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Well, today was a really nice day. Actually the first day in almost a week without rain. On top of that, work is slow, so I stayed home to get some parts in order and get some ready to send back. So after I got done with all that, I decided to start working on a heatsheild. I know about using the trash can or mailbox even, but I wanted something a little different. I don't know why... I just did! After I finally decided that it would be easier to make a prototype out of some scrap cardboard that I had laying around. So I got to work taking measurments and writing everything down. Soon, I had something that actually looked like a heatsheild, on paper anyway. After making some adjustments, this is what I ended up with...  To see all of them, check them out here. I know that it's not perfect. I mean, it's cardboard for crying out loud!! I do plan on making at least one or two other prototypes, like this before I actually take a stab at making one in some other material. Through all this though, I am still at odds over what I should actually build this out of. My first thoughts were of aluminium, that I could paint with a coating, but I remembered someone saying that aluminium conducted too much heat or too well. So then I got to thinking of plastic. Easy enough. I have plenty of that. Some pretty tough plastic too. What kind? I have no freaking idea!! Only problem I would have though is making that nice curve on the bottom firewall side of the sheild. Yes! I searched. I even searched the archives. Everyone just seems to say, "Make your own!". And most of time, they are talking about the trash can method. Although I'm not knocking the trashcan method, I'm just wanting something a little more different and custom. Something I made. Plus... it's cheaper too!  So I pose the question... "What material would be best to make this heat sheild out of?" Flame suit zipped tight and eyes close... 
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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GROUP BUY!!!!
Seriously though - I would make the heat shield out of plexiglass with foam sealing.
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Cardboard is the way to go to develop a prototype to get the shape down.
If you have the time/resources try making one out of aluminum and one out of plastic. Drive the car with each one and take a feel to see how hot it is. Not exactly scientific, but will give you a good idea.
Keep up the good work. 
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i'm with you on that....i've used cardboard to desogn and test fit many custom sub boxes.
why not make the shield out of fiberglass? just an idea
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
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Originally posted by pole120:
why not make the shield out of fiberglass? just an idea
thats what i was going to say
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
GROUP BUY!!!!
fo sho! im definetly in!
Jim Hahn
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Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
GROUP BUY!!!!
fo sho! im definetly in!
What do you need one for. Isn't your filter in the fender?
'99 Silver svt
For sale
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Check classifieds
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Through all this though, I am still at odds over what I should actually build this out of. My first thoughts were of aluminium, that I could paint with a coating, but I remembered someone saying that aluminium conducted too much heat or too well. So then I got to thinking of plastic. Easy enough. I have plenty of that. Some pretty tough plastic too. What kind? I have no freaking idea!! Only problem I would have though is making that nice curve on the bottom firewall side of the sheild.
The DTec guys made theirs out of aluminum, of course, but they offered a ceramic coating as an option. The ceramic doesn't conduct heat and is easily painted over for an even more custom look. I have no idea where to obtain the ceramic in small quantities.
Beer is my Gatorade.
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we do ceramic coating where i work, i think it may prove to be too pricey for the benifit (for those that don't work there anyway
i'll see if i can't work something out if enough people are interested
how much would a heat shield help you anyway...just curious
Last edited by pole120; 04/15/04 03:19 AM.
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
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Wow! Thanks guys. I guess I can take this suit off. Those things sure are hot!! Plexiglass - Now I didn't even think of that and I can get my hands on plenty of that stuff. I am very familiar working with it also. I can use a heat gun to form the bottom contour... but wait... I wonder just how much heat the plexiglass can actually stand up to? Umm. Guess I will have to do some investigative work there. Aluminium - Well, I knew Dtec offered that ceramic coating, but really I'm not too familiar with that stuff. At first I thought maybe it was just a ceramic paint, but I guess it's not. Hey! I bet Hobby Lobby or somewhere like that has it. One other thing that sort of makes me want to stay away from using aluminium is the fact that I can't weld. I couldn't weld cast iron when I was in school. I would be sure to turn a nice sheet of aluminium into a puddle of molton liqiud in no time flat! And I surely wouldn't want to use JB Weld cause I think that might turn out looking tacky. I don't know... Man... More investigative work.  Fiberglass - Now there is something that I have zero experience with, but the possiblities do seem promising. Still wondering about heat though. Shouldn't be too big of an issue since I have seen fiberglass hoods before. Also, since I have it bolted down in three places, vibration shouldn't be an issue. I was planning on using some sort of rubber gromet/washer sort of thing in those places anyway. Man... Even more investigative work.  You know. This just might turn out to be one hell of a fun project. Thanks again for all the support guys. I will of course keep everyone up dated as things more along.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Aluminium - Well, I knew Dtec offered that ceramic coating, but really I'm not too familiar with that stuff. At first I thought maybe it was just a ceramic paint, but I guess it's not. Hey! I bet Hobby Lobby or somewhere like that has it.
Fiberglass - Now there is something that I have zero experience with,
1) no hobby lobby won't have it...trust me, it's hard to explaine... it is a paint(its sprayed on) but it isn't (it's a "performance coating")
2) fiberglass is cake to work with...i love the stuff.
a)go to home depot, and buy some 2" thick insulation foam
b)cut some pieces largr than you need and glue them one ontop of the other(hot glue or something...)
c)shave the block you made down to the shape you want to end up with and wrap it in ceran wrap(trust me on this)
d)lay fiberglass, let harden, remove from mold which can be re-used as many times as you please, sand if you want, paint and install.
i'm sure this sounds like a alot of work...but it can be done in just a couple hours, depending on the resin you use.
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Originally posted by pole120:
how much would a heat shield help you anyway...just curious
If you have an open-element filter (K&N, KKM, S&B) you've surely felt the heatsoak. Even some of the simpler heatshields made from cut-up Rubbermaid mailboxes can reduce intake temperatures to be much closer to ambient. DemonSVT has data on this where his heatshield, combined with some tubing to pull up air from down near the front bumper, kept his intake temps pretty much at ambient.
Beer is my Gatorade.
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what does heatsoak feel like?
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In warmer weather the car feels sluggish, it seems to not have the oomph it usually does.
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Aluminium - One other thing that sort of makes me want to stay away from using aluminium is the fact that I can't weld. I couldn't weld cast iron when I was in school. I would be sure to turn a nice sheet of aluminium into a puddle of molton liqiud in no time flat! And I surely wouldn't want to use JB Weld cause I think that might turn out looking tacky. I don't know...
No need to weld. Once you have a temaplte, you can buy flat sheets, cut them so that there will be overlapping flaps and use a rivet gun and rivets to assemble it - easy.
The only tough part is finding out about the ceramic coating. 
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Plexiglass - Now I didn't even think of that and I can get my hands on plenty of that stuff. I am very familiar working with it also. I can use a heat gun to form the bottom contour... but wait... I wonder just how much heat the plexiglass can actually stand up to? Umm. Guess I will have to do some investigative work there.
I made a shield out of plexiglass and it was super easy. It wasn't the greatest in terms of coverage (i.e. it was a "L" in shape. No side coverage, just blocked heat from the tranny). It's VERY easy to tell when the stuff is hot enough to mold. When it starts smoking...it's too hot!
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
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How about something that a cooler would be made out of (use an old cooler or something) and put in like packets or something that you can put ice into. Or, here's a thought, route some hose to the cooler type enclosure for A/C! Close off that vent ofcourse when you are using the heat.
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Originally posted by SVT ST PETE:
The only tough part is finding out about the ceramic coating.
i work with the stuff almost every night at work....tell me what you want to know...and i'll get you answers. not too tough
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
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I've seen plexiglass heatshields, before, so I presume they can take the heat.
As for aluminum, if I were to use it, I'd stick some kind of heatshield blanket to the outside of it, like the stuff racers wrap their starters and alternators with. (Not header wrap tape.) I don't think the ceramic coatings really help all that much.
Function before fashion.
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Originally posted by livinsvt:
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
GROUP BUY!!!!
fo sho! im definetly in!
What do you need one for. Isn't your filter in the fender?
yeah, but i cant pass up this heat shield! i mean look at it! Countless hours must have gone into making that!
Jim Hahn
1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04
3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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This is some great stuff!! Ideas are just boiling. Pete, I didn't think about riveting the pieces. See why I need you guys on this? Keep the ideas coming while I go read this site, Performance Coatings that I found on Google.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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i do believe the coating your thinking of is called chromex
(used on exhaust and headers...if it is...theres a slight chance i'ld be able to get you a deal on having them coated, but no promises)
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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What do ya'll think of the weapon-R aluminum heatshield ?
I wouldn't think weapon-R to be a industry leader in making
things more like APC poducts but the heatshield I've seen
on either cta or the sp website looks pretty trick. My
question- Is this heatshield ceramic coated ? theres not
much info on the site about it. its $130 from the cta or
sp web site but only $100 from nopi online. I'm to lazy
to fab a heatshield again. and my fabed heatshield &
intake pipe looked rather poor.so i removed them and rep
replaced them with the stock units. Anyone wanna make me a
good looking plexiglass heatshield. I'll pay for someone
to make it and ship it to atlanta.
What happened to the d-tec heatshield i've seen
it looks cool but i can't find a web site or anything
about or where to buy one ?
----------------
2000 silver frost svt
yoko avs es100 245-45-16
optimized throttle body
sparco shift knob
-- white glow gauges &
hvac covers on the way
-2000 csvt silver frost #1619
-magnaflow 14415
-optimized T/B & y-pipe
-superchips xgt1
-75mm proflow maf
-K&N RU-3530
-fsvt smart pump # 354Z-9H307-BC
-spec stage one, LSD
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What do ya'll think of the weapon-R aluminum heatshield ?
I wouldn't think weapon-R to be a industry leader in making
things more like APC poducts but the heatshield I've seen
on either cta or the sp website looks pretty trick. My
question- Is this heatshield ceramic coated ? theres not
much info on the site about it. its $130 from the cta or
sp web site but only $100 from nopi online. I'm to lazy
to fab a heatshield again. and my fabed heatshield &
intake pipe looked rather poor.so i removed them and rep
replaced them with the stock units. Anyone wanna make me a
good looking plexiglass heatshield. I'll pay for someone
to make it and ship it to atlanta.
What happened to the d-tec heatshield i've seen
it looks cool but i can't find a web site or anything
about or where to buy one ?
----------------
2000 silver frost svt
yoko avs es100 245-45-16
optimized throttle body
sparco shift knob
-- white glow gauges &
hvac covers on the way
-2000 csvt silver frost #1619
-magnaflow 14415
-optimized T/B & y-pipe
-superchips xgt1
-75mm proflow maf
-K&N RU-3530
-fsvt smart pump # 354Z-9H307-BC
-spec stage one, LSD
-low-tek,a/f,oil press.,volts
-B&M short shifter
-17" konig gt-r
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Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
GROUP BUY!!!!
fo sho! im definetly in!
YES PLEASE
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Originally posted by 00SVTGA:
What happened to the d-tec heatshield i've seen
it looks cool but i can't find a web site or anything
about or where to buy one ?
One word: fraud.
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
'98 "Sport" Pacific Green
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Well in the past few minutes, I have done a few searches on Google on two of the proposed mediums in which I could make this sheild out of. And I have a few questions for you guys... Plexiglass - From what I found, normal Lucite plexiglass has a "maximum service temperature" of °F 185. Now, I'm wondering if the underhood temps would actually reach that high? I might still have some reading to do, just wanted to throw that out there and see if anyone knew off hand. Aluminum - I was looking at three different grades of aluminum sheeting and found a bunch of info that just throws for a wicked loop! Sorry, I sleep in chemistry class so...  I think it would be much easier for me to actually give a link to the page I was looking at and then point out what caught my eye. www.technicalmaterials.com. I was looking at the 6th block down on the left, Thermal Cond. What the hell is this talking about. I really want to know, because I don't want to just go out and buy a simple piece of aluminum and find out that it is crap for what I will be using it for. And Pete, I've been thinking a good bit today about the use of rivets to hold the three peices together and I am really likeing it. The only thing that I can find that I might have problems with making this out of fiberglass is it's ability to take abuse. I mean, we tend to pull our air filters alot and I'm a little worried about how it might hold up to all this. Remember, I am trying to work into the design a way to bolt it down in the rear and at the fender. I'm just a little worried that, even though I will have rubber (or something like that) at each of these bolted points, would the overall structure be able to stand up to the abuse that we tend to put something like this through. Anyway, just some ponderings I was having. I hope to maybe to do some talking with some people tomorrow, but it may have to wait until next week. As for the GB idea. Guys, I know that it was first brought up as a joke, but it's really starting to scare the crap out of me. Let's get this first one made. Then we will go from there.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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based on my experience with it....i do feel that fiberglass would hold up, especially at 3 or 4 layers thick w\o any problems, but i'll just have to try it for myself at a later date.
i'ld love to help you in the r+d of this shield but i've got so much on my plate as it is(tail lights, sail panels, rear reflector, side markers...and the list goes on) that i just can't.
sorry i can't help...as much as i want to
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Phillip,
Rivet gun on Ebay
Keep in mind that people with different intake setups may have to alter the heat shield in order to make it fit.
Intake pipes result in different filter location:
- BAT intake pipe
- CTA intake pipe (different length than BAT)
- stock accordian
Using a different MAF will also results in different filter location.
Given these factors, aluminum would be the way to go so that the buyer can alter the heat shield as needed. I don't think buyers would be comfortable attempting to alter a more expensive fiberglass or plexisglass heat shield. 
Check the following out for heat coating:
Heat paint
For your own personal use, plexiglass, fiberglass, whatever of course is fine so that you can make it to fit the intake pipe, MAF and filter you are using.
HTH
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Originally posted by SVT ST PETE:
Phillip,
Keep in mind that people with different intake setups may have to alter the heat shield in order to make it fit.
Intake pipes result in different filter location:
- BAT intake pipe
- CTA intake pipe (different length than BAT)
- stock accordian
Using a different MAF will also results in different filter location.
Given these factors, aluminum would be the way to go so that the buyer can alter the heat shield as needed. I don't think buyers would be comfortable attempting to alter a more expensive fiberglass or plexisglass heat shield.
Yes, I have thought about that issue. What I figured I would do, for the ones that I could not test fit at meets, was to have people take measurements from front plate of their TB to the front plate of their MAF adaptor and alter the length of the top two pieces as needed. Of course, there would have to be test fitting and the only real world way to do that would be to send it out to the different people that have these different set-ups so they can actually install it to see how it fits. If alterations are needed, they can let me know and I can then make them.
Now that you mention the topic of larger MAF's, I'm starting to wonder how much the different sized filters will effect overall placement as well. I have a small J&R filter from BAT and I have seen some of the larger K&N's that some guys are running. I will need to take that into account as well, or at least in the back of my mind anyway.
As for working around the larger MAF's, it just struck me... All I would really need is the same size/type gasket they are using between the MAF and their adaptor. The gasket may be a mm larger all around, if that, but hole placement should be the same with the exception of the center bore. That really shouldn't pose a problem since, to create an air tight seal, I need to be able to provide a nice sealing surface between the MAF, sheild and adaptor. If the sheild had a slightly larger bore than the MAF and it's adaptor, it shouldn't pose a big issue I would think. Just as long as we got an air tight seal.
That also brings into the picture that I will need to accomidate for another gasket as well. So that will need to be added to the length of the filter too.
Originally posted by SVT ST PETE:
Check the following out for heat coating:
Heat paint
That's perfect!! Now why couldn't I find that the other night? Oh well, great job!!
Oh and pole120, it's no problem. I completely understand. The main thing I guess I need right now is, like you, more time and just you folks to keep me on track and offer support.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
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"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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I would not use Plexiglas...it will crack too easy. If you want it to be durable and clear you want to use Lexan. Lexan is bullet proof and can be cut easily, bent like bendable aluminum, s/s, or plain sheet metal. You can sheer .125" lexan and also bend it in any sheet metal break and it will not crack or chip at all. Drill, tap, screw, rivet will not matter they all will work. Plexiglas is very brittle and is best glued together. If you drill and tap it unless it is very thick (.500" and up) it will eventually crack. We use both quite a bit at work in our electronics lab for various enclosures and covers around High-Voltage. I have machined up to 4" thick Plexiglas for mechanical fixtures when metal can not be allowed...usually for non-magnetic environments. Trust me I have a good bit of experience with both.
If you use aluminum you want to use 3003-H14 or 5052-H32, these are both bendable. If you get 6061-T6 or 2024-T3 they will not bend, they will break. If you need to weld it get 6061-T6 and 2024-T3 is good for panels.
Scott
Scott
2000 Contour SVT #1464
Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb
Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb
1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car"
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2002 F150 SuperCrew
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Hey Phil-I'll buy you a whole BBQ chicken from Gibson's for a heat sheild!  Good on ya for making stuff, Phil! If you need some help with it, I'm just up the street...more or less.
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Through all this though, I am still at odds over what I should actually build this out of.
I dunno, man. I'm thinkin' you'd better make a BUNCH just like that & sell 'em on Ebay. Lookit...
1 Adjustable air inlet
2 Corregated heat insulation technology
3 Easy to repair & re-use if the car is wrecked
4 If the car burns up, you get repeat business
5 pliable bulkheads will not dent or severely damage the underside of the hood
6 Inexpensive, quick, & easy to produce
7 Low materials cost
8 Your kids could help you assemble them
9 Your kids could use them as a show & tell project for school
10 any leftovers can be used to start up the fire place.
11 Possibly lighter than carbon fiber - the new technology in automotive ricing...er, racing!
12 Lightweight means low shipping costs
13 they are their own shipping container! BONUS!!
A million dollar idea if I ever seed one.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by Cookie Monster:
Hey Phil-I'll buy you a whole BBQ chicken from Gibson's for a heat sheild!
I might take you up on that chicken mang!! Get an intake pipe and you can be one of the first to test it out with an intake pipe. Doesn't matter which one... CTA or BAT
I guess since we have just as many Zetecer's at our meets as we do Duratecer's, I might be able to get one of them to step to the plate and offer their car as test bed as well. I can't really think of any off hand though...
On the other hand... I do really like Jim's idea. Ecspecially the two points about including the kids. Free labor! Gotta love that!! I could just spray some clear coat or something else to fend off the moisture, for a short time anyway.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
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Yeah, that'd work great if we do another dyno meet. A run or two without the sheild, then a couple runs with the sheild. Both tests the hood would have to be shut though. We'll see what's in store for the Chattavegas Mobile.
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Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
Yeah, that'd work great if we do another dyno meet. A run or two without the sheild, then a couple runs with the sheild. Both tests the hood would have to be shut though. We'll see what's in store for the Chattavegas Mobile.
A heatsheild is not really something you would normally see gains from, on a dyno anyway. On the street yeah, but not a dyno.
And yes. Hector and I, at least, will be making some more runs on the dyno in Huntsville at the next meet. Arthur really hooked us up last time and said that he really looked forward to us returning. Even though most everyone had to back out, for one reason or another, he still gave three of us (Tired, from Focal Jet was there) the $10 bucks off.
I was really hoping to save up for some mods, that way I could do some testing, but since my last attempt at a baseline was foiled by a rich mixture I will have to try again the next time for the base line. That is, unless chrisilverSVT and I can hook up in memphis at a dyno and make some runs before then.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Ok dumb question here... with the stock airbox originally installed it draws air from the tubing on the side... where is the actual opening of this tubing, and is the air sucked up the tube by the engine?
What I am getting at is if you have the K&N in there and dont have a really good seal around that same opening, will there still be enough draw to pull the outside air in??
Does that make sense?
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I fabbed one up last year for my cougar
4 sided.
I also have a cool air feed that comes into the bottom of the box
The only thing I haven't done yet, is get the rubber gasket
that mates up with the hood.
I made mine first out of cardboard..
then I used Corrugated Plastic my theory was
that it would work much like a thermopane window.
I'll see if I can get some pictures.. I still have the one
piece cardboard template around.
Although the mention of Fiberglass now has me intrigued
I may wrap my existing shield.... hrmmm....
Anyone have a source for inexpensive gasket material
(sorta like a trunk gasket)
99 Cougar V6 Tourmaline Green: MTX, KKM, Borla Dual...
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i had an idea for ya man....go to autozone or wherever you go, and get a digital display temp guage like all those minivans have that tell you the outside temp....and run the sensor into your inkake tube. drive around and see what your incoming air temp is before...and after an install of your shield.
just a thought
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
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90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Originally posted by pole120:
i had an idea for ya man....go to autozone or wherever you go, and get a digital display temp guage like all those minivans have that tell you the outside temp....and run the sensor into your inkake tube. drive around and see what your incoming air temp is before...and after an install of your shield.
just a thought
I thought about that, but using some temp tape that we used to use at work alot but not anymore. It has an adhisive on the back, so it will stick to almost anything. Only problem is that it is made to read such high temps, between 250 to 450 degrees, that it might not yeild any decent results. Your idea might just work though. Thanks!
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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fiberglass will work. use epoxy over polyester resin due to polyesters lower heat range. then if your wanting to use aluminum. WHAT kind of aluminum are you wanting? t3 wont bend with your hands. t6 no way unless you weld or rivet. what thickness do you want. thin crappy scrap metal or something beefy that you can polish and make look nice. my opinion on this is .050 or .063 t3 or t6 i would rivet it too since that if done right can look pretty trick. ie steel cherry max or even certain jo.blolts. when ur done making your plans email me what youve got maybe i can make you one. im in the process of making a battery box outa aluminum with a plexi glass window on the top of it. dallasb84@yahoo.com
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Originally posted by dallasb84:
WHAT kind of aluminum are you wanting?
That was actually why I started this post. I wanted to hear comments on what materials would be best.
I really want to go with aluminium, but did not know what kind I should get or the best way to hold it all together.
Since starting this post - I still want to use alum, but still at odds over what kind to use. I will have to have three pieces, and the bottom is curved on one side, so I will have to be able to bend it by hand. At least to start the curve anyway. Ponding out the details of the curve would not be a problem.
So, with that in mind... Would still suggest .050 or .063 t6.
As for heat... I am going to apply a ceramic coating to the outside and possible just paint black with a high temp paint and clear coat it.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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I can see how to do it, in one piece...
gimme a couple days, I have to go get my template..
Probably saturday I can get it..
99 Cougar V6 Tourmaline Green: MTX, KKM, Borla Dual...
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Originally posted by Eric Ford:
I can see how to do it, in one piece...
gimme a couple days, I have to go get my template..
Probably saturday I can get it..
Including the plate in the back, so that you can secure it? I mean, how? Without folding the material over in that spot.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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here you go, highly top secret...classified information its not to scale... but the design allows for a smooth one piece appearance from the top 
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Originally posted by Eric Ford:
here you go, highly top secret...classified information
its not to scale... but the design
allows for a smooth one piece appearance from the top
Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner!
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I wanna build one now too :P anxiously awaiting to see what you use Phil. Let us all know what you use and the difficulty
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ill make one. i figure you get the rubber stuff for sealing doors and wrap it over the top to mat with the hood. t3 might bend. 0 would be easy as pie. we got a big box and pan break where i work. maybe i could find some scrap. will any one trade me one for a tranny mount i snapped? the one over the tranny connected to the left strut tower? no junk yards out here got em so i need to get hooked up. any takers? maybe i can talk to some one for a group buy. un fortunately i cant do it for you guys. but i can make one outa scrap.
dallasb84
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welcome
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Originally posted by Eric Ford:
here you go, highly top secret...classified information
its not to scale... but the design
allows for a smooth one piece appearance from the top
Hey that is cool, but... well, not what I'm shooting for. That is pretty close, if not the same basic design as the Dtec shield.
See, if you notice the one I made of cardboard, I have the curve on the bottom and firewall side of the shield. The reason I put these on there was because it allows the sheild to match the contours of the fender well and overall will allow for more air volume inside the shield. If you simply lay a square piece of metal or whatever you are using inside there and try to fit your filter in it, you will be left with very little space.
Now, this may actually be no big deal. It just made sense to me at the time. I will also be running a hose through the fender well, as many of you have seen on DemonSVT's car. This way, I can keep all that air inside cool.
But, through typing all this... we just might be able to make that design of your work Eric. I will have to mess with it some, but it very well might work. Thanks!
I hope I have the money to get a sheet of aluminium this weekend so that I can play around with this. We will just have to see.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Molding the "box" of this thing to the form of the hood and around the fender walls and sealing with some sort of weather-stripping is the only way to go here. Simply a square/rectangle box isn't going to do much good, it would have to be too small.
The fender hose idea sounds good too. The hole's there, why not use it?
Sounds like you're covering all your bases unisys12, keep up the good work! I definately can't wait to see the finished product (and make a purchase hehe)
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Quote:
its not to scale... but the design
I guess I should have said, its not exactly how mine is.
But I was showing how to make it out of one piece of metal
Well like I sorta said its a rough idea,
in my actual one, I have cut out the fender area that the bottom
"plate" sits on/near, which allows the bottom to go further down
and its matched to the curve of the fender
I also have a Cold Air Feed coming into the bottom
panel of the box.. I much rather feed it cold air, than
put my filter near the ground.
The only thing I have yet to do, is fine AFFORDABLE
Gasketing material. to mate it to the hood.
The box, as you probably have found, makes the intake
louder as well.
I might decide to go ahead and Fiberglass what I have already...
this weekend.
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Originally posted by Eric Ford:
Quote:
its not to scale... but the design
I guess I should have said, its not exactly how mine is.
But I was showing how to make it out of one piece of metal
I got exactly what you were saying. And I don't want you think that I might have been lashing out. It's all good!
Eric, taking your basic design you got there... here's what I did when making mine, to make it different.
That is what I meant in my post above still using one piece of metal. To be honest with you, I am stoked! Using one peice of material will make it much easier to make.
As for the contour on the bottom, well I figured that if you fold the sides up and place the unfinished sheild in place, you could form the base by hand and use the firewall side of the shield as a guard.
Man! I am really thinking this will work out great.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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yea, thats what mine looks like... instead of rivots, I used zip ties.. remember I used corrugated plastic. But I think I will Fiberglass it this weekend...
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I went to Lowes the other day and bought some Aluminum flashing (for roofs), very bendable. It was a 10' x 14" roll. I made a shield around my filter and it held up pretty good. The stuff didn't get hot at all today when I was driving around town. I may sandwich some insulation in between two pieces of the flashing to make it even better.
My only question is that if you don't make a perfectly sealed box around the filter, won't the filter just grab air from under the hood instead of getting outside air?
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I just took temperature measurements while driving around, with my nifty Radio Shack indoor/outdoor digital thermometer.  The engine was already very warm from previous driving: 'Inside' Heat shieldMax - 81.0º Min - 73.4º Avg - 75.6º Inside the car (1 window open)Max - 78.3º (blazing!  ) Min - 75.9º And finally, on the other side of the heat shield: 118.2º So I guess it is working...at least partially...
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Originally posted by ZuzuMonk:
My only question is that if you don't make a perfectly sealed box around the filter, won't the filter just grab air from under the hood instead of getting outside air?
Yep. Hince the reason I put the cut-outs on the end of the sheild that rests against the fender wall (where the wiring harness is). That way, I can place some foam or weather striping that will seal it off as well and not just from the top of the sheild where it meets the hood of the car.
I was looking at that rolled aluminuim and was thinking of getting some, but was shure which I should get so I figured that I would wait and learn a little more about which would be best. I found some 29 guage (IIRC) galvinized aluminum rolls for a decent price, so i might go with that. I mean, since it is going to have the ceramic coating and then paint... who cares what it looks like. Right?
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
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ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Originally posted by ZuzuMonk:
'Inside' Heat shield
Max - 81.0º
Min - 73.4º
Avg - 75.6º
Inside the car (1 window open)
Max - 78.3º (blazing! )
Min - 75.9º
And finally, on the other side of the heat shield:
118.2º
So I guess it is working...at least partially...
I wonder what the outside temp was?
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Originally posted by ZuzuMonk:
'Inside' Heat shield
Avg - 75.6º
And finally, on the other side of the heat shield:
118.2º
Wow, thats great data. When can I order? I'm amazed at the difference in temperature. Since it seems your airbox temp is nearly right on with ambient temps (at least what it is inside your car with the window open) I'd say the heatsheild is really working well.
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Originally posted by rkneeshaw:
Originally posted by ZuzuMonk:
'Inside' Heat shield
Avg - 75.6º
And finally, on the other side of the heat shield:
118.2º
Wow, thats great data. When can I order? I'm amazed at the difference in temperature. Since it seems your airbox temp is nearly right on with ambient temps (at least what it is inside your car with the window open) I'd say the heatsheild is really working well.
I was suppose to build one this past weekend, but... well I think everyone that has family knows that sometimes things don't always workout as you might have planed when it comes to money, so I wont go there. But I should be able to spring the cash for the materials needed this weekend. I will not be able to get my hands on that ceramic coating for another week though.
I really can't wait to see the difference the ceramic coating along with paint might have. Maybe not a lot, but since these numbers are pretty close to ambiant, anything that can put you even closer would be great.
Oh... and I might just have a lot more time on my hands in the next few weeks, so making these might not be a problem for me after all. If I can just get the materials and get one made before all hell breaks loose, I shouldn't have a problem. I will let everyone know.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Shoot man, even if you didn't do anything but sell use a cardboard template, I'd buy one :P Keep up the good work. I'm glad someone finally tackled this (besides DTEC)
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Originally posted by rkneeshaw:
Shoot man, even if you didn't do anything but sell use a cardboard template, I'd buy one :P Keep up the good work. I'm glad someone finally tackled this (besides DTEC)
Or maybe a blueprint I am very interested too
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Originally posted by unisys12:
I wonder what the outside temp was?
It was in the low 70's yesterday. Just be careful when working with that thin sheet aluminum. It will not hesitate to cut you.
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and i will not hesitate to buy one
98 Silver V6 SE Sport
K&N w/ heat sheild, Elky mesh, fog-light mod, knauberized
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<<~~ Anxiously waiting for more information regarding the heat shield. I was very interested in making my own but first mods first (TB optimization) Keep it up. Many of us are waiting to see the results of this custom job! ..or maybe just me?
-1998.5 Contour SE V6 ATX.
PM me to tell me of a welder that can craft me a modified Y pipe in the Los Angeles area! OR I may be willing to buy a 3 flange modified Y.
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I will get some aluminumnumnumnum this weekend or Friday afternoon and start work on it this weekend. I will be getting a piece big enough to were if I screw something up I will be able to start over. If I don't, then I will be able to make a few more and possible send out to some that might want to test fit it on their car so that I can see what needs to be changed for their set-up or if they just want to check it out. We will hope for the latter. So far, here is what I know... It will be one piece, folded at the edges. I will still have a plate in the rear so that it can be bolted down to the tranny mount where the old intake box used to be. It will have the cut-outs for the wiring harness and all edges that will meet outside air will have weather striping around it or if I can find something else better I will use that. The stripping will of course be held to the sheild with an adhesive, so you wont have to worry about it falling off or anything like that. Also, I want to put some like some foam strips on the bottom of the sheild. That way it will not rub metal to metal and possibly damage the fender wall because of the paint that would be removed. I know alot you guess live in areas where you use salt in more ways then just the dinner table, so that is something that I have been thinking about. There is another way that I could make it, which might allow it to be closer to the original templete I made. So, I might have to make two and see which is easier to make. But then again, I want to make this like I want it and I want it to function as such - work, easy to install & work with the fewest problems down the road. So, basically, which ever meets these three requirments I will deem the best and will be the one I make. After a few are made and others are able to get there hands on them, feedback will be crucial in making this a true CEG item. As for making one for everyone else... Right now, the templete I made is for a ATX Duratec w/o intake pipe. It would be a little different for each of the versions out there, not to mention the different lengths of the intake pipes for the Duratecs and I'm not sure about the intake pipes for the Zetecs. Also, I am concered about the mounting locations at the rear. I'm wondering if the SVT's stock intake mounted to the tranny mount differently then mine. And since I won't see another SVT in who knows when, well I will not know how to compensate for that. I know it seems like a lot, but the idea of a piece of metal flapping around inside the engine bay is just not something that I like to think about and I want to be able to secure it. I will not be happy until I see that it can be secured well enough with one bolt at the front, but I think that the two in the rear (on the tranny mount) and the one in the front (ground wire) will be plenty enough to satisfy me. Thanks for all the support guys and I will keep everyone updated as this develops over the weekend. P.S. Ya know! I just thought about what could be done if the battery was relocted. Man! One project at a time.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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I took temp measurements using my OBD II scanner. My IAT was 131 degrees w/o shield. 73 degrees with. And I have 2 CEG'ers to vouch for that.
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IIRC, every 14 degrees lower intake temp yeilds 1hp? So that's almost 4hp?
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Quote:
IIRC, every 14 degrees lower intake temp yeilds 1hp? So that's almost 4hp?
Every 11 degrees lower supposedly yields 1% hp of engine output. 1% hp on an SVT is 2 hp.....131----->73 = 58 degrees = ~10hp. 
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Originally posted by JonnySVT:
Quote:
IIRC, every 14 degrees lower intake temp yeilds 1hp? So that's almost 4hp?
Every 11 degrees lower supposedly yields 1% hp of engine output. 1% hp on an SVT is 2 hp.....131----->73 = 58 degrees = ~10hp.
Well that sounds even better to me!
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New CEG\'er
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So.. theoretically, a compressed air cylinder, running through some metal piping coiled round the air intake (loosely so as not to obstruct flow) When cracked open (causing the pipes to ice up) would give you a power boost of possibly 10-20 HP. All I need now is to connect some copper piping to some 300bar dive cylinders.
--------------------------
'99 Mondeo ST24
Nice quiet Milltek cat-back exhaust
Noisy K&N 57i
Wanted: 3L block and a ST200 /
SVT to pull bits from
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unisys12, watch that aluminum around those battery terminals... if you know what I mean...
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Originally posted by ZuzuMonk:
unisys12, watch that aluminum around those battery terminals... if you know what I mean...
Why?
J/K
got my aluminum today and hope to have it marked out tonight and ready for the first cuts tomorrow afternoon.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Originally posted by marv:
So.. theoretically, a compressed air cylinder, running through some metal piping coiled round the air intake
(loosely so as not to obstruct flow) When cracked open
(causing the pipes to ice up) would give you a power boost
of possibly 10-20 HP.
All I need now is to connect some copper piping to some 300bar dive cylinders.
Hell, just run your A/C lines into the heatsheild and you would have a steady supply of cold air.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Hell, just run your A/C lines into the heatsheild and you would have a steady supply of cold air.
http://www.cheresources.com/htpipes.shtml
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
'98 "Sport" Pacific Green
'98 E0 SVT Silver Frost
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Originally posted by unisys12:
got my aluminum today and hope to have it marked out tonight and ready for the first cuts tomorrow afternoon.
I have cut out the first two pieces, which would make up the first sheild and I would have to say that, even thougn I am not done, it would be easier for me to make mine in three pieces rather than one.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Well I finished my first attempt at this sheild and I'm not very happy with how it all went together. First off, I will say that I have ZERO experience at doing stuff like this, so I figure that has a bit to do with it. Second, to save money, I used black metal screws instead of rivets. Besides saving money, I can easily and cheaply take it back apart to reuse a piece or modify a piece if need be. Now, for a few notes on things I didn't like... Its not very ridged at all. I'm thinking that this material will be fine for the stage of R&D that I am at right now, but I'm not sure if I would want to make a sheild for someone else with it. It was pretty easy to bend the bottom piece somewhat into shape. From there, I was able to use the cut made on the firewall side to mold it just right. The main reason I am worried about the stiffness of this material is because, what happens after I apply the cermaic coating, paint and clear coat and someone accidentally bumped it while installing it? The coating might crack or something like that. I know that we tend to remove our air filters or intakes on normal basis, so that really worries me. To combat this, I could use a thicker material for the sides and this thinner material for the bottom. I could apply some thin A/C vent tape to the bottom piece, either to the inside or outside, to make up for the thermal differences between the thinner and thicker materials. And the rear tab, that acts as a mounting point... Man. I really like this idea and want to stick with it, but it seems to complicate the whole thing so much, that it might be better to scrape it for right now and just concentrate on getting the rest of the unit to a buildable/reproducable state. Then, worry about it as time permits. And speaking of time permitting... Not to bum anyone out or anything like that, but it turns out that I will have a lot more free time on my hands for the next week or two. Turns out that friday, I got the call to say I was laid off from work after 5 and a half years with the company. So I will be able to put a little more time into this, even if it is at night.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Hey, sorry to hear about the job man. I hope you get back on the job soon.... Anyways, thanks for all the R&D that you're doing on this pet project of yours. We "regular guys" especially thank you. Yeah, be sure and keep us updated on your progress. BTW, that was a crappy job you did caoching the Lakers today! 
-Chuck Dienzo
Black 98.5 E1 SVT
#5022 of 6535
Born on March 16, 1998
"If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason."
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Phil, sorry to hear about your job. I hope you've been sending out resumes & making connections. I guess now is the time to start checking Huntsville & pionts south/east for another spot. What is it you'd like to do for a living? Maybe we've got something in Florida for you & the Mrs. I'll help out any way I can... By the way, those girls ready to help with your manufacturing of the Jackson intake? Get that thing done, could be your first cash cow for CEG, FCO, & NECO.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Whirling dervish of FFOG.
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I read something a while ago about the new Lightnings having a little something like that. It uses the A/C to cool some liquid, then when you push a button it dumps it into the intercooler for a power boost. Interesting.
The Spickle
New Car: Infra Red '04 FSVT
Former Car: Black '98 CSVT, #3137/6535 "The Unluckiest car.. ever"
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Sounds cool, Phil! You gonna make me one, too, right? I can be your test mule, too!
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Yeah I'll make you one. Looks like you are going to become CEG's Offical Test Mule.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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/pouts
aw, I wanna be a test mule too!
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Originally posted by rkneeshaw:
/pouts
aw, I wanna be a test mule too!
We will see. Chattaboy and you already have an intake setup that is similar, plus it is pretty much the same as mine. Just different filters.
I will really need someone that has a CTA and BAT intake pipe. That way I will be able to find out how much I will need to adjust the length.
Oh yeah! I just got finished with cutting out and shaping 4 new pieces and I think I am really going to like this one. I don't want to use the screws on this one, rather I would like to use the aluminum rivets. I was not able to get them last weekend, nor does it look like I will be able to get them this weekend. So, it may take me sometime getting the rivet gun and rivets. I know there cheap, but... I'm out of a job now... remember. Just be patient with me guys. I'm sure everyone will be really happy with this prototype.
I was going to take some pictures of the pieces I cut and pounded on today, but it seems that the batteries in the digicam are dead, so... I will have to look around the house for some more.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Sweet dude, keep up the good work!
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PM me with your addy & requirements. I'll ship you a rivet gun & rivets. I'd like to see how your project turns out, &, when I finally get to race him, Eric will need all the advantages he can get to beat me on the track. Really.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Ok, I found some batteries for the camera. Now, bear in mind that the light is not the best in the world, so they did not turn out just really great and I hope to take some better ones tomorrow, but I just wanted to be sure to let you guys know that I am really working on this thing...  This should give you a decent idea of the overall angels I am going for. This is the firewall side of the sheild.  Another shot of the same piece. I guess you get the idea by now.  This gives you an idea of about how wide the folds are. What size rivets do you guys think I should use here? I was thinking of using 3/16, that way if they are too small I could easily go up to 5/16 if need be.  Here's another shot of what inner seems will look like. No! That is not rust you see there. I spilt a diet coke...   Just a simple shot of the back. Sorry again about the poor picture quality.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Well I guess the logical question here is whether the box design is really the best idea..? The purpose of these filters is to snag more air, but if we stick it in a box just like the stock filter, isn't it still grabbing the same amount of air?
Unisys, how's it coming along?
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I don't think so. If you look at the stock airbox for both the SVT and non-SVT, the air inlet is rather small compared to the rest of the box. IIRC the hole is only a couple inches in diameter at the most. Its almost literaly the definition of a bottleneck. I would think that having the K&N or similar filter surrounded by a box is still allowing more CFMs than that small inlet. Plus, I would think that having temps closer to ambient would negate any CFM restriction created by the box. Call it a compromise.
If you're worried about enough air getting to the filter, do what Demon did and run some kind or hose from the fender up to the filter.
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
'98 "Sport" Pacific Green
'98 E0 SVT Silver Frost
Pictures
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As it stands right now, I don't think I am getting enough air to my filter. I am using an aluminum enclosement much like Unisys is making; it is rough though. I have been seriously considering the hose idea.
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Monk, put a hose in there for sure. Not only will you get a little more air, but you will also insure a nice supply of cooler air being brought into the air box. As for the prototypes i have built so far here's a few pictures of the one I made today and the one I made last week. I haven't cut out the inlet for the MAF yet, so I don't have pictures of it installed yet. I plan to do that in a little while.    Of course these are held together with screws, which just makes it easy for me to take the different pieces apart to make adjustments to them as needed. They will be replaced with rivets of course, but for right now the screws are working ok.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Got installed today and can you believe I screwed up on the width and was tad off on the length, so it is too freaking big!!??  Anyway, here's some shots of it in the car...   You can see here how the sides are bowing in... It was a real pain getting it in as well. You may also notice that the filter is off center. Yeah! Yeah! Funny thing is that I placed the box inside the engine bay and got it seated, then I just traced around the outter edge of the MAF to find its location and that is where it ended up. Oh well, I will cut another back piece and move it over about an inch, if I can. I am going to take about a half inch off on the right side, to start, and refit it.  It's not pretty, but it is a work in progress.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Looking good, I didn't mate mine up to the wires on the fender like you did, I'm not sure how the 'tours are, but are you blocking the factory air inlet?(its tough to see from the pictures)
I recommend a second air feed from the bottom,
I will be making some sort of change to mine,
one being a screen at the incoming end of the hose,
and an air deflector inside the box.
99 Cougar V6 Tourmaline Green: MTX, KKM, Borla Dual...
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They are looking good. I got the bigger K&N filter, so it is more of a pain to work with. I did notice that, much like mine, you have a gap on the back piece (under the filter where the bottom piece meets the back piece). I also don't have to worry about those cables/wires on the side of the car like you do...come to think of it, I'm gonna have to go see where mine are! What kind of aluminum is that? It's thicker than the flashing that I got...have you tested to see how well it is blocking heat flow?
Keep up the good work!
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Originally posted by Eric Ford:
Looking good, I didn't mate mine up to the wires on the fender like you did, I'm not sure how the 'tours are, but are you blocking the factory air inlet?(its tough to see from the pictures)
I recommend a second air feed from the bottom,
Nope, I'm not completely blocking the opening. I am probably only covering a quarter of it, but since I am going to install a hose that will run through there and supply fresh air, I'm not too worried about it right now.
Originally posted by ZuZuMonk:
I got the bigger K&N filter, so it is more of a pain to work with. I did notice that, much like mine, you have a gap on the back piece (under the filter where the bottom piece meets the back piece).
As for the K&N filter, yeah I am really wondering about that. I guess I should have wrote down the measurements of the 3530 when someone posted them last week, just to make sure everything will be alright.
Originally posted by ZuZuMonk:
What kind of aluminum is that? It's thicker than the flashing that I got...have you tested to see how well it is blocking heat flow?
LOL! I'm not real sure. All I know is that it was the last roll of 20" inch wide flashing that Home Depot had. I checked their website, but can't seem to find it, but I'm sure I am going to need more, so when I go back to get some more I will let you know.
As for checking its effects at blocking heat... no not really. After I installed it, I didn't feel like taking it back out and had to make run to the store. I will say that you can actually hear a difference in the intake. Really sounds different, but I don't guess anyone else would notice. Reason I wasn't to worried about it blocking heat is because it's not sealed up. Notice in the pictures that there's no weather stripping on any of the edges, so there is still plenty of hot air getting in there. I did pop the hood and touched the walls of the sheild and... it was HOT!! Which stands to reason really, since I don't have the ceramic coating on there either. So right now, I would probably notice that the temps have actually rose some since installing the sheild because my filter is sitting inside a big aluminum stock pot and my filter is the meat in the soup. Not a good thing!
That space at the rear, that you mentioned. I know what your talking about. Since the rolls don't come wide enough to cut this out as one big piece, so that you could just cut it out and fold everything, that does leave that gap back there. So what I did, later this afternoon, was to cut a new bottom piece, but this time I made it about 1 inch longer. That way, I could create a fold in the rear that is held in place with the two bottom fasterners that was already there holding the rear plate in place. I will take some pics of what I'm talking about tomorrow. I will also try to take some pics of the intake opening in the fender well too.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Well, I have pretty much worked on this for the better part of this morning. Only taking a few breaks now and again to check the boards. I think I have made a lot of progress, in the right direction, so here's where i am right now. Recut length and I cut off what seems to be too much for mine, but it might just work out great for someone with an intake pipe such as from CTA or BAT. That way I can see how I need to adjust the overall length for these. As for mine, it measures out to about 11.25 - 11.5 inches from the back of the TB to the gasket between the MAF and MAF Adaptor. As for how to measure it, this is how I did mine...  I got everything measure out for bolt, located in the fender well, to secure the front part of the sheild. I do have problem with the ground wire running from the tranny case to the fender not being long enough, so I'm thinking i could go in two directions to correct this... 1) Cut a hole just large enough for the terminal to fit through and fill the hole with a rubber grommet thick enough seal the gap around the wire. 2) Relocate the ground wire. #2 might be the most logical, but I'm just worried to if someone was to install this thing and not relocate this ground wire, they will blame me for their tranny going south on them within a year.  Here's, the area I am talking about...  That small black wire you see in there right now is not the wire I am talking about. That is the ground wire I have run for the LED's I have in my headlights. Oh yeah, someone asked about covering up the intake hole located in the fender...  *Note* I don't know how long these images will stay up because I am linking to them from my free ripway account, which only allows 5 MB of transfer a day. The others are linked to my Cardomain site, but since last night I have not been able to given go to the Cardomain homepage without picking up some crazy Adware crap to total takes over my PC, so.... I wont be going back there anytime soon. I guess that's what I get for taking advantage of a good thing.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Well, I took a test drive this afternoon and I must say that I am very happy with how the car performed. Very happy to be honest.
Notice the name change of the thread, this is because of the adjustments that I made to the size of the sheild and the addition of some foam (more on that in a second).
Ok, well I still had the sheild fitted from this morning and since I had to go make a run to the store soon, I might as well find something that would work well as an insulator around the edges. Since being laid off from my job, I had several none-working SCSI harddrives laying around and I noticed the foam inside the box. Believe it or not, it fit perfectly around the sheild with only a few minor altercations. Once fitted, it worked perfectly. Well, as good as I would hope anyway. I really did not expect much, I just wanted to see what would happen.
Well, after a nice 32 mile (round trip) ride to the store, I got out and checked the filter. by touching it, and it was COLD!! The sheild was hot as hell, but the filter was cold or at least very close to ambient temp. I didn't get it though, because I left the car running while I was in the store, so there was some serious heat built up in that sheild! Leaving the town I was in, there's 5 four way stops and my high speed fans were on the whole time. so I know there was some serious heat floating around it, at least.
Well, all this is not very scientific, but I could actually feel a difference in how the car responded after after driving in the slower areas, where heat can build up. I am going to ask around to some of the neighbors and see if they have a digital cooking themomator. That way I will have a pretty accurate reading of where everything is, temp wise.
I want everyone to know that I'm not trying to pump this sheild up or anything, because it is far from being a finished product. I still have some pretty serious changes to make. I'm just so stoked at the fact that I actually made something like this and it actually works! Remember, at the beignning of this thread I said that I have never done anything like this, so... I'm pretty happy right now. Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this project.
So the next steps is to get some material and get a few of these out to a few folks and see what they think. Order some of the ceramic coating and apply it to one and take some readings after that. Make whatever adjustments are needed based on the feedback I get from the test mules and I guess it's on from there.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Well, after a nice 32 mile (round trip) ride to the store, I got out and checked the filter. by touching it, and it was COLD!! The sheild was hot as hell, but the filter was cold or at least very close to ambient temp.
Sweet! Nice work.
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Get some thermal shielding on that box & you should have a winner!
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Well, I debated on starting a new thread, but felt it would be best to keep all this stuff together. So, here we go...
Got an update of this little project!
A few small changes to point out... You might notice in the straight frontal shot that the concave of the underside of the sheild continues to the side. I found that by trying to flaten it only put stress on the metal and caused all sorts of weird problems. I centerd the MAF, but I need to bring it up about an inch so that it can align better with the TB. And finally, the rivets! Thanks for the gift Jim. The 3/16 aluminum rivets worked out just perfect. They actually worked alot better than what I thought they would. I figured I would have to use a larger size to really hold everything together, but these really added a lot of stiffness to the overall piece. Thanks again.
Oh yeah, and don't let me forget to thank hetfield for hosting my images.
And I would like to throw an idea out to you guys. I talked to someone the other night that said he knew someone local (to me) that did powder coating. He mentioned that I might be better off getting some Hotcoat Powder from Eastwood and get this guy to paint them for me. Personally, I think it would look great, but the price of the services and powder would outway to worth of the product. If you know what I mean. What do you guys think?
Anyway, that's about all I have right now. I guess I need to make one more so that I can send it to Eric and let him test it out. See if he would change anything. Then I need to let someone with a BAT pipe and then someone with a CTA pipe test fit it. Since noone ever gave me any measurements, I guess that will be the only way I will find out. So, thoughts and suggestions so far. What would you change, do differently, or whatever.
And again... A big thank you goes out to everyone that has showen support in this project and given me encouragement. With every one I make, I'm learning more and getting better. Remember, I have never done anything like this before, so I have really learned a lot up to this point!
Last edited by unisys12; 05/13/04 03:09 PM.
Phillip Jackson
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"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Originally posted by unisys12:
And I would like to throw an idea out to you guys. I talked to someone the other night that said he knew someone local (to me) that did powder coating. He mentioned that I might be better off getting some Hotcoat Powder from Eastwood and get this guy to paint them for me. Personally, I think it would look great, but the price of the services and powder would outway to worth of the product. If you know what I mean. What do you guys think?
Well, I show my car in Show&Shine competitions, so having a nice powdercoat that will at least closely match any other powdercoating in the engine bay would be a plus. Not everyone is that anal about appearances, though. I still think any kind of low-conductive coating will help insulate the inside of the shield. If I were in your shoes I'd definitely take the offer.
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
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Originally posted by hetfield:
Originally posted by unisys12:
And I would like to throw an idea out to you guys. I talked to someone the other night that said he knew someone local (to me) that did powder coating. He mentioned that I might be better off getting some Hotcoat Powder from Eastwood and get this guy to paint them for me. Personally, I think it would look great, but the price of the services and powder would outway to worth of the product. If you know what I mean. What do you guys think?
Well, I show my car in Show&Shine competitions, so having a nice powdercoat that will at least closely match any other powdercoating in the engine bay would be a plus. Not everyone is that anal about appearances, though. I still think any kind of low-conductive coating will help insulate the inside of the shield. If I were in your shoes I'd definitely take the offer.
Well, I will give this guy the dementions and see what we can come up with. Only problem we might run into with getting this stuff from Eastwood is that they only have a few colors. Black, I think two shades of grey and one that is suppose to be silver. I might have to do some more research, but that is what they have in High Temp coatings.
Thanks for the input.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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For what it's worth, I believe that those "high temp" coatings are designed only to be resistant to high temperatures, not actually thermally shield the box.
Whirling dervish of FFOG.
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Awright Phil! But check this mangh, I cut the corners off my MAF so the filter attaches directly to it. Hmmmm, methinks it'll still attach more-or-less the same; just cut the opening to the MAF a little small so I can trim it back just enough to stay snug. Testing stuff is fun! "Aw no officer, I wasn't going 75 in a 35 mountain road, I was testin CRZYDRVR's new rear strut tower bar! And those skid marks around the corners are my test results. Aw, I gotta go back to jail? Aw, ok. Mind if I drive?  Ok, guess not. " <-that's how well I test products!! And Jim - boy howdy if you ain't talkin smack 'bout me! I'll show you wut fer!!  Dez youn wipersnappers.... 
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Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
And Jim - boy howdy if you ain't talkin smack 'bout me! I'll show you wut fer!! Dez youn wipersnappers....
GEEZ!! I was wondering if you'd ever notice that subtle dig. You old folks, your minds just ain't as sharp as they oughta be.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by weargle:
For what it's worth, I believe that those "high temp" coatings are designed only to be resistant to high temperatures, not actually thermally shield the box.
Oh yeah, I agree. But if the powder coating can be put on top of the ceramic, then we would be in business. I'm not sure if it can though. I will have to do some reading on powder coating prep I guess. More learning stuff to do!!
Eric, I looked on your cardomain site and maybe I was too busy laughing at all that stuff you got on there, so I might have missed a shot of your intake set-up. If you got one, shot it to me in a PM and let me see what your talking about if you can.
I should change my sig to, "Today, I visited Chattavegas's Cardomain site and now my life will never be the same! " Man you got some funny stuff on there!!
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Yeah, most of it is just hosted on the site. I've got a lot of stuff I save for rainy days that no one else can see. Ya know, I'm not sure if I have any pics of my intake set up. Basically, take the stock MAF and cut off the four screws in the four corners so it's a round tube, more or less. Then tighten the K&N 3530 straight to it. No muss, no fuss. Wait, slight muss, no MAF adapter. And Jim - oooooo I'll get you yet!
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Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
And Jim - oooooo I'll get you yet!
You already did with your sig. You mean, mean man!
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
Basically, take the stock MAF and cut off the four screws in the four corners so it's a round tube, more or less. Then tighten the K&N 3530 straight to it. No muss, no fuss. Wait, slight muss, no MAF adapter.
I have to be honest... I have no idea how this thing would attach to your intake then. It's held in place mostly by the four MAF nuts and bolts, so with no rear attaching point, I don't see how it could work on your car.
Now, with my original design that I did, I had the bottom piece extend out to the tranny mount. Once there, it was bolted down using the two bolts that went there. I might be able to work something out using that design, but I just don't see how this one would fit.
Phillip Jackson
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"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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If it'll help, I can grab some pictures of my SHO Shop heatshield to show how they do it.
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
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I like your heatshield unisys but for lazy folks ya'll can do what I do. I just get some foam board at the crafts store and cut pieces and make a heat shield. Takes maybe 5 minutes and it works pretty darn good. My shield actually extends from front of car to back. Using one piece then battery, then more foam, then filter/pipe, then foam, then strut tower. Only downside is the foam board gets soft after a few months and you gotta do it all over again, but like I said it only takes 5 minutes and it blocks heat probably better than aluminum. Ooo and it looks like crap.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
Basically, take the stock MAF and cut off the four screws in the four corners so it's a round tube, more or less. Then tighten the K&N 3530 straight to it. No muss, no fuss. Wait, slight muss, no MAF adapter.
I have to be honest... I have no idea how this thing would attach to your intake then. It's held in place mostly by the four MAF nuts and bolts, so with no rear attaching point, I don't see how it could work on your car.
Now, with my original design that I did, I had the bottom piece extend out to the tranny mount. Once there, it was bolted down using the two bolts that went there. I might be able to work something out using that design, but I just don't see how this one would fit.
Then I'll make it work! Just call me MacGuyver!!!
Jim!
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I have a BAT pipe and a BAT snorkle filter. Tell me what measurments you need.
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Originally posted by KaptonContour:
I have a BAT pipe and a BAT snorkle filter. Tell me what
measurments you need.
Basically, I need the measurement from the TB to point where the MAF and MAF adaptor meets. Just measure from the point i have in the picture above to the point where the MAF and MAF adaptor meets and I should be good.
Thanks a ton!
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Hey Phil, sorry I'm a bum, but here's how I have my filter attached directly to the MAF:  And some lil touch-ups: 
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Um... You got a red-eye reduction setting for that camera?
And what's with the pink oil cap? How many HP for that?
(snicker, snicker)
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Yo, what happened to our happy little heat sheild maker? Is there an update on this project? I'd still be very interested, its friggin hot out here lately, a heat sheild would pwn.
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Yeah Phil, what's the 911?
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( taking notes for business study... 'market ripening' )
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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yeah, living in Florida, i have noticed a huge difference in power during the summer from just having an open element k&n. i think the humidity plays a huge role too, i gotta get my hands on some sort of heat-shield.
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Me too! 90 degrees yesterday, stuck in traffic on the way home with the A/C on, my car felt like it was missing 50 HP I need to do something about it!
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Originally posted by akrump47:
Me too! 90 degrees yesterday, stuck in traffic on the way home with the A/C on, my car felt like it was missing 50 HP I need to do something about it!
OK Phil, get building!! Build one type for the longer intake setup & let the guys adjust their intake couplings to compensate. There should be some room for adjustment in the ones I've seen.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by rkneeshaw:
Do you mean 411? lol
Umm.... ....yeah.
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Originally posted by KaptonContour:
I have a BAT pipe and a BAT snorkle filter. Tell me what
measurments you need.
Basically, I need the measurement from the TB to point where the MAF and MAF adaptor meets. Just measure from the point i have in the picture above to the point where the MAF and MAF adaptor meets and I should be good.
Thanks a ton!
I was wandering what happened to this thread.
so measure from the back of the flange on the UIM to the flange on the MAF where filter adapter bolts?
Ill try to get some pics to.
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Damn, I read through this whole post and now I'm at the end wondering what happened???? Did you get called back to work? If so, good for you--maybe not so good for us??? Whats the 911-oops-I mean the 411
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Ok! Ok! Ok! I have been fairly business the past few days, hince the reason I have not responded here yet, but overall money has just been real tight. For those wondering, no I have not been called back to work, nor have I found work. And here's the deal - Since money is so tight, I am not going ask for money, up front, for a product that I have not made yet. Simple as that. It would real easy, I can see now, for me to start taking orders and just let the money come in and start making sheilds from there, but... guys, I don't want to do things like that. I have enough material right now, to make one more sheild. And I would really like for that sheild to go to someone that has a BAT or CAT intake pipe, for reasons mentioned above (measurments). As for the people that do not have an intake pipe, right now, the design can stand as is. I should be able to take whatever criticism from the test fit an transfer it into the final design. If we can get some measurements from someone with the CTA and BAT pipes, you should be able to make adjustments the couplings to allow it to fit. If that is not exceptable, then I will have to make adjustments to allow for two designs. No big deal! thinking to himself(What the hell did DTec do here?)I will be sending PM's to a few folks, over the next day or so, asking for their participation in this and then we will go from there. It will be nothing flashy, as in a GB, or anything. But we can make this happen none the less. Thanks for all the posts in the past few days, showing some support for this. I would really like for this to happen, but I would rather do it the "right way" rather than the "wrong way". No matter what!
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Ok its 13" with the stock MAF and BAT pipe. I measured like I described above. When I get my UIM back from EH in a month I will be upgrading to a Proflow MAF which is an inch and 3/8 longer. If you need some capital to get this started let me know.
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Originally posted by KaptonContour:
If you need some capital to get this started let me know.
Gotta love CEG... I'm so happy..
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Let's all hug!
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Fine, everyone but you.
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Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
Let's all hug!
awwww
1999 Silver Ford SVT Contour
Assembled 08/06/1999 - #2555 of 2760
formerly known as flummox
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Ok I just read through most of this thread. here are some of my thoughts.
your prototype looks ok but it is too big for most peps with after market intake parts (pipe, maf, filter). mostly to long.
I dont think it needs to extend into the fender so far that you have to notch it for the wire harness. you need as much room as possible at the bottom near the fender to run inlet tubing up from the fender.
Also just a bit of my personal theroy on heat sheilds: They are not ment to block the flow of air (hot or cold). They are ment to block radiant heat from the motor/exhaust from soaking(heating)the eliment of the filter. I sure you have all heard the term heatsoak.
What do you think?
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Originally posted by KaptonContour:
Ok I just read through most of this thread. here are some of my thoughts.
your prototype looks ok but it is too big for most peps with after market intake parts (pipe, maf, filter). mostly to long.
I agree, hince the reason I needed the measurments that you gave me. Thanks by the way. Like I said before, I will make the next one, taking into consideration the new dimensions for length, to accomidate for the use of an intake pipe. But, like also mentioned earlier, the silicon couplings could possibly be trimed to allow for the extra space, but... that could be hit and miss. I'm not sure if I would want to cut on my couplents just so this sheild will fit.
Originally posted by KaptonContour:
I dont think it needs to extend into the fender so far that you have to notch it for the wire harness. you need as much room as possible at the bottom near the fender to run inlet tubing up from the fender.
Also just a bit of my personal theroy on heat sheilds: They are not ment to block the flow of air (hot or cold). They are ment to block radiant heat from the motor/exhaust from soaking(heating)the eliment of the filter. I sure you have all heard the term heatsoak.
What do you think?
I also agree with both of these points as well. But, the reason I wanted it to reach all the way to the wall and around the wiring harness, was to do exactly what you second states should not be done. (But I still agree with your point? I'm a weird fella ain't I!).
Well not really. The reason I wanted to block off the air that travels in that area, is because the air here is still warm. maybe not as hot as the rest of the engine bay, but warm enough still that if was to enter into the filter space it would raise the air temp. Ok, maybe just a little and maybe all that is just theory, but from what I have seen so far... I really think it is helping a great deal. I have removed the sealing medium from just the front cut-out and drove around for a few hours under different conditions. After this, I would raise the hood and grab the filter with my hand and it would be warm to the touch. Not HOT, but warm. No big deal right? Well, after placing the sealing medium back into the cut-out and making the exact same drive, on the same day and only about 15 minutes apart from the other, it made really big difference! I really didn't think it would, but after reaching an area with 5 four-way stops in a row; followed by a 25mph section that is roughly 150 yards, the high speed fans were working really hard. This is where the filter felt warm to the touch with the sealent removed, but with the sealant there, the filter did not feel warm to the touch. It was not cold, which this sheild does not claim to achieve, but it was not even warm to the touch.
Now! I am able to notice this difference, although not very scientific, and I still have not installed the fresh air tube yet. So I am really siked about what will happen once that it put in. I know that in stop and go traffic, the intake hose really will not do a lot, just because of it's nature. But on the highway and while moving above 25mph, it should help a good bit. Not real sure how much, so right now all that is speculation on my part.
And, why is it so big? Well, you should see the first one I made! Man that thing was big!! But seriously though, since I am blocking off all fresh air sources, other than that from the fender, I want the space around the filter to hold as much air as possible. And if the sheild can keep hot air from the engine bay and the extremely hot air blowen out the radiator, when the fans turn on, from the filter - that's good. And if I can keep all the air that is inside the filter space lower than what is in the engine bay and keep it that way, then I will call the sheild a sucess.
As you can see in the picture below, I have left enough room to run a fresh air tube from the inside the fender well.
Thanks for the questions. That was the whole reason I started this thread to begin with. If anyone else has any other comments or suggestions, I am still totally open.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 80
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Originally posted by unisys12:
Originally posted by KaptonContour:
Ok I just read through most of this thread. here are some of my thoughts.
your prototype looks ok but it is too big for most peps with after market intake parts (pipe, maf, filter). mostly to long.
I agree, hince the reason I needed the measurments that you gave me. Thanks by the way. Like I said before, I will make the next one, taking into consideration the new dimensions for length, to accomidate for the use of an intake pipe. But, like also mentioned earlier, the silicon couplings could possibly be trimed to allow for the extra space, but... that could be hit and miss. I'm not sure if I would want to cut on my couplents just so this sheild will fit.
Originally posted by KaptonContour:
I dont think it needs to extend into the fender so far that you have to notch it for the wire harness. you need as much room as possible at the bottom near the fender to run inlet tubing up from the fender.
Also just a bit of my personal theroy on heat sheilds: They are not ment to block the flow of air (hot or cold). They are ment to block radiant heat from the motor/exhaust from soaking(heating)the eliment of the filter. I sure you have all heard the term heatsoak.
What do you think?
I also agree with both of these points as well. But, the reason I wanted it to reach all the way to the wall and around the wiring harness, was to do exactly what you second states should not be done. (But I still agree with your point? I'm a weird fella ain't I!).
Well not really. The reason I wanted to block off the air that travels in that area, is because the air here is still warm. maybe not as hot as the rest of the engine bay, but warm enough still that if was to enter into the filter space it would raise the air temp. Ok, maybe just a little and maybe all that is just theory, but from what I have seen so far... I really think it is helping a great deal. I have removed the sealing medium from just the front cut-out and drove around for a few hours under different conditions. After this, I would raise the hood and grab the filter with my hand and it would be warm to the touch. Not HOT, but warm. No big deal right? Well, after placing the sealing medium back into the cut-out and making the exact same drive, on the same day and only about 15 minutes apart from the other, it made really big difference! I really didn't think it would, but after reaching an area with 5 four-way stops in a row; followed by a 25mph section that is roughly 150 yards, the high speed fans were working really hard. This is where the filter felt warm to the touch with the sealent removed, but with the sealant there, the filter did not feel warm to the touch. It was not cold, which this sheild does not claim to achieve, but it was not even warm to the touch.
Now! I am able to notice this difference, although not very scientific, and I still have not installed the fresh air tube yet. So I am really siked about what will happen once that it put in. I know that in stop and go traffic, the intake hose really will not do a lot, just because of it's nature. But on the highway and while moving above 25mph, it should help a good bit. Not real sure how much, so right now all that is speculation on my part.
And, why is it so big? Well, you should see the first one I made! Man that thing was big!! But seriously though, since I am blocking off all fresh air sources, other than that from the fender, I want the space around the filter to hold as much air as possible. And if the sheild can keep hot air from the engine bay and the extremely hot air blowen out the radiator, when the fans turn on, from the filter - that's good. And if I can keep all the air that is inside the filter space lower than what is in the engine bay and keep it that way, then I will call the sheild a sucess.
As you can see in the picture below, I have left enough room to run a fresh air tube from the inside the fender well.
Thanks for the questions. That was the whole reason I started this thread to begin with. If anyone else has any other comments or suggestions, I am still totally open.
Its kinda hard to see the opening in the fender from that pic.
So the notched part is just to help keep out "warm"
air? I guess you have to worrie about that more with the K&N. With my BAT snorkle setup as long as your moving you get plenty of fresh air. So I'm just trying to keep my eliment cool.
I will try and get some pics. but I'm such a slacker you never know. Also I have no idea how to post them.
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Originally posted by KaptonContour:
Its kinda hard to see the opening in the fender from that pic.
So the notched part is just to help keep out "warm"
air? I guess you have to worrie about that more with the K&N. With my BAT snorkle setup as long as your moving you get plenty of fresh air. So I'm just trying to keep my eliment cool.
I will try and get some pics. but I'm such a slacker you never know. Also I have no idea how to post them.
Yes, I am very familar with the BAT Snorkle style filter. I know of several that have this filter assembly and are happy with it. Also, one of the more popular filter assembles, early on, was the KKM. This was also an inverse cone filter design that used a single couplent, at the inverse portion of the filter, and connected to the stock SVT air inlet port located in the fender well.
There's still one problem, with even both of these designs. These filters still draw far more warm air, then they do fresh cooler air without a heatsheild. So yes, the main goal here, as with any heatsheild, is to block all that warm air.
Now! Even given the fact that you have an inverse filter, with a snorkle attached to the filter, you are really only cooling a very small portion of the air entering your intake manifold. Look at like this - The next time you remove your filter, for cleaning, pay attention to the surface area of the outer portion of the filter media and the inverse/cone portion of the media. See the big difference in size? Of course you do. Now. Take those proportions and translate it into the amount of air coming into the intake. The portion that is bringing in the cooler, fresher air is at such a smaller proportion in relation the rest of the filter, it's not really enough to offset or cool the large amount of warm air coming in through the rest of the filter.
Now, the reason I actually decided to do make my own sheild goes back to a recent meet. Hector (LoCoZ) and I was at a Home Depot getting what else, stuff for modding our cars. Anyway, we got to talking about heatsheilds and how I needed one badly. The day before, while driving in the mountains, I had noticed that after driving through some of the slower sections - which allowed my enigne temps to rise - once in the fast sections, I had a hard time getting up to speed with some of the others there. The car would just bog out, almost completely when going uphill. Once we got to an rest area and we all took a break, I popped my hood and checked my filter. I found that it was so hot, that I could not hold it with my hand. It was just a normal case of some serious heatsoak!
So, since we were at Home Depot I wanted to take a look at some of the mailboxes there, because I know that is a common place for most to start with making a heatsheild. But once I got to looking at them, I quickly saw that afer cutting the box down, it left very little room inside where the filter would be. So I asked the question, "What good would it do, to cut down your air supply just so you can block heat?" I'm no engineer, by any stretch of the imagination (and I have one hell of a imagination!), but I know I could make something better than a mailbox or some tupperware for a heatsheild.
So, here is my proposal of how to fix these two problems.
1) Give the filter media a larger area to sit in. This will do a few things. First of all, it will give the filter a lot more breathing room as opposed to the smaller boxes made before. Also, this extra room will allow for better movement of the air around the filter media. This "should" translate into lower air temperatures surrounding the filter.
2) Removing the snorkle from the filter and moving it back to the opening in the fender, will allow the above things to take place. If you only supplied fresh air, to the same small portion of filter media, will still not be enough to cool the rest of the air down that is entering the rest of the filter. I guess I look at putting the snorkle in the end of the filter as a sort of bottle neck and I want to elimante that here. So, moving the snorkle back allows for maximum air flow to the outter filter media, which is where most of all the air entering the intake system enters anyway.
Overall, you are correct. The main goal here is to keep the element as cool as possible. Man! I'm really having fun discussing this. Let's keep it up! I've actually started thinking about something that could be made to gather more air for the snorkle/fresh air tube. Something that could be... Oh, that's another thread.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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I guess I'll chime in here. I eventually have to replace my driver side fender due to too many dings and paint chips. I've been thinking about cutting into it just for experimental sake as soon as it's time to get a new fender, and see if I could make an effective direct air intake for the filter, through some vents/portholes/ducting. Any thoughts?
But as far as a heatshield goes, I've been following this thread pretty closely, very fascinating and good job unisys (sp?, I'm too lazy to check)! Once you get it finalized I'd love to see the measurements/materials/prices of the whole project. I have a KKM with that blue rubber piping to the fender well, mounted to a ProFlow MAF, so I think mine would take a bit of customization, but this thread has been very helpful in my ideas!
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2) Removing the snorkle from the filter and moving it back to the opening in the fender, will allow the above things to take place. If you only supplied fresh air, to the same small portion of filter media, will still not be enough to cool the rest of the air down that is entering the rest of the filter. I guess I look at putting the snorkle in the end of the filter as a sort of bottle neck and I want to elimante that here. So, moving the snorkle back allows for maximum air flow to the outter filter media, which is where most of all the air entering the intake system enters anyway.
Hmm I dont really agree with your logic on that but I'm perty tired so I think about it tomarro.
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