Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Duratec 2.5L Rebuild PIctures

Well i've ordered a replacement flexplate and new torque converter 11". No I have to figure out how to press the rear seal in place. hammering it just won't due for this large seal. Any ideas??

I debating whether I should replace my rack and pinion assembly since I'm down this far. I've never had any problems with it......

Well I finally received my piston rings, bearings, etc. I just found out tonight that I am short 2 torqe to yield main bolts that I'm hoping my local Ford dealer has in town.

The rings I purchase are standard Hastings chrome moly rings. In checking the Haynes manual it says the end gap on top compression ring should be between .004 to .010

In reading the Hastings material that came with the rings they say that the MINIMUM ring gap is .004 per inch of bore. I figure that equates to about .014 for this engine. As you can see the Hastings Minimum exceeds specs in Haynes manual. When I measure my actual top compression ring end gap I get .019

The range according to .006 plus minus....I figure with the same range that would put me at a upper limit of say .020

Does this sound resonable?

Bob

Wish I had a scanner, According to the 96 Factory Service Manual:
Piston Ring Gap (Specification 82.4mm diameter gauge)*
Top Compression 0.100-0.250mm
(0.0039-0.0098)inch
Bottom Compression 0.27-0.42mm
(0.0106-0.0165 inch)
Oil Ring (Steel Rail) 0.15-0.65mm
(0.0059-0.0255 inch)
Compression (Top) 0.50mm Max
Service Limit (0.0196 inch)
Compression (Bottom) 0.65mm Max
Service Limit (0.0255 inch)
Oil Ring 0.90mm Max
Service Limit (0.0354 inch)
* footnote

Well I spoke with Hastings Manufacturing and they said with the 2.5L engine and the type of oil rings used, minimum end gap is .010 and I could go as high as .028 before I need to bore and use oversized pistons.


This engineer made my day!!

I have ordered the two missing main torque to yield bolts from the dealer today. They will be in tomorrow. I can then begin block assembly..pictures coming soon!!!!

Ok, here are some recent pics....I had a busy day today.....














The most nervous part that I had about this assemble so far was installing the timing chains. I did set crank at 11 o'clock position and checked that no 1 piston was at top dead center by viewing crank/rod from underneath and ensuring piston was a maximum travel - Once I was sure which cylinder was no one whiiiiich is as your facing the front of the engine and not the front of the car, but as facing the front of the engine it is the first cylinder up against the firewall closet to the front of the engine....sheesh....

Anyways, I then installed the timing chains with the yellow dots on the chain lined up with the camshaft gears and crank gear - also checked the arrows on back and they were aligned.....Jasper Tech bulletin on 96 - 99 2.5L Contours did make me nerous!!!! Once these were lined up I then installed tension guides, etc. Next was to insert lifters and rocker arms under cams. Once under cams I torqued down cam fasteners, leaving the thrust fastener for last. Once I did this for the left head, I then rotated the crank two times and then set the keyway at 3 o'clock and then did the same for the right hand side. I then popped the tensioners once I was sure everything was right. As a check I did follow the Jasper Tech bulletin and counted my links between cover, cams, crank, etc. and it matched exactly...took me a few minutes to figure out that it would be a number of revolutions before I could get the original yellow dots on the chains to match up again - been a long day......

With this 95, I did install the special Ford kit for installing modified tensioners to stop chain rattle upon startup because of lack of oil. I purchased the tensioners and backing plate for the tensioners from Bill and I purhased 96 chain, guies, tensioner arms, etc. These special tensioners allow you to use 96 components instead of 95. Purchased a good portion of the timing parts from www.autopartsgiant.com. All timing parts were from melling.

Tomorrow, I'll install timing cover, oil pan, intakes and injectors, power steering pump and a/c.....then I should be closes to dropping this back in with my rebuilt tranny......
Time to have a beer it has been a looong day!!!!

dude i wish i knew how to rebuild a motor... i'd be running a oval port 3l liter with the workz that is awesome work...

Great progress BT... Keep it up!

Great progress Bob!

Could you shoot me an email/PM with the part numbers for the timing guides? I have the beefier tensioners (changed when they changed the chain/sprocket thickness in 01) and I want to use new guides (96-00) as the ones I have are worn.

I've assembled the timing cover, fastened down oil pan, purchase new dispstick with indicator - I bumped into the old one and the handle snapped off! Installed new revised dMD damper. I purchased two new front wheel bearings and took the steering knuckles over to my local machine shop. He is pressing out the old and pressing in the new for a total price of 50 dollars. Tomorrow I'll be installing flywheel, torque converter and fastening up atx to engine. I still have to figure a way of installing the rear main seal without tearing it up...... This weekend I should have the tranny and motor back in the car.......

Well I installed a bit of loctite on the outer rim of my rear main seal to ensure it would not come loose. Picked up a new tc and installed it. connected atx to engine, tighned tc bolts and installed intermediate shaft and mount.


Dropped engine in car from above. Took about 2 hours by the time i had all the mounts fastened. Connected alternator wiring when engine was halfway in. Tomorrow I will begin to connect wiring, etc.

Took a week of vacation next week to finish all this up......

Bob