerate the pressures inside the combustion chambers goes up and more goes by the rings and then out of the breather. my 95 stique had 92k on it when I put in a used motor with 42k on it. I have since then been using valvoline synthetic 5w30 with no prblems. I now have 131k on it never uses a drop.
95 mystique daily driver
96 mystique parts car
95 contour 3.0L oval port swap in the works
check my classified ad
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I have no life
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I have no life
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To further elaborate on my changing to mobil1 at 83k miles: I have had no burning/loss of oil with changing. The engine also seemed to run a bit better when I changed but that could be because I went from 10w-30 to 5w-30. I also go on much longer intervals than 3k miles. The oil stays noticeably cleaner and has been scientifically proven to break down less. I also feel with as hot as the zetec runs, running synthetic helps to prolong its life. Same thing goes for the cd4e, so I run mobil1 atf in it. Of course if the engine isn't in good condition, results are not gonna be the same, even on a nearly new engine, if the piston rings didn't get broken-in correctly, then leaks/oil usage could occur.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Originally posted by dnewma04:
Lupe,
It may not be the cause of the leak, but it can expose leaks that would not have shown up when using conventional oils. The end result is the same for those who did get leaking problems.
Before synthetic=no leak
after syn=leak
It doesn't matter what the cause is, the result is an oil leak.
That's what I meant Lupe  At a mileage like mine You're better off with regular 5W30 anyways.
1998 Ford Contour GL Sport 2.5 V6 MTX in Black @ 322ks
BMW 335i = Lexus IS350 in your rearview mirror
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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This is what Mr. Haines himself has to say on the subject. believe what you want, i trust him.
Last edited by Stryker; 07/08/04 04:47 PM.
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250.
Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE*
"I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more...  "
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This post has been very entertaining.
And the winner isâ?¦ BSOELMAN for correctly diagnosing your problem.
You have excessive crankcase pressure due to faulty rings and worn bores. The fact that the leakage increases under hard acceleration proves that. As for synthetic causing any of it no wayâ?¦
It was caused by improper maintenance and the use of 20w 50 oil.
Until you get the bores honed and new rings I would recommend 5x 30 dino and an oil additive to seal the rings.
Also take it easy on the motor.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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Originally posted by AliasJerk:
You shouldnt ever switch to synthetic, a synthetic oil should ONLY be used from the start of the car, less then 10K miles. Or else it WILL leak. I Suggest you use a Synthetic BLEND, you can use that at any time, and you dont have to change as often , and it makes the engine run cooler preventing wear and making the engine last longer.
I switched to synthetic at 120k!
97 Mystquie GS - I4 ATX died at 168K
94 Pontiac Crap AM SE - 2.3L I4 5spd
2002 Mazda Protege5 - 2.0L ATX
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I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
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I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
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Originally posted by Stryker:
This is what Mr. Haines himself has to say on the subject. believe what you want, i trust him.
Terry is a pretty knowledgeable automotive guy, but as far as I know, he is not an oil expert. I would say that it would be best to try to track down someone who is a bit more informed.
"If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit"
-Mitch Hedberg
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