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Tightened down motor mounts...I did notice when replacing my motor mounts that the rear mount was replace but when they replaced it the put the insert upside down!!! With the new motor mounts, I now have plenty of room between engine and firewall...Before it was murder.....
Connected atx shifter, wiring harness, various connectors....I am missing some metal clips that fit on the end of the sensor sockets.....I hope I can pick these up at the dealer.......
Heater hoses connected, AC connected..will have to pump down and charge later.
Making progess little slow though......
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Well,
installed radiator and connected wiring, etc. atx lines installed. Waiting for final parts from Bill will arrive Monday. Have to return my lower control arm that I bought for warranty exchange, installed it and when I removed the dust cover from the ball joint, the rubber case was pierced at the factory.........
Strange thing happened on passenger side drive axle installed, I installed th drive axle into the intermediate shaft and it went in pretty smooth - I didn't have to pound on it or anything. When I turned away to get a socket and turned back the inner cv joint boot collapsed and was sucked completly in!!!!! Seems like there was a vacuum on it. I pulled it back out and it would not expand...I took it back to O'Reilly for a warranty exchange....they trying to figure out what happend on this deal...never seen anything like this before....lucky me I guess.
Cleaned the upper intake manifold, took off the throttle bottle and it the egr passenges were almost complely closed off. The back of the throttle plate had a very thick carbon buildup. Used Berrymans, simple green and my power sprayer to whip it into shape.
Now if I can only find my injector clips that I placed somehwere where I wouldn't lose them!!!
Almost ready to fire this beast up!
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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When installing the new ball joint on the driver side, the bolts that came with it striped when I torqued them to 65 foot lbs. They were rated 8.8 I had to purchase a small nut cracker and it took them off with no problem. I then purchased bolts rated 10.5 and I then could tc these down to 65 ft lbs. I had a devil of a time trying to install the knuckle without damaging the ball joint. I had to leave the ball joint loose on the control arm to do it. Once the ball joint was in the knuckle I then tighted it up.
Installed new sway bar bushings, new struts and new sway bar stabalizers. Drivers side wheel is on and everything is torqued down. Now on to the other side tomorrow.
I could never find my fuel injector clips, so I bought some high temp resistance tie wraps and tied down the fuel ineject harness to the fuel rail under the manifold. Harness has plastic rail under manifold that allowed me to use these wraps to keep everything seated.
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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It seems that I was given the wrong vacuum harness. I needed one for a 95 and I was given one for a 96. I am supposed to be able to pick this up tomorrow. I tried to start my car today even though I did not have the vacuum lines connected up. On the upper intake I plugged in the vacuum booster and pluged the other line. I tried to start the car and nothing. Solonoid did not click.....I thought my ebay starter that I purchased (was supposed to be rebuilt) was defective. Pulled the starter and replaced it with my original - nothing wrong with it and the teeth on the drive gear are not worn. I also checked the atx shift range sensor to see if that was off....I put in my old starter and tried to start and the solonoid barely cranked.....hmm.......I think I'll check the battery...battery voltage was at 10.9
Jumped the battery, disconnected ignition coil, took fuel pump fuse out. Tried to crank the car and it cranked! I then cranked the engine until the oil light went out. Then I inserted the fuse and reconnected the ignition module. Turned the key and the engine fired right up with all the vacuum lines discnnected, etc. I let it run for 15 secs and then shut down. So far all looks good.
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Tonight, I connected up the remaining hoses. I just purchased my 1/2 x 13 heli coil insert for the drive shaft cam to pull the pulley in alignment with water pump. However, since it is close to being in alignment, I thought I'd take it for a test drive. Started the car and it idled smooth. I held my breath when shifting it to drive since I also rebuilt the atx in this project. Shifted to drive and it engaged....smoothly. Shifted to reverse and it engaged smoothly. Drove it around the block and it drove NICE. Trans winding up in gears sound strong and clean. Shift was very smooth. Took it out on the highway and drove it up to 55. Trans shifted fine. Front end is tight and seems not to need an alignment (replaced the struts, control arms, bushings, etc also) I will take it to be checked since I have a lifetime alignment warranty. Checked for leaks and found none. The only problem that I found was that my high cooling fan does not come on. Low speed works fine but high does not.....I did purchase a relay and replaced it but it did not make any difference. So the only items left on this project is pull down the water pump acessory pulley so it is in exact alignment with pump and repair high speed cooling fan..
This note closes out this project!
Regards,
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Nice job. Its nice to hear its running good. And i have to give you props on the awesome write up. 
98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's.
"I say what I mean and I do what i say"
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Just an update....
The engine and atx now have 5000 miles and all is great. Drives like a new car...
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Update.....
12,000 miles on car. Had to replace irmc vacuum diaphram. Developed a leak. Also had to replace rack and pinion! I should have replaced it when I had the engine out.....I didn't think it would EVER go out on me. Otherwise car drives like new.
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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I didn't notice anything in the previous, are you a mechanic or naturally you can do anything you touch? I recently changed the front struts on my 98 with help from cousin at a transimision shop. they have an air tool that has the ability to switch to hammer only. I had no idea how to use but it call in handy for pushing the struts out of the casting and assisted the axle in and out of bearing and several other manuvers it made quick/painless!  But then they do that on a daily basis removing and installing transmissions. Paul Oh did you have to replace the HLA's? I guess that's what they are called hydraulic lash adjusters for the valves? TNX
Paul
98 Mystique LS 2ea (07/97)(08/98)
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