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Getting my forged internals installed (diamond pistons+pauter rods), and I needed to run some prices by you guys to see what sounds reasonable:

$350 - Precision Engine Rebuilder (www.precisionengine.com) will disassemble and reassemble my short block, press new forged pistons and rods together, install new bearings, rings for pistons, etc.

Then I asked about getting the engine rebalanced, and they said they can take that to someone else to get that done.

Does that sound about right?

I can't find ANYONE that even KNOWS what a duratec is, these were the only ones!!

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And who is going to file the rings for you? Balance alone for me is $175. Assembly they were asking $525.


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file rings? never heard of that!

it cost me like $300 to have my engine balaned, and thats because they charged me for matching up the rod caps, when the 3L came it was in a crate, i just tore into it, didnt know i had to keep thing matched up! ive learned alot since then.

also, why not assemble the engine yourself, its pretty easy if you got a ford cd and the right tools


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if you knew my history with modding things on my car, assembling the engine would be a guaranteed failure. . .trust me.

Filing rings?

They balance AFTER they assemble the short block, correct? So then, how do you drive it to another shop if the engine is "unbalanced"?

??

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no, you take them the rods, pistons, crank, piston rings, dampener, flywheel, bearings, the whole rotating assembly

they balance it like that so when the engine is built its already balanced



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Originally posted by ssmumich00:
1. Filing rings?

2. They balance AFTER they assemble the short block, correct? So then, how do you drive it to another shop if the engine is "unbalanced"?



1. The rings that come with the custom pistons require a file fit.

2. They would have to bring the "assembled" rotating assembly (including clutch, PP, and crank pulley) over to this other machine shop to have them balance it.


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by ssmumich00:
1. Filing rings?

2. They balance AFTER they assemble the short block, correct? So then, how do you drive it to another shop if the engine is "unbalanced"?



1. The rings that come with the custom pistons require a file fit.

2. They would have to bring the "assembled" rotating assembly (including clutch, PP, and crank pulley) over to this other machine shop to have them balance it.




Turns out they charge an additional $125 to get it balanced. So, it sounds like around $500 including tax to get the whole 2.5L rebuilt. I hope I can sell my CSVT pistons and rods (which I KNOW are in great shape since I've had a DMD on forever) to recoup the lost money. . .ugh.

Thanks guys. . .

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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by ssmumich00:
1. Filing rings?

2. They balance AFTER they assemble the short block, correct? So then, how do you drive it to another shop if the engine is "unbalanced"?



1. The rings that come with the custom pistons require a file fit.

2. They would have to bring the "assembled" rotating assembly (including clutch, PP, and crank pulley) over to this other machine shop to have them balance it.




Most of the balance work I've ever had done they use only the crank, one piston/rod assembly including rings. Unless it's an externally balanced flywheel or damper, that's all they need, not even the block...

Also, make sure the top ring is on the loose side when they're file fit on it, otherwise the heat and pressure from the "hair dryer" will cause the top ring to expand to much for it's own good. That equals more money spent...


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Originally posted by bnoon:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by ssmumich00:
1. Filing rings?

2. They balance AFTER they assemble the short block, correct? So then, how do you drive it to another shop if the engine is "unbalanced"?



1. The rings that come with the custom pistons require a file fit.

2. They would have to bring the "assembled" rotating assembly (including clutch, PP, and crank pulley) over to this other machine shop to have them balance it.




Most of the balance work I've ever had done they use only the crank, one piston/rod assembly including rings. Unless it's an externally balanced flywheel or damper, that's all they need, not even the block...

Also, make sure the top ring is on the loose side when they're file fit on it, otherwise the heat and pressure from the "hair dryer" will cause the top ring to expand to much for it's own good. That equals more money spent...






It has been many years since I had any balancing done, but matching the pistons for equal weight was the first part of the balancing project. Usually the rings were left alone since they felt that there would not be enough difference to worry about. But they did match the pistons and rods before actually assembling the pistons and rods together. The wrist pins were weighed with the pistons.


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Originally posted by Big Jim:
It has been many years since I had any balancing done, but matching the pistons for equal weight was the first part of the balancing project. Usually the rings were left alone since they felt that there would not be enough difference to worry about. But they did match the pistons and rods before actually assembling the pistons and rods together. The wrist pins were weighed with the pistons.




True, they did ask if the pistons and rods were matched to (within a fraction of a gram) each other, which mine were. All I had to do was bring one rod/piston assembly, they weighed it, mounted the bare crank in their machine, spun it, and the machine told them how much and were to take the weight off of (or put in mallory weight to) the crank.


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