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The bushing I had to use was to get the hole size through the rod end equal to the bolt size where it connects to the subframe.

Rick


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Originally posted by Buckshot77:
The bushing I had to use was to get the hole size through the rod end equal to the bolt size where it connects to the subframe.

Rick





Exactly. The 3/4" rod ends can come with 3/4" hole, 5/8" hole, or 1/2" hole. If we can use one of those sizes of hardware, we won't need any bushings. If we're forced to use other sizes of hardware, then we'll need the bushings.


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Is this something that a normal (street) contour would benefit from? Is it easy to install? Or should I just leave this one to the fast contours?


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Since I was using the stock cammed bolts I had to use a reducing bushing so I don't think we'll be able to get away from that, plus there's an issue with the thickness of the rod ends versus the thickness of the original bushing that's being replaced that also comes into play to make the bushing a good idea.

Come crawl under my car this weekend Brad ! LOL it's only got 6" of snow around it.

Rick


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Originally posted by Buckshot77:
Since I was using the stock cammed bolts I had to use a reducing bushing so I don't think we'll be able to get away from that, plus there's an issue with the thickness of the rod ends versus the thickness of the original bushing that's being replaced that also comes into play to make the bushing a good idea.

Come crawl under my car this weekend Brad ! LOL it's only got 6" of snow around it.

Rick




Yeah, we'll need a spacer for the width (as shown in the pic above), but I'll still try to order the rod ends so that we wouldn't need a bushing since there's no cost difference. Otherwise the price goes up for the aluminum bushing stock.

I'll be over... What time are you going to be out there tomorrow??? I need to clean up those TPI parts...


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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Is this something that a normal (street) contour would benefit from? Is it easy to install? Or should I just leave this one to the fast contours?




Pretty much for only autocross cars and above. A street tour shouldn't even be worried about adjusting the rear arms... Unless you view offramps as the last corner of the Indy 500, then a street car owner may want to buy some.

Fairly easy to install, but you would need a 4 wheel alignment after installation to make sure you didn't add 10 degrees of camber to the rear tires.


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Originally posted by bnoon:
you view offramps as the last corner of the Indy 500, then a street car owner may want to buy some.




Hehe, I gotta have some fun sometime. Most of my exits all involve me turning toward the right,, guess how my tires' wear pattern looks. If these get done soon enough and prices are within my small budget, I might would be in for this,, I realize my car won't be fast (or even not slow) w/o a buncha money put into it, but it sure can handle good.


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by bnoon:
There is no need for a bushing if the hardware size can match the rod end hole size. There are 3 sizes available in the 3/4" rod ends, so we'll see. It will still be a full metal on metal connection, either way.



In layman's terms that means NO DEFLECTION! Just accurate and consistent movement and stable suspension geometry.




It also means extra care to lubrication. Not a bad thing, necessarily, but it certainly is not as mindless as driving an OEM "appliance."


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Are they going to be the greaseable heim joints? I am interested either way.....


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Ooh, I like this idea.

How are you planning on connecting the sway bar? I have heim joints right now and would like to keep them.


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