Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Duratec 2.5L Rebuild PIctures

Well today I started working with rebuilding my 2.5L engine. Took atx (just finished rebuilding) off of engine stand and mounted engine onto stand. From what I could see at this point, front main seal was leaking badly, rear main was fine. exhaust manifold studs are badly corroded, I'll need to replace these. Vacuum hose bundle broke in half will have to replace. Crankcase breather cover hose broke in half. I'll have to replace that. Pictures coming soon. I'm starting with removing the intakes, power steering pump, oil pan, then timing cover.

If this one is anything like the one you did in the tranny forum...

I don't wanna see it! It'll get me worried about how my 95 V6 is looking... and what will "break in half"!

Ok here are some pictures.....

First picture is underside of block. Engine does look rather clean inside.


Another picture of front of block with oil pump, chains, etc removed. I did find that I had one chain that had a good amount of slack in it. Also, one of my plastic guides was broken. I also found that one of my oilers popped everytime I turned the crank.....I don't think things would have lasted much longer here!!!!



Oil Pump, timeing cover,etc.


Disassembled engine parts


Picture of heads with cams and lifters, etc. It is important to maintain order of lifters and rocker arms if being reused. I plan on reusing them since they all look good.

Another picture of heads


Picture of valves



Close up of block






Cylinders look very good. No ridges. I can even still see a crosshatch pattern! If measurments come out good, I will hone myself for new rings. Crank snout looks good with no groves. After measuring crank, I may not have it turned...Not sure yet.....

I'll have the machine shop check out the pistons, wrist pings and rods to let me know if they are in good shape.

I was not able to take the water pump pully off of the cam. I went to autozone and every puller they had did not seem to work. Can anyone refer me to a puller that I can use to pull this pulley off?

Thanks,
Bob

Machine shop???? a rarity in the US and least in my area.
Now is this a car buff or car nut? I thought I'd do this one day, however I forgot about "ORF"/CRS problem. Forget where everything went regardless how many notes I made or where I put the notes! And the other problem. "where did I lay that wrench I was just using"?

Have fun and GOOD LUCK!

Paul

If you notice on the pictures, I try to reinsert the bolts from where they came from. I did this on my atx rebuild and it worked fine. When I get ready to take the block to the machine shop (they are rather common around here) I'll have to make note of where they go.

I've rebuilt a few motors years ago so this is not totally new. Sensitive process comes on reassembly the bottom half....using silcone sealant, can't wait more than 20 minutes and replacing torque to yield bolts, checking endlplay, checking rod side clearance, etc. As I remove and clean parts, I place them under the car which keeps the garage in order. Had a few people come over and ask where are all the parts!!!

I'm glad I pulled the engine apart. With broken chain guide and tensioner almost out my engine would have fell apart soon!!!! costing me more money if it did so....

Well here are a few pictures of almost clean block. I'm taking it to the car wash tomorrow to get off the the few hard spots. I used Engine Brite remover, Green stuff, and gasket remover spray. I then used some fine steel wool to remove minor gasket remaining on the cylinder head and oil pan mount surface.

Looks good! I think there is a revised oil pan (although it may be for the 3l). I remember reading about a revised oil pan on these forums.

there is a better baffeled oil pan off the '02 Escape I believe.