Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Duratec 2.5L Rebuild PIctures

Well today I started working with rebuilding my 2.5L engine. Took atx (just finished rebuilding) off of engine stand and mounted engine onto stand. From what I could see at this point, front main seal was leaking badly, rear main was fine. exhaust manifold studs are badly corroded, I'll need to replace these. Vacuum hose bundle broke in half will have to replace. Crankcase breather cover hose broke in half. I'll have to replace that. Pictures coming soon. I'm starting with removing the intakes, power steering pump, oil pan, then timing cover.

If this one is anything like the one you did in the tranny forum...

I don't wanna see it! It'll get me worried about how my 95 V6 is looking... and what will "break in half"!

Ok here are some pictures.....

First picture is underside of block. Engine does look rather clean inside.


Another picture of front of block with oil pump, chains, etc removed. I did find that I had one chain that had a good amount of slack in it. Also, one of my plastic guides was broken. I also found that one of my oilers popped everytime I turned the crank.....I don't think things would have lasted much longer here!!!!



Oil Pump, timeing cover,etc.


Disassembled engine parts


Picture of heads with cams and lifters, etc. It is important to maintain order of lifters and rocker arms if being reused. I plan on reusing them since they all look good.

Another picture of heads


Picture of valves



Close up of block






Cylinders look very good. No ridges. I can even still see a crosshatch pattern! If measurments come out good, I will hone myself for new rings. Crank snout looks good with no groves. After measuring crank, I may not have it turned...Not sure yet.....

I'll have the machine shop check out the pistons, wrist pings and rods to let me know if they are in good shape.

I was not able to take the water pump pully off of the cam. I went to autozone and every puller they had did not seem to work. Can anyone refer me to a puller that I can use to pull this pulley off?

Thanks,
Bob

Machine shop???? a rarity in the US and least in my area.
Now is this a car buff or car nut? I thought I'd do this one day, however I forgot about "ORF"/CRS problem. Forget where everything went regardless how many notes I made or where I put the notes! And the other problem. "where did I lay that wrench I was just using"?

Have fun and GOOD LUCK!

Paul

If you notice on the pictures, I try to reinsert the bolts from where they came from. I did this on my atx rebuild and it worked fine. When I get ready to take the block to the machine shop (they are rather common around here) I'll have to make note of where they go.

I've rebuilt a few motors years ago so this is not totally new. Sensitive process comes on reassembly the bottom half....using silcone sealant, can't wait more than 20 minutes and replacing torque to yield bolts, checking endlplay, checking rod side clearance, etc. As I remove and clean parts, I place them under the car which keeps the garage in order. Had a few people come over and ask where are all the parts!!!

I'm glad I pulled the engine apart. With broken chain guide and tensioner almost out my engine would have fell apart soon!!!! costing me more money if it did so....

Well here are a few pictures of almost clean block. I'm taking it to the car wash tomorrow to get off the the few hard spots. I used Engine Brite remover, Green stuff, and gasket remover spray. I then used some fine steel wool to remove minor gasket remaining on the cylinder head and oil pan mount surface.

Looks good! I think there is a revised oil pan (although it may be for the 3l). I remember reading about a revised oil pan on these forums.

there is a better baffeled oil pan off the '02 Escape I believe.

Actually that interior of the engine is completey coated in varnish. The inside of your engine should be aluminum in color, not gold. You need to scrub everything you can or get the block dipped. I've received a few shortblocks that looked similar and had to clean them up. I'm assuming it was poor oil choice on their part causing it, so if you don't mind my asking, what brand/weight oil do you run? Also, what grade and brand of fuel as this may have a slight affect as well. It would seem most of the engines I got that looked like this came from the east coast.

Rick

I did clean the block, etc. and yes the true aluminum color did come through!!! This is out of a 95 contour and I have had the car about 2 years.......I use Castrol motor oil. The previous owner did not do to much in terms of maintenance with this car by the looks of it. When I pulled the timing cover one of the plastic timing guides was broke - I don't think the engine would have lasted much longer 190,000 miles. The price Ford wants for the replacement main bolts is outrageious. Where is a good place to get these main torque to yield bolts as well as bearings.....

Thanks,

I can get you main and rod bearings that are upgraded versus OEM- clevite rod bearings and federal mogul mains. I can get them standard size or .25 and .5 mm undersize. PM me for pricing. As far as the TTY bolts on the bottom end, there are 16 total and list should be around $72. You should be able to get them through Signature Lincoln Mercury for 25% less. Also, you need 12 rod bolts too.

Rick

Well, I am stillllll receiving parts. I purchased chrome moly rings at AutoZone. I then went to a local engine rebuilder for the main and rod bearings...autozone and oreilly could not help me. I went to measure ring end gap in bore and there was like a quarter inch overlap on the rings. I then knew autozone did not give me thr correct rings. I then called auto zone to check this out and they said those are the right rings and that probably someone changed out my cylinder head and that is why they don't fit.....hmmmm....it is reallllly hard to get good help these days. Well I called the local engine rebuilder and he could order them for me. He then asked what main and rod bearings I picked up yesterday. When I told him the numbers he said those are the wrong bearings...those are for a Mazda....It seems people get these engines mixed up. Mazda 2.5L is not the same as a Ford Duratec 2.5L So WEd I should have my rod/main thrust and rings in. I also should have my parts shipment in for that contain the new main bolts 16 torque to yied. as well as rod and head bolts. It seems awful cheap of ford to use torque to yield not to mention the waste of enviornmental scrape.

I took my alternator and started to a rewind shop for rebuilding...will save me a ton of money compared to auto zone price.

Heads are back from the machine shop. he did have to mill the heads. He replaced stem seals and there were no burnt valves. Did do a valve job also. Cost on heads for valve job and milling was 170.00

Crank had to be turned .10 under that cost me 80 dollars. I did take the pistons and rods and asked him to check them out to see if they needed replaced. He said they were in great shape and to just clean them with a wire brush. I honed the block myself today.

Injector rail was taken apart and cleaned - simple green is greattttt stuff!!!

Many of my parts was bought from Bill Jenkins. He does offer good prices. Everytime I go to my local Ford dealer and ask for a discount they get ticked and say ok will give you 15% off. Well I found then that their list price is then higher than what surrounding dealers are....I don't go there any more unless I have to - and I have bought quite a bit from him.......

I'll have pictures next weekend when I start to assemble.

There is one sending unit that I can't identify. It is on lower block, it screws into a sleeve and then the sleeve screws into the block. It looks like the old water temp sending units on old Chevys. I'm not sure what this is. I'll post a pitcure for help.

Also finally my shipment was sent out from BAT for suspension components, etc. It did take awhile for them to get everything together. Really don't mind too much he has some pretty good prices.

I've found that www.autopartsgiant has som good pricing and a selection for Contours. You may want to check them out if you are having a hard time finding parts.

Later,
Bob

When I cleaned my oil pump pickup tube I found dirt, gasket material,etc. stuck in the screen and tube body. If you change your pan. I recommend removing the tube - there is an oring seal you need to replace....and clean this out

Well I changed my mind here are some pictures.....





Piston still not finished yet with cleaning





This is the sensor I'm trying to identify!!!

The sensor is the oil pressure (switch) sending unit. It is mounted into, by the look of the picture, two reducing bushings. You might want to add it to your list of things to replace. It is cheap, its easier to replace now.

I thought my oil pressure sending unit was located above the a/c compressor. Are there two of them?

Thanks,
Bob

What side of the block was that sensor on? You are correct with the oil switches location by the a/c compressor. The picture is blurry, but it looks like the sending unit to me.

Ok, It is the oil sensor I'm talking about. The sleeve kinda threw me off.....

Thanks,
Bob

Well i've ordered a replacement flexplate and new torque converter 11". No I have to figure out how to press the rear seal in place. hammering it just won't due for this large seal. Any ideas??

I debating whether I should replace my rack and pinion assembly since I'm down this far. I've never had any problems with it......

Well I finally received my piston rings, bearings, etc. I just found out tonight that I am short 2 torqe to yield main bolts that I'm hoping my local Ford dealer has in town.

The rings I purchase are standard Hastings chrome moly rings. In checking the Haynes manual it says the end gap on top compression ring should be between .004 to .010

In reading the Hastings material that came with the rings they say that the MINIMUM ring gap is .004 per inch of bore. I figure that equates to about .014 for this engine. As you can see the Hastings Minimum exceeds specs in Haynes manual. When I measure my actual top compression ring end gap I get .019

The range according to .006 plus minus....I figure with the same range that would put me at a upper limit of say .020

Does this sound resonable?

Bob

Wish I had a scanner, According to the 96 Factory Service Manual:
Piston Ring Gap (Specification 82.4mm diameter gauge)*
Top Compression 0.100-0.250mm
(0.0039-0.0098)inch
Bottom Compression 0.27-0.42mm
(0.0106-0.0165 inch)
Oil Ring (Steel Rail) 0.15-0.65mm
(0.0059-0.0255 inch)
Compression (Top) 0.50mm Max
Service Limit (0.0196 inch)
Compression (Bottom) 0.65mm Max
Service Limit (0.0255 inch)
Oil Ring 0.90mm Max
Service Limit (0.0354 inch)
* footnote

Well I spoke with Hastings Manufacturing and they said with the 2.5L engine and the type of oil rings used, minimum end gap is .010 and I could go as high as .028 before I need to bore and use oversized pistons.


This engineer made my day!!

I have ordered the two missing main torque to yield bolts from the dealer today. They will be in tomorrow. I can then begin block assembly..pictures coming soon!!!!

Ok, here are some recent pics....I had a busy day today.....














The most nervous part that I had about this assemble so far was installing the timing chains. I did set crank at 11 o'clock position and checked that no 1 piston was at top dead center by viewing crank/rod from underneath and ensuring piston was a maximum travel - Once I was sure which cylinder was no one whiiiiich is as your facing the front of the engine and not the front of the car, but as facing the front of the engine it is the first cylinder up against the firewall closet to the front of the engine....sheesh....

Anyways, I then installed the timing chains with the yellow dots on the chain lined up with the camshaft gears and crank gear - also checked the arrows on back and they were aligned.....Jasper Tech bulletin on 96 - 99 2.5L Contours did make me nerous!!!! Once these were lined up I then installed tension guides, etc. Next was to insert lifters and rocker arms under cams. Once under cams I torqued down cam fasteners, leaving the thrust fastener for last. Once I did this for the left head, I then rotated the crank two times and then set the keyway at 3 o'clock and then did the same for the right hand side. I then popped the tensioners once I was sure everything was right. As a check I did follow the Jasper Tech bulletin and counted my links between cover, cams, crank, etc. and it matched exactly...took me a few minutes to figure out that it would be a number of revolutions before I could get the original yellow dots on the chains to match up again - been a long day......

With this 95, I did install the special Ford kit for installing modified tensioners to stop chain rattle upon startup because of lack of oil. I purchased the tensioners and backing plate for the tensioners from Bill and I purhased 96 chain, guies, tensioner arms, etc. These special tensioners allow you to use 96 components instead of 95. Purchased a good portion of the timing parts from www.autopartsgiant.com. All timing parts were from melling.

Tomorrow, I'll install timing cover, oil pan, intakes and injectors, power steering pump and a/c.....then I should be closes to dropping this back in with my rebuilt tranny......
Time to have a beer it has been a looong day!!!!

dude i wish i knew how to rebuild a motor... i'd be running a oval port 3l liter with the workz that is awesome work...

Great progress BT... Keep it up!

Great progress Bob!

Could you shoot me an email/PM with the part numbers for the timing guides? I have the beefier tensioners (changed when they changed the chain/sprocket thickness in 01) and I want to use new guides (96-00) as the ones I have are worn.

I've assembled the timing cover, fastened down oil pan, purchase new dispstick with indicator - I bumped into the old one and the handle snapped off! Installed new revised dMD damper. I purchased two new front wheel bearings and took the steering knuckles over to my local machine shop. He is pressing out the old and pressing in the new for a total price of 50 dollars. Tomorrow I'll be installing flywheel, torque converter and fastening up atx to engine. I still have to figure a way of installing the rear main seal without tearing it up...... This weekend I should have the tranny and motor back in the car.......

Well I installed a bit of loctite on the outer rim of my rear main seal to ensure it would not come loose. Picked up a new tc and installed it. connected atx to engine, tighned tc bolts and installed intermediate shaft and mount.


Dropped engine in car from above. Took about 2 hours by the time i had all the mounts fastened. Connected alternator wiring when engine was halfway in. Tomorrow I will begin to connect wiring, etc.

Took a week of vacation next week to finish all this up......

Bob

Tightened down motor mounts...I did notice when replacing my motor mounts that the rear mount was replace but when they replaced it the put the insert upside down!!! With the new motor mounts, I now have plenty of room between engine and firewall...Before it was murder.....
Connected atx shifter, wiring harness, various connectors....I am missing some metal clips that fit on the end of the sensor sockets.....I hope I can pick these up at the dealer.......

Heater hoses connected, AC connected..will have to pump down and charge later.

Making progess little slow though......

Well,

installed radiator and connected wiring, etc. atx lines installed. Waiting for final parts from Bill will arrive Monday. Have to return my lower control arm that I bought for warranty exchange, installed it and when I removed the dust cover from the ball joint, the rubber case was pierced at the factory.........

Strange thing happened on passenger side drive axle installed, I installed th drive axle into the intermediate shaft and it went in pretty smooth - I didn't have to pound on it or anything. When I turned away to get a socket and turned back the inner cv joint boot collapsed and was sucked completly in!!!!! Seems like there was a vacuum on it. I pulled it back out and it would not expand...I took it back to O'Reilly for a warranty exchange....they trying to figure out what happend on this deal...never seen anything like this before....lucky me I guess.

Cleaned the upper intake manifold, took off the throttle bottle and it the egr passenges were almost complely closed off. The back of the throttle plate had a very thick carbon buildup. Used Berrymans, simple green and my power sprayer to whip it into shape.

Now if I can only find my injector clips that I placed somehwere where I wouldn't lose them!!!

Almost ready to fire this beast up!

Bob

When installing the new ball joint on the driver side, the bolts that came with it striped when I torqued them to 65 foot lbs. They were rated 8.8 I had to purchase a small nut cracker and it took them off with no problem. I then purchased bolts rated 10.5 and I then could tc these down to 65 ft lbs. I had a devil of a time trying to install the knuckle without damaging the ball joint. I had to leave the ball joint loose on the control arm to do it. Once the ball joint was in the knuckle I then tighted it up.

Installed new sway bar bushings, new struts and new sway bar stabalizers. Drivers side wheel is on and everything is torqued down. Now on to the other side tomorrow.

I could never find my fuel injector clips, so I bought some high temp resistance tie wraps and tied down the fuel ineject harness to the fuel rail under the manifold. Harness has plastic rail under manifold that allowed me to use these wraps to keep everything seated.

It seems that I was given the wrong vacuum harness. I needed one for a 95 and I was given one for a 96. I am supposed to be able to pick this up tomorrow. I tried to start my car today even though I did not have the vacuum lines connected up. On the upper intake I plugged in the vacuum booster and pluged the other line. I tried to start the car and nothing. Solonoid did not click.....I thought my ebay starter that I purchased (was supposed to be rebuilt) was defective. Pulled the starter and replaced it with my original - nothing wrong with it and the teeth on the drive gear are not worn. I also checked the atx shift range sensor to see if that was off....I put in my old starter and tried to start and the solonoid barely cranked.....hmm.......I think I'll check the battery...battery voltage was at 10.9

Jumped the battery, disconnected ignition coil, took fuel pump fuse out. Tried to crank the car and it cranked! I then cranked the engine until the oil light went out. Then I inserted the fuse and reconnected the ignition module. Turned the key and the engine fired right up with all the vacuum lines discnnected, etc. I let it run for 15 secs and then shut down. So far all looks good.

Tonight, I connected up the remaining hoses. I just purchased my 1/2 x 13 heli coil insert for the drive shaft cam to pull the pulley in alignment with water pump. However, since it is close to being in alignment, I thought I'd take it for a test drive. Started the car and it idled smooth. I held my breath when shifting it to drive since I also rebuilt the atx in this project. Shifted to drive and it engaged....smoothly. Shifted to reverse and it engaged smoothly. Drove it around the block and it drove NICE. Trans winding up in gears sound strong and clean. Shift was very smooth. Took it out on the highway and drove it up to 55. Trans shifted fine. Front end is tight and seems not to need an alignment (replaced the struts, control arms, bushings, etc also) I will take it to be checked since I have a lifetime alignment warranty. Checked for leaks and found none. The only problem that I found was that my high cooling fan does not come on. Low speed works fine but high does not.....I did purchase a relay and replaced it but it did not make any difference. So the only items left on this project is pull down the water pump acessory pulley so it is in exact alignment with pump and repair high speed cooling fan..

This note closes out this project!

Regards,
Bob

Congrats Bob!

Nice job. Its nice to hear its running good.
And i have to give you props on the awesome write up.

Just an update....

The engine and atx now have 5000 miles and all is great. Drives like a new car...

Update.....


12,000 miles on car. Had to replace irmc vacuum diaphram. Developed a leak. Also had to replace rack and pinion! I should have replaced it when I had the engine out.....I didn't think it would EVER go out on me. Otherwise car drives like new.

Bob

I didn't notice anything in the previous, are you a mechanic or naturally you can do anything you touch?
I recently changed the front struts on my 98 with help from cousin at a transimision shop. they have an air tool that has the ability to switch to hammer only. I had no idea how to use but it call in handy for pushing the struts out of the casting and assisted the axle in and out of bearing and several other manuvers it made quick/painless!
But then they do that on a daily basis removing and installing transmissions.

Paul

Oh did you have to replace the HLA's? I guess that's what they are called hydraulic lash adjusters for the valves?
TNX

Sensitive process comes on reassembly the bottom half....using silcone sealant

You sure about the silicone? I rebuilt a motorcycle engine many years ago and the pro shop where I took the head to be ported and polished said to never use silicone. He said that when you put the two halves together some of it can ooze out between the joint. Then if that breaks loose in your engine it can eventually clog up oil ports and cause big problems.

I think I used some 3M yellow sealant or something that he suggested. He said if pieces of it came loose the oil would dissolve it. I didn't had any oil leaks with it for the 5 years I kept it after the rebuild.

Thank you vert much for that picture tour of the engine. I have nothing wrong with my engine, but after looking at all those pictures I want to take it apart. Hope you don't mind, but I just saved this entire thread to a pdf document to review later if I ever do have to take it apart. Again, thank you... =)

Update, 20k on engine and atx and all is running great!

Bob

This should be stickied.

I sent SVTPete an email about your suggestion.......never thought about it until you mention it.

Thanks,
Bob

There you go, and I agree.. it should be. I will leave it stickied until I hear otherwise from someone who says it shouldn't be (Pete, etc)


Ray

Thanks Ray!

Bob

Nice job on the rebuild. I just went through the same thing. Just I'm having problems getting the motor started after getting it all hooked back up. I have good fuel flow and good spark, it just doesn't want to start. I wonder if it is the fuel that sat in the tank for 6 months. It wasn't much, less than 1/8 of tank. Any advice would be will appreciated.
Thanks
John

is the pulse wheel correct? I know my 2.5 had two keyways on the pulse wheel...one marked 25 and the other marked 30. The 25=2.5 and the 30=3.0

I don't remember the pulse wheel having more than one keyway. Thanks I will check again

I'm pretty sure I have the timing set correct. The # 1 piston TDC and the camshaft "REF" marks are facing each other. Right?