Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Idle

Ok i have a quick question .How would you discribe the idle of your SVT or just your 2.5 .I have never drove a SVT before mine and have nothing to compair it to and was just wondering if i have a normal idle.My idle is kinda rough not to bad but you can tell the car is running as well as i have a very faint kinda sputer or small backfire very very low if you didnt know it was their you might not here it.But im such a freak i feel and here any thing with my car! Thanks in advance mark

What is your mileage and what is your car idling at?

If it is cold, and it idles rough, you probably have a vacuum leak.

Begin with the cheapest fix by cleaning your IAC and MAF. Change your IAC gasket when you clean your IAC.

The car has 40000 on it.Their is not really a dif from cold idle to normal temp idle.The car idles at about a grand give or take.It has a normal idle speed.The IAC is fairly new how often should i clean it?.I have not tryed to clean the MAF yet so i will give that a go.

warm idle should be about 600-650 rpm, and pretty smooth.

The idle on my SVT is exceptionally smooth and with a warmed up engine about 700 RPM.

Update well last night i went to napa and got some tb cleaner and electrical cleaner gave the old maf sensor a good cleaning and it did help not with the prob i had but i noticed by my butt dyno that it had better pickup so thats good.Now as for my ongoing prob with the idle it is in the 700 to 750 mark at an idle but i keep getting like a popping noise from my exhaust it seems to happen more as the car is comming down off of rpms to idle for exaple at a stop light it calms down a bit after a long idle but its still rough and i have noticed some black carbon on my pipes though not alot its still their . could the DPFE sensor be doing this? im at a loss

I dont think ive ever been so pissed.Yesterday i broke down and went to the stealership to see if they could figure out what the hell was wrong with my car and they ran all their tests and came back and said I THINK its your maf sensor so i ask them what one would cost they said $140.00 so what was i to do get one of course so i go to the parts counter and ask to buy one well guess what!!They dont have one amagine that so i called up Oreilly auto parts and they have one for $60.00 Ya so i thougt this would be great ill put it on and all my problems will disaper NOT. Same damn thing happening so i drive back to the shop and have them put it back on the scaner buy this time im going insane do you want to guess what they said Its fixed well then i asked them why its still doing the same thing his response was O it needs a good engine cleaning for ONLY $100.00 so you know whats comming ive kept my cool now for WAYYY to long i basicaly blew up and told him to stick his engine cleaning up his @$$ got in my car and drove it out of the shop my self! so i go home and continue to go threw the car looking for any thing out of the ordinary nothing looked off great vacume good fule pressure.The only thing left was the plugs witch by the way are two week old motorcraft plats.They looked like sh#* so this morning i went to the parts store retured my maf sensor bought some bosh plats and went to ford and kindly asked them for my money back and told them i came to get my car diagnosed not for some @ss to guess at it hell i could do that! and guess what they told me "If we where to to that every time somthing like this happened we wouldnt be able to pay our help"Boy that makes me fell better well they didnt give my money back.But at least my car is running again. well thats my story. Todays lessons are not to buy motorcraft spark plugs or trust a damn stealership

I almost hate to tell you, but you'll be replacing those Bosch plugs before long as well.

Autolite Double plat plugs and Auotlite Pro-fix wires.