Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance Heatsheild Prototype 1

Originally posted by KaptonContour:

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If you need some capital to get this started let me know.

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Gotta love CEG... I'm so happy..

Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:

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Let's all hug!

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awwww

Originally posted by KaptonContour:

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Ok I just read through most of this thread. here are some of my thoughts.
your prototype looks ok but it is too big for most peps with after market intake parts (pipe, maf, filter). mostly to long.

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I agree, hince the reason I needed the measurments that you gave me. Thanks by the way. Like I said before, I will make the next one, taking into consideration the new dimensions for length, to accomidate for the use of an intake pipe. But, like also mentioned earlier, the silicon couplings could possibly be trimed to allow for the extra space, but... that could be hit and miss. I'm not sure if I would want to cut on my couplents just so this sheild will fit.

Originally posted by KaptonContour:

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I dont think it needs to extend into the fender so far that you have to notch it for the wire harness. you need as much room as possible at the bottom near the fender to run inlet tubing up from the fender.


Also just a bit of my personal theroy on heat sheilds: They are not ment to block the flow of air (hot or cold). They are ment to block radiant heat from the motor/exhaust from soaking(heating)the eliment of the filter. I sure you have all heard the term heatsoak.

What do you think?

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I also agree with both of these points as well. But, the reason I wanted it to reach all the way to the wall and around the wiring harness, was to do exactly what you second states should not be done. (But I still agree with your point? I'm a weird fella ain't I!).

Well not really. The reason I wanted to block off the air that travels in that area, is because the air here is still warm. maybe not as hot as the rest of the engine bay, but warm enough still that if was to enter into the filter space it would raise the air temp. Ok, maybe just a little and maybe all that is just theory, but from what I have seen so far... I really think it is helping a great deal. I have removed the sealing medium from just the front cut-out and drove around for a few hours under different conditions. After this, I would raise the hood and grab the filter with my hand and it would be warm to the touch. Not HOT, but warm. No big deal right? Well, after placing the sealing medium back into the cut-out and making the exact same drive, on the same day and only about 15 minutes apart from the other, it made really big difference! I really didn't think it would, but after reaching an area with 5 four-way stops in a row; followed by a 25mph section that is roughly 150 yards, the high speed fans were working really hard. This is where the filter felt warm to the touch with the sealent removed, but with the sealant there, the filter did not feel warm to the touch. It was not cold, which this sheild does not claim to achieve, but it was not even warm to the touch.

Now! I am able to notice this difference, although not very scientific, and I still have not installed the fresh air tube yet. So I am really siked about what will happen once that it put in. I know that in stop and go traffic, the intake hose really will not do a lot, just because of it's nature. But on the highway and while moving above 25mph, it should help a good bit. Not real sure how much, so right now all that is speculation on my part.

And, why is it so big? Well, you should see the first one I made! Man that thing was big!! But seriously though, since I am blocking off all fresh air sources, other than that from the fender, I want the space around the filter to hold as much air as possible. And if the sheild can keep hot air from the engine bay and the extremely hot air blowen out the radiator, when the fans turn on, from the filter - that's good. And if I can keep all the air that is inside the filter space lower than what is in the engine bay and keep it that way, then I will call the sheild a sucess.

As you can see in the picture below, I have left enough room to run a fresh air tube from the inside the fender well.



Thanks for the questions. That was the whole reason I started this thread to begin with. If anyone else has any other comments or suggestions, I am still totally open.

Originally posted by unisys12:

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Originally posted by KaptonContour:

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Ok I just read through most of this thread. here are some of my thoughts.
your prototype looks ok but it is too big for most peps with after market intake parts (pipe, maf, filter). mostly to long.

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I agree, hince the reason I needed the measurments that you gave me. Thanks by the way. Like I said before, I will make the next one, taking into consideration the new dimensions for length, to accomidate for the use of an intake pipe. But, like also mentioned earlier, the silicon couplings could possibly be trimed to allow for the extra space, but... that could be hit and miss. I'm not sure if I would want to cut on my couplents just so this sheild will fit.

Originally posted by KaptonContour:

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I dont think it needs to extend into the fender so far that you have to notch it for the wire harness. you need as much room as possible at the bottom near the fender to run inlet tubing up from the fender.


Also just a bit of my personal theroy on heat sheilds: They are not ment to block the flow of air (hot or cold). They are ment to block radiant heat from the motor/exhaust from soaking(heating)the eliment of the filter. I sure you have all heard the term heatsoak.

What do you think?

---

I also agree with both of these points as well. But, the reason I wanted it to reach all the way to the wall and around the wiring harness, was to do exactly what you second states should not be done. (But I still agree with your point? I'm a weird fella ain't I!).

Well not really. The reason I wanted to block off the air that travels in that area, is because the air here is still warm. maybe not as hot as the rest of the engine bay, but warm enough still that if was to enter into the filter space it would raise the air temp. Ok, maybe just a little and maybe all that is just theory, but from what I have seen so far... I really think it is helping a great deal. I have removed the sealing medium from just the front cut-out and drove around for a few hours under different conditions. After this, I would raise the hood and grab the filter with my hand and it would be warm to the touch. Not HOT, but warm. No big deal right? Well, after placing the sealing medium back into the cut-out and making the exact same drive, on the same day and only about 15 minutes apart from the other, it made really big difference! I really didn't think it would, but after reaching an area with 5 four-way stops in a row; followed by a 25mph section that is roughly 150 yards, the high speed fans were working really hard. This is where the filter felt warm to the touch with the sealent removed, but with the sealant there, the filter did not feel warm to the touch. It was not cold, which this sheild does not claim to achieve, but it was not even warm to the touch.

Now! I am able to notice this difference, although not very scientific, and I still have not installed the fresh air tube yet. So I am really siked about what will happen once that it put in. I know that in stop and go traffic, the intake hose really will not do a lot, just because of it's nature. But on the highway and while moving above 25mph, it should help a good bit. Not real sure how much, so right now all that is speculation on my part.

And, why is it so big? Well, you should see the first one I made! Man that thing was big!! But seriously though, since I am blocking off all fresh air sources, other than that from the fender, I want the space around the filter to hold as much air as possible. And if the sheild can keep hot air from the engine bay and the extremely hot air blowen out the radiator, when the fans turn on, from the filter - that's good. And if I can keep all the air that is inside the filter space lower than what is in the engine bay and keep it that way, then I will call the sheild a sucess.

As you can see in the picture below, I have left enough room to run a fresh air tube from the inside the fender well.



Thanks for the questions. That was the whole reason I started this thread to begin with. If anyone else has any other comments or suggestions, I am still totally open.

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Originally posted by KaptonContour:

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Its kinda hard to see the opening in the fender from that pic.
So the notched part is just to help keep out "warm"
air? I guess you have to worrie about that more with the K&N. With my BAT snorkle setup as long as your moving you get plenty of fresh air. So I'm just trying to keep my eliment cool.
I will try and get some pics. but I'm such a slacker you never know. Also I have no idea how to post them.

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Yes, I am very familar with the BAT Snorkle style filter. I know of several that have this filter assembly and are happy with it. Also, one of the more popular filter assembles, early on, was the KKM. This was also an inverse cone filter design that used a single couplent, at the inverse portion of the filter, and connected to the stock SVT air inlet port located in the fender well.

There's still one problem, with even both of these designs. These filters still draw far more warm air, then they do fresh cooler air without a heatsheild. So yes, the main goal here, as with any heatsheild, is to block all that warm air.

Now! Even given the fact that you have an inverse filter, with a snorkle attached to the filter, you are really only cooling a very small portion of the air entering your intake manifold. Look at like this - The next time you remove your filter, for cleaning, pay attention to the surface area of the outer portion of the filter media and the inverse/cone portion of the media. See the big difference in size? Of course you do. Now. Take those proportions and translate it into the amount of air coming into the intake. The portion that is bringing in the cooler, fresher air is at such a smaller proportion in relation the rest of the filter, it's not really enough to offset or cool the large amount of warm air coming in through the rest of the filter.

Now, the reason I actually decided to do make my own sheild goes back to a recent meet. Hector (LoCoZ) and I was at a Home Depot getting what else, stuff for modding our cars. Anyway, we got to talking about heatsheilds and how I needed one badly. The day before, while driving in the mountains, I had noticed that after driving through some of the slower sections - which allowed my enigne temps to rise - once in the fast sections, I had a hard time getting up to speed with some of the others there. The car would just bog out, almost completely when going uphill. Once we got to an rest area and we all took a break, I popped my hood and checked my filter. I found that it was so hot, that I could not hold it with my hand. It was just a normal case of some serious heatsoak!

So, since we were at Home Depot I wanted to take a look at some of the mailboxes there, because I know that is a common place for most to start with making a heatsheild. But once I got to looking at them, I quickly saw that afer cutting the box down, it left very little room inside where the filter would be. So I asked the question, "What good would it do, to cut down your air supply just so you can block heat?" I'm no engineer, by any stretch of the imagination (and I have one hell of a imagination!), but I know I could make something better than a mailbox or some tupperware for a heatsheild.



So, here is my proposal of how to fix these two problems.

1) Give the filter media a larger area to sit in. This will do a few things. First of all, it will give the filter a lot more breathing room as opposed to the smaller boxes made before. Also, this extra room will allow for better movement of the air around the filter media. This "should" translate into lower air temperatures surrounding the filter.

2) Removing the snorkle from the filter and moving it back to the opening in the fender, will allow the above things to take place. If you only supplied fresh air, to the same small portion of filter media, will still not be enough to cool the rest of the air down that is entering the rest of the filter. I guess I look at putting the snorkle in the end of the filter as a sort of bottle neck and I want to elimante that here. So, moving the snorkle back allows for maximum air flow to the outter filter media, which is where most of all the air entering the intake system enters anyway.


Overall, you are correct. The main goal here is to keep the element as cool as possible. Man! I'm really having fun discussing this. Let's keep it up! I've actually started thinking about something that could be made to gather more air for the snorkle/fresh air tube. Something that could be... Oh, that's another thread.