Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance From Castrol...Re Syntec

And I quote:-
'In response to your inquiry,Castrol Syntec is indeed a full synthetic motor oil.Castrol decided to take advantage of exciting new developments in technology that allows the production of advanced high-performance synthetic base stocks.We found that by using advanced base stocks,we could produce synthetic oil that exceeds performance levels achieved with standard synthetic base stock......(rest is sales chat')...so what do we know about 'advanced base stock' Vs standard sythetic base stocks ????,I'm not a chemical engineer so does anyone know? This message came from Genivieve Hendrix at Castrol powercanterfeedback@cnacm.com

I've heard Castrol contains high amounts of ash...

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David Z.
Silver E1 #4808 w/stuff
http://daplace.spedia.net

I find it interesting that on the back on the bottle of Castrol Syntec, you will see in tiny letters that it is "Not for sale outside North America."

IIRC, Mobil 1 doesn't make that claim. Does Castrol have a problem marketing this oil as a "synthetic" outside North America?

Drive a 93 Probe GT in addition to my 97 Mystique 2.5 , here is a quote from the 'guru' over at the Probe forum .....
"Note on Castrol Syntec/Magnatec
o This oil is not good for engines.
o Recently reformulated and isn't a real
synth, despite what Castrol may say.
o The GTX product and RS products are fine
(but ensure RS is in 0w30/0w40 not 10w60).

Syntec/Magnatec:
o Forms ash deposits on valves
o Additive pkge sludges in engine & bottle!
o Draining sees black-flakes which are a wax
and additive coming out of suspension.

This has been seen in Mazda, Audi, BMW.
Both turbo & non-turbo cars, UK & US cars.

UK people after a cheap synth find a Motor
Factor/Charlie-Brown for Comma 5w40 Synth.
From the Motor-Factor it's £17/5litres, but
make sure the Tech knows it's 5 not 4!

Mobil1/Amsoil/Redline real-synths are fine.
Amsoil use the same base-stock as Mobil.

Finally, remember don't use Fram Oil Filters.
Their anti-drainback valve DOESN'T work in
our engines - on V6 or I4, I tested them and
Bosch/Mazda(Tennex) do work but Fram DON'T.
HLAs will be noisier with Fram/Fram-rebadged."

carbon

There was an article in Car and Driver last year about synthetics and it said one of the "major manufacturers" screwed up with their oil but wouldn't say who. They did say that it was 5W50 oil though. Does anyone know of someone other than Castrol who made that mix of synthetic?

I really fear getting involved in this discussion becuase there's so much mis-information around and people hold on to their opinions with religious fervor. So, why don't we check with the oil manufacturers themselves:

Mobil 1: http://www.mobil1.com/mobil1_racing/about/products/engineoil/index.html

Castrol SLX: http://www.castrol.com/domino/casbstr.nsf/content/AutomotiveCarsCastrolSLX

AMS Oil: http://www.amsoil.com/products/tro.html

Redline: http://www.redlineoil.com/prod_frameset.htm

SWEPCO: http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/lubeprod.htm

Also, Consumer Reports recently did one of the more definitive tests on engine oils and their determination was that ANY full SFI rated oil works well. The only real difference between regular oil and synthetic oil is synthetic oil's ability to handle higher heat loads. So, unless you are doing something that gets your oil temps about 240 degrees, ANY fully rated SFI oil will work fine in your Contour.

But, no one wants to believe that...

BTW... SWEPCO makes some of the best lubricants you can buy, according to every industry test their is, and they are pretty much the standard in the trucking industry. Unfortunately, they only sell in bulk.



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John Coffey
johncof@veriomail.com

> There was an article in Car and Driver
> last year about synthetics and it said one
> of the "major manufacturers" screwed up
> with their oil but wouldn't say who.

That was Mobil 1. They left out the additive package from a couple lots of oil. The base stock was fine. I had three cases "recalled" and they sent me six for my trouble.



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John Coffey
johncof@veriomail.com

Speaking of C&D, check out Pat Bedard's article in the Nov. issue. All about how Castrol changed the formula of their base stock to a cheaper one that still meets the loose definition of "synthetic."

John Coffey wrote:
"Also, Consumer Reports recently did one of the more definitive tests on engine oils and their determination was that
ANY full SFI rated oil works well. The only real difference between regular oil and synthetic oil is synthetic oil's ability to handle higher heat loads. So, unless you are doing something that gets your oil temps about 240 degrees, ANY fully rated SFI oil will work fine in your Contour."

Sure it works fine, but synthetic does work better. I had sludge buildup in my V6 after 25K miles of dino oil. I know because it all came out after I switched to Mobil 1.

Whenver I use Castrol GTX, it comes out slightly goopy after 3K miles, Mobil 1 always flows out just as thin as it went in.

-Lance

My father in law is the manager of the fuels and lubrications department at GM. I will see if I can get any insider info from him. He has confirmed that any SFI rated oil should work fine under any "normal" driving conditions and in stress tests done with a corvette, it has performed as well as any synthetic made even under extreme driving conditions. The extreme conditions only shorten the length of the oils life.

He also made the point that the average driver who is not real aggresive should expect to get 6-7000 miles on standard SFI approved oil. 3000 miles would only be required for people who drive like most of us probably do, hard. That being said, i still change mine every 3000 miles for piece of mind and habit, not out of necessity.