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Chris G. ~ 98 Mystique LS ATX
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What kind of Aluminum are you using? T6061 or 7075..Just curious that's all.


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Originally posted by Antiramie:
http://www.spmotorsports.com/ATCcontour_susp_controlarms.html






I hope the ones that are made are stronger than the spmotorsport ones.

BUT, I'd be in, I need to get my rear taken care of this summer, box in the aussie bar, add these on. . .

$250 + yellow powdercoating for me!!

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Originally posted by Antiramie:
http://www.spmotorsports.com/ATCcontour_susp_controlarms.html





Very bad fit and finish from the SHOShop set.

I know a few people who could not even get them to fit and of course SHOShop acting as usual did not even help or refund the product.


I'd buy from Brad & Rick over SHOShop any day of the week!


Besides Aluminum is much lighter then steel and in unsprung weight that means a lot to every aspect of performance.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by Antiramie:
http://www.spmotorsports.com/ATCcontour_susp_controlarms.html






Rubber bushings and made of steel... Two ways mine are better. Rubber bushings cost less than 1/4 what the rod ends do for a third reason. Tell me who's is a better value?

Originally posted by Thinkmoto:
What kind of Aluminum are you using? T6061 or 7075..Just curious that's all.




The supplier hasn't actually told me that one yet. They only gave me the specs I asked for. I'm not into metalergy (SP?), so a number wouldn't mean much to me... EDIT: Just got that info, it's 6061-T6511.

Originally posted by RogerB:
What, you mean you don't need 30 confirmed buyers with cash up front? What are you, a real entrepreneur?




Nope, not as long as the customer understands I'll be doing these on a "per order" basis which makes it a week or so minimum before I can make them and ship them out. That way, I can keep a minimum of "extras" on hand so that I don't get burned if sales are minimal.

I'll have pics of my trailing arms for the T.A., which will be made the exact same way as the control arms for the tours/coogs. Just FYI, the strength of this aluminum used in a trailing arm is good for up to .6 second 60 foot times. Don't I wish!!!

EDIT: I got a pic of what the actual rods ends, aluminum bars, rubber rod end boots, and spacers will look like from someone who had done it before.


Last edited by bnoon; 01/28/04 03:10 PM.

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Thanks for the sticky suspension moderators!!!


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OK, this might be a silly question...

Is there a bushing, or is this a solid metal on metal connection (Is that the definition of "rod end")? If there's a bushing, is it poly or rubber?


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The bushing most likely will be a bronze piece so it's a full metal connection if these are done the same way I made mine. If my car weren't covered in snow right now I'd try to snap a pic of my setup.

Rick


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There is no need for a bushing if the hardware size can match the rod end hole size. There are 3 sizes available in the 3/4" rod ends, so we'll see. It will still be a full metal on metal connection, either way.


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Originally posted by bnoon:
There is no need for a bushing if the hardware size can match the rod end hole size. There are 3 sizes available in the 3/4" rod ends, so we'll see. It will still be a full metal on metal connection, either way.



In layman's terms that means NO DEFLECTION! Just accurate and consistent movement and stable suspension geometry.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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