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Joined: Jan 2002
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Why re-deck the block? Those three holes aren't covered by the heads at all (hence the need to fill them), right? 
2001 ATX V6 Dark Shadow Grey Merc Cougar(Sport Pkg, ABS, traction control and sunroof )
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they are covered by the heads, but the heads do not have the corresponding holes. And Dan has the deck redecked, because he has his welded, so he makes sure the mating surface is still flat.
Ryan
Trollin!
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You have to remember that redecking the block lessens the piston to valve clearance and it's very close to the bare minimum as is. (Safe limit for deck or head milling is a combined total of .006" ) Also compression is raised slightly which on a hybrid is starting to play with fire if both quality octane fuel and custom chip tuning are not available. (around .2 or maybe .3 more CR for removing the limit) My advice (if you really want to lose them by running a hybrid  ) is to tap the holes and plug them with a hex plug. Loctite or JB weld on the threads.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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I mis-spoke. Instead of actually "decking" the block again to bring it all even, the shop took a machine file to the area and took the fill-in areas down to deck height. The entire surface was not ground down, only the fill spots, then measured with a gauge to determine tolerance.
A re-decking involves disassembling the entire block- This machining was done with the shortblock still assembled, and the rest of the ports sealed with tape to avoid contamination.
Dan G. and his Cougar
Forged internal (Diamond & Pauter) full 3L, "Monster" Kinger F/I cut & P&P, T3/4 60 trim .82A/R ADC turbo, SPEC Stage 3, Torsen, Greddy Profec-B SPEC II, Apex'i Timer, Lots of Gauges!
Used to have: 3.0L SVT hybrid
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
My advice (if you really want to lose them by running a hybrid ) is to tap the holes and plug them with a hex plug. Loctite or JB weld on the threads.
Its funny how you bash hybrids now, and if I pull up some posts from 2yrs ago they were the best combo to run, even though the oval ports were around then as well  
I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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Originally posted by kinger:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
My advice (if you really want to lose them by running a hybrid ) is to tap the holes and plug them with a hex plug. Loctite or JB weld on the threads.
Its funny how you bash hybrids now, and if I pull up some posts from 2yrs ago they were the best combo to run, even though the oval ports were around then as well
Well, I remember a year ago when hybrids were all the rage. But now that I have learned more, I'd likely go full 3L just because of the oiling issues.
While we're on this subject, is it realistic to think I could put the SVT cams onto the 3L head & get the benefits of both the larger valves & the longer duration of the cams? I'm guessing not, since everybody is swapping out heads & going through the bother of oil return hole issues & such.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by kinger:
Its funny how you bash hybrids now, and if I pull up some posts from 2yrs ago they were the best combo to run, even though the oval ports were around then as well
Yes but 2-3 years ago I had not personally done all that extended high rpm testing either. (nor had the flow data on stock oval port heads!) 
My original thinking was the hybrid's extra CR would be ideal to take advantage of a very high redline. That has obviously changed with all the data I have collected!
Also all the oiling information I have collected points to BADLY NEEDING the extra drains the 2.5L block does not have. That in itself it more than reason enough to not run a hybrid when upgrading to a 3L.
Hard data has shown that higher compression and higher rpm is not remotely worth it at all.
For instance MBT timing can be used with a normal compression ratio unlike a hybrid. MBT timing will produce the best overall power numbers every time.
Then there is the fact the stock tumble port (oval) heads out flow or equal well ported split ports. (which is the opposite of the manifolds btw)
Plus they are about $1000 cheaper verses paying for port work and valve installation!!! That's $1000 that can be much better spent elsewhere.
Even the basic oval port builds match the good hybrid builds which is just another thing showing a hybrid is not the right choice to make.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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I noticed QuickSteel has a maximum temp of 300 degrees F, and the two tube kind of JB Weld has a max temp of 600 degrees F. Anyone had any issues with QuickSteel on an engine block getting too hot?
I figure I'll be safe with the JBWeld, but someone might not notice that the putty version of JBWeld is also only good to 300 degrees like the quicksteel, you have to get the kind of JB Weld that comes in two tubes and you mix to be safe to 600 degrees.
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Originally posted by rkneeshaw:
I noticed QuickSteel has a maximum temp of 300 degrees F, and the two tube kind of JB Weld has a max temp of 600 degrees F. Anyone had any issues with QuickSteel on an engine block getting too hot?
I figure I'll be safe with the JBWeld, but someone might not notice that the putty version of JBWeld is also only good to 300 degrees like the quicksteel, you have to get the kind of JB Weld that comes in two tubes and you mix to be safe to 600 degrees.
about 10K on my 3L
used jb weld putty then jb weld tubes on top of it, still holding fine!
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
While we're on this subject, is it realistic to think I could put the SVT cams onto the 3L head & get the benefits of both the larger valves & the longer duration of the cams?
I think so. Isn't this what Demon's running?
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
Please share the road with cyclists.
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