Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Duratec 2.5L Rebuild PIctures

Actually that interior of the engine is completey coated in varnish. The inside of your engine should be aluminum in color, not gold. You need to scrub everything you can or get the block dipped. I've received a few shortblocks that looked similar and had to clean them up. I'm assuming it was poor oil choice on their part causing it, so if you don't mind my asking, what brand/weight oil do you run? Also, what grade and brand of fuel as this may have a slight affect as well. It would seem most of the engines I got that looked like this came from the east coast.

Rick

I did clean the block, etc. and yes the true aluminum color did come through!!! This is out of a 95 contour and I have had the car about 2 years.......I use Castrol motor oil. The previous owner did not do to much in terms of maintenance with this car by the looks of it. When I pulled the timing cover one of the plastic timing guides was broke - I don't think the engine would have lasted much longer 190,000 miles. The price Ford wants for the replacement main bolts is outrageious. Where is a good place to get these main torque to yield bolts as well as bearings.....

Thanks,

I can get you main and rod bearings that are upgraded versus OEM- clevite rod bearings and federal mogul mains. I can get them standard size or .25 and .5 mm undersize. PM me for pricing. As far as the TTY bolts on the bottom end, there are 16 total and list should be around $72. You should be able to get them through Signature Lincoln Mercury for 25% less. Also, you need 12 rod bolts too.

Rick

Well, I am stillllll receiving parts. I purchased chrome moly rings at AutoZone. I then went to a local engine rebuilder for the main and rod bearings...autozone and oreilly could not help me. I went to measure ring end gap in bore and there was like a quarter inch overlap on the rings. I then knew autozone did not give me thr correct rings. I then called auto zone to check this out and they said those are the right rings and that probably someone changed out my cylinder head and that is why they don't fit.....hmmmm....it is reallllly hard to get good help these days. Well I called the local engine rebuilder and he could order them for me. He then asked what main and rod bearings I picked up yesterday. When I told him the numbers he said those are the wrong bearings...those are for a Mazda....It seems people get these engines mixed up. Mazda 2.5L is not the same as a Ford Duratec 2.5L So WEd I should have my rod/main thrust and rings in. I also should have my parts shipment in for that contain the new main bolts 16 torque to yied. as well as rod and head bolts. It seems awful cheap of ford to use torque to yield not to mention the waste of enviornmental scrape.

I took my alternator and started to a rewind shop for rebuilding...will save me a ton of money compared to auto zone price.

Heads are back from the machine shop. he did have to mill the heads. He replaced stem seals and there were no burnt valves. Did do a valve job also. Cost on heads for valve job and milling was 170.00

Crank had to be turned .10 under that cost me 80 dollars. I did take the pistons and rods and asked him to check them out to see if they needed replaced. He said they were in great shape and to just clean them with a wire brush. I honed the block myself today.

Injector rail was taken apart and cleaned - simple green is greattttt stuff!!!

Many of my parts was bought from Bill Jenkins. He does offer good prices. Everytime I go to my local Ford dealer and ask for a discount they get ticked and say ok will give you 15% off. Well I found then that their list price is then higher than what surrounding dealers are....I don't go there any more unless I have to - and I have bought quite a bit from him.......

I'll have pictures next weekend when I start to assemble.

There is one sending unit that I can't identify. It is on lower block, it screws into a sleeve and then the sleeve screws into the block. It looks like the old water temp sending units on old Chevys. I'm not sure what this is. I'll post a pitcure for help.

Also finally my shipment was sent out from BAT for suspension components, etc. It did take awhile for them to get everything together. Really don't mind too much he has some pretty good prices.

I've found that www.autopartsgiant has som good pricing and a selection for Contours. You may want to check them out if you are having a hard time finding parts.

Later,
Bob

When I cleaned my oil pump pickup tube I found dirt, gasket material,etc. stuck in the screen and tube body. If you change your pan. I recommend removing the tube - there is an oring seal you need to replace....and clean this out

Well I changed my mind here are some pictures.....





Piston still not finished yet with cleaning





This is the sensor I'm trying to identify!!!

The sensor is the oil pressure (switch) sending unit. It is mounted into, by the look of the picture, two reducing bushings. You might want to add it to your list of things to replace. It is cheap, its easier to replace now.

I thought my oil pressure sending unit was located above the a/c compressor. Are there two of them?

Thanks,
Bob

What side of the block was that sensor on? You are correct with the oil switches location by the a/c compressor. The picture is blurry, but it looks like the sending unit to me.

Ok, It is the oil sensor I'm talking about. The sleeve kinda threw me off.....

Thanks,
Bob