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**Sorry, made an error on my above post, I meant to say how to get power to the AMP not the sub. I know the point of the amp is to get power to the sub by bridging the two rear channels, I am constantly mis-using "sub" instead of "amp", I don't know why... So to repeat my query, I want to know how to get power to the amp. If that requires connections at the battery posts or wherever, and what about fuses, etc.
I was going to tap into the factory wire inside the doors. There should be a +/- wire already in there for the factory speaker (I hope, of course, if there's no wire its a good explanation for why the factory speakers sound like such crap) and I was going to hook up the crossover to that. Then all it will take is a little more wire to connect the crossover module to each individual component in each door (tweet and mid).
And just for fun, I am going to repeat my other question too, lest it be forgotten: what kind of speaker wire should I be using? Knu offers a lot of different kinds, and its all greek to me.
1995 Contour GL 2.0L ATX- Teal Metallic+Grey Int.
Brown University, Class of 2008!
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Originally posted by bluetour:
**Sorry, made an error on my above post, I meant to say how to get power to the AMP not the sub. I know the point of the amp is to get power to the sub by bridging the two rear channels, I am constantly mis-using "sub" instead of "amp", I don't know why... So to repeat my query, I want to know how to get power to the amp. If that requires connections at the battery posts or wherever, and what about fuses, etc.
I was going to tap into the factory wire inside the doors. There should be a +/- wire already in there for the factory speaker (I hope, of course, if there's no wire its a good explanation for why the factory speakers sound like such crap) and I was going to hook up the crossover to that. Then all it will take is a little more wire to connect the crossover module to each individual component in each door (tweet and mid).
And just for fun, I am going to repeat my other question too, lest it be forgotten: what kind of speaker wire should I be using? Knu offers a lot of different kinds, and its all greek to me.
If your going with the jbl 80.4 all you will need is this kit from KNU.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK84
As far as speaker wire goes, you don't have to use anything to fancy and remember thinner wire is easier to work with so don't get too low of a Gauge. The kit comes with 12 gauge and that is more than adequate.
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Originally posted by Pienstars:
Originally posted by bluetour:
**Sorry, made an error on my above post, I meant to say how to get power to the AMP not the sub. I know the point of the amp is to get power to the sub by bridging the two rear channels, I am constantly mis-using "sub" instead of "amp", I don't know why... So to repeat my query, I want to know how to get power to the amp. If that requires connections at the battery posts or wherever, and what about fuses, etc.
I was going to tap into the factory wire inside the doors. There should be a +/- wire already in there for the factory speaker (I hope, of course, if there's no wire its a good explanation for why the factory speakers sound like such crap) and I was going to hook up the crossover to that. Then all it will take is a little more wire to connect the crossover module to each individual component in each door (tweet and mid).
And just for fun, I am going to repeat my other question too, lest it be forgotten: what kind of speaker wire should I be using? Knu offers a lot of different kinds, and its all greek to me.
If your going with the jbl 80.4 all you will need is this kit from KNU.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK84
As far as speaker wire goes, you don't have to use anything to fancy and remember thinner wire is easier to work with so don't get too low of a Gauge. The kit comes with 12 gauge and that is more than adequate.
Yea what he said 
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I'm going to stick with the set. It's just easier IMO and I'll pay an extra $30-$40 just so everything is delivered together nice and neatly.
As far as amps.. you're settled on the jbl?
Anything else out there worthy of the job?
(Thanks Bluetour btw)
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I think I am set on the JBL. I think JBL offers one of the best price/power combinations. Although there are certainly other amps out there, and other people on CEG will advocate for other brands, the JBL is my pick. If I could get a PPI Art Series 4-ch that was actually in good condition used, I might get one, unfortunately, the ones I've seen on eBay are usually pretty battered. In terms of other amps, you also might look at something with a little more power (I think JBL has another amp that offers more power w/4 channels) depending on your needs. I don't recall the specs on the Ultimate components you were looking at. Good luck with your install.
For other good amp brands, I believe there is a thread in this category regarding the best audio brands for each component of a complete audio system (i.e. sub, amp, components, etc). I think the title of the thread is "The Best of...(No Flames)". If you search for "no flames" you should find it. There are a lot of good amp recommendations there.
1995 Contour GL 2.0L ATX- Teal Metallic+Grey Int.
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do the art amps come in 4 channel? every one i see on ebay when i look are 2 channels.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
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Got a question bluetour.
Most of the amps I have seen have built in crossovers...
Which makes me think maybe I shouldnt buy the package deal because it comes with x-overs...
Specifications: * Midrange/mid-bass size: 6-1/2" * Power handling: 80 watts RMS/160 watts max * System impedance: 4 ohms * Frequency response: 50-25,000 Hz * System SPL: 92.5 dB 1W/1m * Mid-bass mounting depth: 2-5/8"
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First, to hmouta, I have seen an Art Series amp once on ebay as a 4 ch. I believe the model number was A404, and I think it was 50W x4 RMS.
96tourkid-I think it is generally agreed that the crossover included in the speaker package will give you tuning designed specifically for those speakers, which will sound better than using the amp's built-in crossover. I think the speakers you selected are a good choice as a package. Also, I would advise getting an amp with more power than the JBL P80.4. At 4 ohms, it generates 40W, and you probably want closer to the maximum RMS power handling for those speakers. I would say go for 60-80W RMS per channel. I mentioned brands in my previous post.
1995 Contour GL 2.0L ATX- Teal Metallic+Grey Int.
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Originally posted by Tj78492:
also cthomp: if I can afford it do you think it is worth it go with the vifa tweeter and peerless mids? I got an mtx amp that put out 2x80 @4ohms I hope to use.
It would be a great sounding component system, probably equivalent to the $300 and up famous brand stuff. I can't say what's better for your wallet, tho.
When assembling your first component set, it is nice to use "cheap" drivers and have the ability to upgrade/replace without much expense. Things may change (your car, your tastes, other components in your system, or other stuff) which might call for different drivers for the best sounding system for your tastes.
I've been through something like 7 or 8 different setups just in my CSVT. It's been fun experimenting, and my net costs (been selling the old stuff) is only a couple hundred at most. My Vifa Neo/Vifa PL component system that's in there now will likely be the last (not much more room to upgrade without incurring significant expenses and/or a much more complex install).
I just got my order from PE yesterday with the $.88 tweeters and Goldwood woofers for my first component set in my MSP.
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