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Now that I have decided to go ahead with components, I am intrigued by the possibility of cobbling together my own. I've been looking around partsexpress.com, and have read that Vifa and Audax both make solid products. I wanted to know if anyone knew if the Tang Band speakers on PE are any good? They are really cheap, and I am all for cheap if they are actually worth their weight.
On a related note, what should I look for in matching tweeters and woofers. I already know I want to have textile/silk dome tweeters for highs that aren't as bright as with metal domes and that I need at least 40W RMS power handling (see amp choice below). Is there anything in particular that I should know to look for/avoid in picking out components?
In case its important, I plan on putting the components in MDF plates in my factory sites for my front stage and powering them with two of the channels from a JBL P80.4 (I think 40Wx4 RMS) and bridging the other two for a rear deck sub later.
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I've just ordered a pair of these Goldwood 7" Woofers and a pair of these Onkyo 5/8" Textile Dome Tweeters for a whopping grand total of $27.50 to put together a component system in my MSP. I also ordered a pair of these Goldwood 8" Woofers at $14/each for a pair of rear deck subs (two 8ohm woofers being run in parallel for a total 4ohm load, which will be run off the bridged rear channels of a 4ch amp). Tang Band speakers are good speakers. I'm guessing you're looking at their tweeters? What you need to be aware of when picking out components is the impedence of the speaker. I'd make sure your woofer has a nominal impedence of 4ohms. If you go with an 8ohm woofer, your amp will only be putting 20w to it. It's not as important with a tweeter for it to have a low ohm load. With a higher ohm load, you'll be sending it less power (less chance of frying it) and it won't overpower the mid (I can't stand bright tweets either). Put up some links to the drivers you're considering, and we can help you out with your choices.
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The tang band drivers are actuall exceptional for what you pay for. I'm personally going to get a pair of TB drivers for my g/f's altima, for a component set. The 4 ohm neodymium 4" drivers are what i'm going to use at $20 each.
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Originally posted by dbzjr:
The tang band drivers are actuall exceptional for what you pay for.
This actually brings up another concern I have. I've never heard a system with components like these before. It seems like the people with the most audio experience on CEG seem to prefer these brands, even though they seem unusually cheap, so I assume this is the right road to go down, even though I only have a vague idea of what I am doing. This is actually important, because my parents think I am pouring money into a black hole by doing anything to my 'tour, and I need to prove them wrong with either serious sound, saving a lot of money, or preferably, both.
With that in mind, I pinned down some choices that appear to be good. Audax 5.5" Aerogel Driver, Tang Band 4" Driver, Goldwood 5.5" Driver.
And these Tang Band's for tweets.
One other thing, do you know what size tweets and drivers will fit on a 6x8" plate? I was going to draw up a model to figure out what sizes will fit, but can't find complete enough dimensions for a 6x8" mounting location.
The one reason I didn't pin down choices initially is that I noticed on ebay there is a continually changing set of vifa (and other brands) drivers up there in pairs for significantly less than on PE. I figured that some of those would be good, and certainly be cheaper than buying already-put-together components, but since they change so often, I didn't want to become really set on them only to have them bought up by someone else before I could get a chance/figure out what I'm doing.
Thanks for your help.
Last edited by bluetour; 03/29/04 03:54 AM.
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I plan on doing the same thing to my front so me and you are in the same boat. I found cthomps post here useful, I think I'm going to make plates as well. Any vets out there willing to give us some advice?
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u r going to need some type of crossover since these are all separates. either have custom passive crossovers made, or audiocontrol crossovers, etc.
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Gee, I know even less about crossovers than I do about the component parts. How much is it to get custom ones made up? Or are there cheaper crossover options, like something I could pick up off ebay or PE?
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You are correct about these brands being unusually cheap. Although it may be cheap, when you actually end up using all of them, the sound will be ALOT more than what you expected. It's what happened to me, having to own a crap load of name brand stuff. MB Quart, JL audio, and so forth.... Right now you're entering the Do It Yourself world of audio. You'll realize a crap load of stuff will out perform famous names.. for a lot less.
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Originally posted by bluetour:
Gee, I know even less about crossovers than I do about the component parts. How much is it to get custom ones made up? Or are there cheaper crossover options, like something I could pick up off ebay or PE?
You can get custom-built crossovers from www.madisound.com but you'll have to buy the drivers they offer (from them or someplace else). They've got some nice looking woofers on their sale page.
Check out www.solen.ca and www.speakercity.com for drivers too. Between them and PE, you can usually find something nice for dirt cheap on their sale prices.
You'll find the more that you get into car audio, that the addage "you get what you pay for" just doesn't apply in this realm. 
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Originally posted by Tj78492:
I plan on doing the same thing to my front so me and you are in the same boat. I found cthomps post here useful, I think I'm going to make plates as well. Any vets out there willing to give us some advice?
Yup, those Vifa Neo tweets are my personal favorite. I've got 3 pair of 'em.
Post up any drivers you're interested in, and we'll make comments on them.
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Quote:
One other thing, do you know what size tweets and drivers will fit on a 6x8" plate? I was going to draw up a model to figure out what sizes will fit, but can't find complete enough dimensions for a 6x8" mounting location.
It really depends on the sizes of the individual drivers and their mounting rings. A surface mount tweeter (like the Vifa Neo) will give you more mounting options and let you use a bigger woofer. I'd shoot for a 7" woofer to help sink some good mid-bass up front. You'll be surprised how much it'll help out your rear deck sub.
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Is it actually possible to fit a 7" woofer and a tweeter onto a 6x8" plate? That sounds a little big. Are there any other surface mount tweeters at PE that are a little cheaper than the Vifa neos? I was going to go to best buy today to measure, but I'm not going have a chance. At the moment, this is the one thing that is keeping me from picking out specific components; I have no idea what size drivers will fit onto a 6x8 plate. I will try again on the internet to see if I can find some useful information about that.
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You can make the "plate" as big as you want. It doesn't need to be 6"x8" which is where a surface mount tweeter comes into play. You just need some 1/2" plywood, a jigsaw, and some creativity. These Tweets should fit the bill - silk domes, surface mount, and adjustable angle for better aiming (which makes a big difference in the stock location).
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Wow, those tweets are perfect. Adjustable and everything! That's why I originally liked the Vifa Neos with their wedge mount, but they are just too much $$$. I am assuming by bigger than 6x8, I am assuming you mean that the factory hole is roughly 6x8, and if I stick to the same mounting points, the plate can accommodate a bigger speaker, as long as the magnet fits through the factory hole. If that's the case, then I might just go for some larger (7"ish) drivers, especially since the pyramid tweets, it appears, can be mounted on the very edge of the plate. Let me know if this is what you meant by "bigger than 6x8".
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Yup, you got the idea. Might want to take a look at those 7" Goldwood woofers I linked to earlier.
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How would go go about wiring an amp into this system? I have a 97 gl nonpremium. I'd it'd be cool if I could tap into the stock speaker wire somewhere to avoid drilling holes, but there is no amp so I'm not sure where to do that at. I really dont want to drill but if I have to I will.
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The impression I had was that on the backside of the crossover, the factory wires could be plugged in, and then on the front where all the connections are, wires would go out to the speaker components. I could be wrong. People who know what they are doing, feel free to correct me.
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I mounted the crossover in the door along with the drivers. I wired my amp into the factory wiring where the factory amp used to be.
The signal from the amp goes to the crossover which has two outputs, one to the tweeter and the other to the woofer.
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yea but what if you don't have a factory amp
Last edited by Tj78492; 03/30/04 04:47 AM.
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Ok, one last string of questions and I think maybe I will be ready to make some purchases.
First, I like the Pyramid tweets linked before, and the Goldwood 7" drivers. Although the price is right, I'd like to know if I am giving up a marked difference it quality over more expensive components (i.e. Vifa, etc.). I really just want something that will fill my car with sound and make me at least mostly convinced that I am in front of the stage.
Second, what can I do about crossovers that won't cost $25/ea.? I don't have the cojones or the time to make my own crossovers, and as far as I can tell, all I need is something to split the frequencies above 2kHz or 2.5kHz to the tweet and below to the woofer. I tried looking on ebay, and found several crossovers that were very in my price range, but I can't find any information about the frequencies they cut off at.
Third, are those Pyramids going to fit inside the door, after being mounted on top of 1/2" plywood? It would seem like they are about 3" tall and I have no idea how much clearance there is in there once the door panel is on.
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go to partsexpress.com search for fmods. they are about 25 a pair and another way to go. may be stretching your budget but another option none the less.
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Originally posted by Tj78492:
yea but what if you don't have a factory amp
Either run the wiring from the amp to the factory harness located behind the head unit or run new wiring into the doors.
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(1) They won't be as good as Vifa, Peerless, Morel, etc. but will be a significant improvement over drop-in coaxials. I think they'll do a good job in providing what you're looking for, especially with some good amplification.
(2) A crossover frequency between 2-3Khz would be best suited for these drivers. The ones you see on ebay are probably all in the general neighborhood. I wouldn't lose sleep about it. I'd look for one with a tweeter attenuation circuit which would help with tuning.
(3) Not sure, but I don't think those tweets are anywhere near 3" tall, maybe around 2". In any case, there's at least a good 1.5" behind the door panel to work with, and you don't have to mount them on the plywood.
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Ok so here's my ???? Can i use my x-over an tweeter from my A/D/S 235IS an just get a bigger driver say a 7in or do i need a new x-over becuz the woofer went from a 5 1/5 to a 7inch speaker????
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As long as the new driver can cover the frequencies up to the crossover point, it should be fine.
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Hey! For a dummy like me, It'd be much easier to buy all this stuff at once, together in a package deal. How is this? The quality and such ok? Is it a big deal to install it? (I did all my other speakers/subs) Looks to fit in price range VERY nicely. Do I need an amp to power it? Or is it better to run it off my ALpine9925 deck? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=265-368
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To 96tourkid-although that package is fine, it is expensive. I don't know if cost is a concern for you. You could probably do that install yourself, considering I am doing mine myself and have no idea what I am doing. If you have any experience, you can probably do it. If you don't have one now, you should buy an amp. These will sound infinitely better on an amp.
To Everyone Else-Wiring? I looked on knukonceptz and had no idea what to look for. I am going to be doing a sub and the two speakers w/crossovers simultaneously. I have no idea what kind/size to get or even what the differences are. Also, why does everyone say knukonceptz has the best wiring? Is there actually a difference in wiring quality between knu and, say, streetwires or even lowes?
Btw, thanks for the awesome advice so far everyone, I am so excited to buy all this stuff and do my install.
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Originally posted by bluetour:
To 96tourkid-although that package is fine, it is expensive. I don't know if cost is a concern for you. You could probably do that install yourself, considering I am doing mine myself and have no idea what I am doing. If you have any experience, you can probably do it. If you don't have one now, you should buy an amp. These will sound infinitely better on an amp.
To Everyone Else-Wiring? I looked on knukonceptz and had no idea what to look for. I am going to be doing a sub and the two speakers w/crossovers simultaneously. I have no idea what kind/size to get or even what the differences are. Also, why does everyone say knukonceptz has the best wiring? Is there actually a difference in wiring quality between knu and, say, streetwires or even lowes?
Btw, thanks for the awesome advice so far everyone, I am so excited to buy all this stuff and do my install.
I think everyone likes knu becuase he's a member of these boards and offers quality stuff at pretty low prices. Lowes is part of walmart so their kit is probably crap, but streetwires should be good, but it'll cost more then knu.
Which mids and tweeter did you decide on, I plan on doing my own components and upgrading my sub when I get out of college in a few weeks, and it'll be my first time so you and me are in the same boat. I might end up getting the same stuff you get, either that or the vifa stuff mentioned in the thread I linked to. I going to get some passive crossovers from ebay for my components
How do you plan on running the speaker wire to the doors, thats the only part I'm not sure about.
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Ok, here goes:
Tweets: Pyramid TW22M
-They are adjustable, which is helpful, as cthomp21 said, for the factory locations, to improve imaging. And using the Vifa Neo's with the angle mounting cup is too expensive (I'd like to squeeze everything in under $250, so my parents don't freak, not to mention I am about to /go/ to college).
Woofers: Goldwood GW-S650/4 (the 4ohm version)
-These are nice, they have the specs I am looking for and they are cheap. Again, Vifa or Audax would be nice, but simply not cost effective. I don't want to spend $80 just on two woofers. I may upgrade the woofers later.
Crossovers: Something off eBay, whatever crosses around 3ish kHz.
Amp: Something from JBL, probably the P80.4, mounted in the trunk. I don't want people bashing it with their feet, and it will probably overheat in the ideal factory location.
Wiring: Knu...something, still don't know which wires for what, considering this is the part that I know the least about (now that I understand crossovers).
Speaker wires to the doors: I am planning on piggybacking on the factory wiring already running into the doors. The thing I don't understand is why the wires can't just be run through the little rubber thing. If its a plug, then where are the factory speaker wires? My plan is to take the factory speaker wires and hook them into the crossovers, then do my own wiring to the components. On the other end, I plan on taking the factory harness adapter thing and then extending those wires (for the fronts only) to the amp, leaving the backs still plugged into the HU amp. Ill use the preamp outs on the HU for the amp itself so it has an audio signal, of course. Ill hook the sub up to the amp as well, when I finally get a sub.
Someone tell me if the above won't work/is flawed.
One other thing I don't understand (besides wiring), is how to get power to the sub itself. Do I run a cable (and what sort) directly to the battery? Fuses what? etc. etc. etc.
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using your jbl 80.4 you would bridge the 2 rear channels and run the speaker wire from the amp to the sub. The whole point of the amp is to power the sub, so only some extra speaker wire will be necessary.
where are you going to tap into the factory wiring? when I hooked up my head unit there where +/- wires for each speaker could I tap into it there? I'd like to do it closer to the door but I need to know how to get to them.
also cthomp: if I can afford it do you think it is worth it go with the vifa tweeter and peerless mids? I got an mtx amp that put out 2x80 @4ohms I hope to use.
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**Sorry, made an error on my above post, I meant to say how to get power to the AMP not the sub. I know the point of the amp is to get power to the sub by bridging the two rear channels, I am constantly mis-using "sub" instead of "amp", I don't know why... So to repeat my query, I want to know how to get power to the amp. If that requires connections at the battery posts or wherever, and what about fuses, etc.
I was going to tap into the factory wire inside the doors. There should be a +/- wire already in there for the factory speaker (I hope, of course, if there's no wire its a good explanation for why the factory speakers sound like such crap) and I was going to hook up the crossover to that. Then all it will take is a little more wire to connect the crossover module to each individual component in each door (tweet and mid).
And just for fun, I am going to repeat my other question too, lest it be forgotten: what kind of speaker wire should I be using? Knu offers a lot of different kinds, and its all greek to me.
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Originally posted by bluetour:
**Sorry, made an error on my above post, I meant to say how to get power to the AMP not the sub. I know the point of the amp is to get power to the sub by bridging the two rear channels, I am constantly mis-using "sub" instead of "amp", I don't know why... So to repeat my query, I want to know how to get power to the amp. If that requires connections at the battery posts or wherever, and what about fuses, etc.
I was going to tap into the factory wire inside the doors. There should be a +/- wire already in there for the factory speaker (I hope, of course, if there's no wire its a good explanation for why the factory speakers sound like such crap) and I was going to hook up the crossover to that. Then all it will take is a little more wire to connect the crossover module to each individual component in each door (tweet and mid).
And just for fun, I am going to repeat my other question too, lest it be forgotten: what kind of speaker wire should I be using? Knu offers a lot of different kinds, and its all greek to me.
If your going with the jbl 80.4 all you will need is this kit from KNU.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK84
As far as speaker wire goes, you don't have to use anything to fancy and remember thinner wire is easier to work with so don't get too low of a Gauge. The kit comes with 12 gauge and that is more than adequate.
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Originally posted by Pienstars:
Originally posted by bluetour:
**Sorry, made an error on my above post, I meant to say how to get power to the AMP not the sub. I know the point of the amp is to get power to the sub by bridging the two rear channels, I am constantly mis-using "sub" instead of "amp", I don't know why... So to repeat my query, I want to know how to get power to the amp. If that requires connections at the battery posts or wherever, and what about fuses, etc.
I was going to tap into the factory wire inside the doors. There should be a +/- wire already in there for the factory speaker (I hope, of course, if there's no wire its a good explanation for why the factory speakers sound like such crap) and I was going to hook up the crossover to that. Then all it will take is a little more wire to connect the crossover module to each individual component in each door (tweet and mid).
And just for fun, I am going to repeat my other question too, lest it be forgotten: what kind of speaker wire should I be using? Knu offers a lot of different kinds, and its all greek to me.
If your going with the jbl 80.4 all you will need is this kit from KNU.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK84
As far as speaker wire goes, you don't have to use anything to fancy and remember thinner wire is easier to work with so don't get too low of a Gauge. The kit comes with 12 gauge and that is more than adequate.
Yea what he said 
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I'm going to stick with the set. It's just easier IMO and I'll pay an extra $30-$40 just so everything is delivered together nice and neatly.
As far as amps.. you're settled on the jbl?
Anything else out there worthy of the job?
(Thanks Bluetour btw)
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I think I am set on the JBL. I think JBL offers one of the best price/power combinations. Although there are certainly other amps out there, and other people on CEG will advocate for other brands, the JBL is my pick. If I could get a PPI Art Series 4-ch that was actually in good condition used, I might get one, unfortunately, the ones I've seen on eBay are usually pretty battered. In terms of other amps, you also might look at something with a little more power (I think JBL has another amp that offers more power w/4 channels) depending on your needs. I don't recall the specs on the Ultimate components you were looking at. Good luck with your install.
For other good amp brands, I believe there is a thread in this category regarding the best audio brands for each component of a complete audio system (i.e. sub, amp, components, etc). I think the title of the thread is "The Best of...(No Flames)". If you search for "no flames" you should find it. There are a lot of good amp recommendations there.
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do the art amps come in 4 channel? every one i see on ebay when i look are 2 channels.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
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Got a question bluetour.
Most of the amps I have seen have built in crossovers...
Which makes me think maybe I shouldnt buy the package deal because it comes with x-overs...
Specifications: * Midrange/mid-bass size: 6-1/2" * Power handling: 80 watts RMS/160 watts max * System impedance: 4 ohms * Frequency response: 50-25,000 Hz * System SPL: 92.5 dB 1W/1m * Mid-bass mounting depth: 2-5/8"
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First, to hmouta, I have seen an Art Series amp once on ebay as a 4 ch. I believe the model number was A404, and I think it was 50W x4 RMS.
96tourkid-I think it is generally agreed that the crossover included in the speaker package will give you tuning designed specifically for those speakers, which will sound better than using the amp's built-in crossover. I think the speakers you selected are a good choice as a package. Also, I would advise getting an amp with more power than the JBL P80.4. At 4 ohms, it generates 40W, and you probably want closer to the maximum RMS power handling for those speakers. I would say go for 60-80W RMS per channel. I mentioned brands in my previous post.
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Originally posted by Tj78492:
also cthomp: if I can afford it do you think it is worth it go with the vifa tweeter and peerless mids? I got an mtx amp that put out 2x80 @4ohms I hope to use.
It would be a great sounding component system, probably equivalent to the $300 and up famous brand stuff. I can't say what's better for your wallet, tho.
When assembling your first component set, it is nice to use "cheap" drivers and have the ability to upgrade/replace without much expense. Things may change (your car, your tastes, other components in your system, or other stuff) which might call for different drivers for the best sounding system for your tastes.
I've been through something like 7 or 8 different setups just in my CSVT. It's been fun experimenting, and my net costs (been selling the old stuff) is only a couple hundred at most. My Vifa Neo/Vifa PL component system that's in there now will likely be the last (not much more room to upgrade without incurring significant expenses and/or a much more complex install).
I just got my order from PE yesterday with the $.88 tweeters and Goldwood woofers for my first component set in my MSP.
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i just ordered 2 pcx ppi amps (480 and 2125). cant wait. great crossovers built-in and all. third 2125 will be used for soon to be added 8"midbass.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
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Colin,
Funny you mention those drivers, I am working on making a budget component set using those drivers with a 2nd order crossover for 60.00 (i hope) depending on the assembly time.
Are you interested in teh crossover design? Measurements look promising and the off-axis response should be quite good as well.
They appear to measure better than some 250.00 component sets i have seen but the real proof will be upon using them in the car.
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Dave back on board
Just had to reply did you not
Last edited by contour_phoenix_when; 04/02/04 02:57 PM.
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Hiya Dave. I'd sure like to take a look at the crossover design. You can e-mail it to me at colinmthompson22[remove]@hotmail.com, PM me, or just post it somewhere. 
Are you planning on cutting out the phase shields or leaving them in? I can't decide...
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Start with them on, the most likely remove them.
"If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit"
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One thing to keep in mind, and I only know this because I asked earlier in this thread, is that anything name brand won't be as good as any of the brands like what you see on PE. Although those will definitely be better than coaxials, and better than stock, they may not be better than the components you were looking before. If you are going to buy those, I would also advise finding them at a local audio store and listening to them. I almost bought some Alpines and went to Car Toys to have a listen and they sounded terrible. I would also think about maybe some JL TR650-CSi's at that price point.
Just my $.02.
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On a separate note, I have been trying to find an amp, and can't figure out what kind of power rating I should be looking for. The tweets are rated at 60WRMS, and the woofers at 80WRMS. I was originally going to go for the JBL P80.4 but at 40WRMS per channel, that seems a little weak. Is 40Wx4 sufficient for these speakers or should I look for more power? How much power is too much power for those speakers?
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Originally posted by bluetour:
One thing to keep in mind, and I only know this because I asked earlier in this thread, is that anything name brand won't be as good as any of the brands like what you see on PE.
Just my $.02.
wow... that has got to be the biggest generalized overstatement i've ever read! there's plenty o' crap at PE my friend. 
02 Mustang GT... Tuned by Nelsons. Low 12's, anyone? 
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Sorry, I guess I should have been more specific.
Follow your ears.
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Originally posted by bluetour:
On a separate note, I have been trying to find an amp, and can't figure out what kind of power rating I should be looking for. The tweets are rated at 60WRMS, and the woofers at 80WRMS. I was originally going to go for the JBL P80.4 but at 40WRMS per channel, that seems a little weak. Is 40Wx4 sufficient for these speakers or should I look for more power? How much power is too much power for those speakers?
Ummmm did you see my last post to you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3089451003&category=4950&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
As you can tell, I'm an old school PPI fan. Their old amps are nearly bulletproof, underrated in terms of power, and the SQ they produce is amongst the best ever. Are you set on buying a new amp or is used ok? The Art series A404 would be another excellent choice.
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Sorry, yes, I did see it, but I wasn't sure other people would, so I put it on this thread in the hopes it would be viewed more and potentially get more different (or concurrent) replies. I would like to get a PPI amp, but wasn't sure if that would be enough power, considering I've never had any actual experience with PPI, just what I've heard from other people. More importantly, is there some secret place (other than eBay) to pick up PPI amps? Since I've started looking for amps, I've seen one battered A404 up on eBay and none since. I'd really like to have an A404.
And no, as long as it works and I can connect it up, age is irrelevant.
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Originally posted by bluetour:
Sorry, yes, I did see it, but I wasn't sure other people would, so I put it on this thread in the hopes it would be viewed more and potentially get more different (or concurrent) replies. I would like to get a PPI amp, but wasn't sure if that would be enough power, considering I've never had any actual experience with PPI, just what I've heard from other people. More importantly, is there some secret place (other than eBay) to pick up PPI amps? Since I've started looking for amps, I've seen one battered A404 up on eBay and none since. I'd really like to have an A404.
And no, as long as it works and I can connect it up, age is irrelevant.
Bluetour,
The A404 would definately provide sufficient power as would the previous PPI amp I linked to. Their ratings are measured at 12 volts and normally you'll be sending them around 14 volts which will result in more power. The Art series amps are famous for their SQ and durability although the .2 series were alittle better than the the first models, hence the A300.2, 600.2 They're also known to get very hot but I've never seen one shut down from overheating. I live in Florida where the temp. is always in the 90's in the summertime and I've taken trips in my car for hours without the amps shutting down. I bought both my Art series amps on ebay about a year ago "I think" and I've had no problems with them. They will definately be switched over to my next vehicle when the time comes. I spent weeks looking for some in good shape and I know it can be difficult but you have to keep checking. Here's a perfect example.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3089507176&category=18796
Brand new!!! can you believe it. I'm sure some others who have had prior experience with these amps will chime in with their thoughts. I've been into car audio for many years and I've had half a dozen systems including amps from companies like soundstream "reference 500&700" Mmats, US amps, and PPI. I've definately been the most happy with the Art series from PPI and they are definately worth looking into. If you have some time, keep checking ebay until you find one in good shape. The ones I bought were in pretty good shape and I got them looking great with alittle work from my dremmel. I'll keep an eye out for you. BTW, are you set on getting one 4 channel amp or would you be open to the thought of two 2 channel amps. I ask because there are 2 really nice PPI art series amps for sale on ebay right now. They are an A300 and A200. Here's the links.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3088390516&category=18796
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3088389887&category=18796
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hey bluetour hows the install going, have you bought the equipment yet, I'm wondering becuase we'll probably end up with the same component system
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Well, I plugged it into my sig now, but I've ordered Soundstream PC2 passive crossovers, the Goldwood 7" drivers and Pyramid tweets linked earlier in this thread. They should be here tomorrow. I am holding off on getting the amp and rear deck sub until I have more time to do install stuff, I only have a day or so to do this, and I have no idea what I am doing, so I want to give myself ample time. I don't want to have to drive around with this project half done. I'll probably work on picking up a used PPI amp off eBay sometime in May and buy the rear deck sub early June so I can do the install after I graduate. I should have plenty of time over the summer to complete my install, as well as do a few other mods.
How are you coming along?
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I should add that I will be putting peel and seal in the two doors when I do the speakers. I figured it would be easiest to do everything, all at once, instead of having to open up the doors twice.
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What do you guys think of using crossovers such as this one with a 4 channel amp? I figure this would be much easier than creating your own crossovers. I have made passives before, but it is not something I care to do in a car audio environment. Tempe
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i don't know that i would trust that particular brand to keep the noise to a minimum. a similar x-over from AC would be fine though.
02 Mustang GT... Tuned by Nelsons. Low 12's, anyone?
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Originally posted by Tempe:
What do you guys think of using crossovers such as this one with a 4 channel amp? I figure this would be much easier than creating your own crossovers. I have made passives before, but it is not something I care to do in a car audio environment.
Tempe
Any particular reason why?
The only thing i can think of is power is cheap, but most active crossovers are not, especially when you will likely need an EQ in addition to the crossover. I think passives are a very viable option in cars.
"If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit"
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