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#848930 01/21/04 05:20 AM
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is there sufficient room to tap the lower manifold and place fogger nozzles in the secondary ports right next to the feul injectors? or will there be issues with the feul and nitrous lines? what about on the side of the lower that faces the valve cover? the reason i ask is because i have never seen how big the nozzles actually are.


2000 csvt #1553 Black/Tan
#848931 01/21/04 06:08 AM
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Yes it is possible.


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#848932 01/21/04 03:04 PM
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it probably wont be easy though, i will be doing it this spring.

i got a spare LIM to practice with


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#848933 01/21/04 03:46 PM
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hmmm... I like the idea of being able to hide everything under the upper. I have seen most setups that place it in plain site. i would hate to detract from the beauty that is the duratec engine bay


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#848934 01/22/04 03:04 PM
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I don't think that your going to be able to 'hide' everything under the UIM with a DP kit. I don't believe there is enough room under the UIM to put the nozzles and all the fuel/n2o lines...

Originally posted by zm830101:
hmmm... I like the idea of being able to hide everything under the upper. I have seen most setups that place it in plain site. i would hate to detract from the beauty that is the duratec engine bay




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#848935 01/23/04 11:09 PM
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i know that you probablly can't hide all of it. but you can hide most of it. the sloenoids could probablly snuggle up under the throttle body somewheres, and then all you have are the supply lines which could pobably go covert under the intake piping. I think that there is plenty of room; there is quite a bit of space under the injectors, you just have to get creative.


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#848936 01/23/04 11:11 PM
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come to think of it, does anybody know the measurements (i.e. height, size of threading, width, etc) of the fogger nozzles?


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#848937 01/24/04 12:16 AM
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I have tried and have been unsucessful.... there isn't enough room between the 2 halves of the LIM... If you had a 3L UIM you may have enough room... do the front runners between, and the back runners from behind.... then you can hide the solenoids between the valve cover and firewall....


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There is enough room if you change your way of thinking about the injector nozzles.

I already have a sketch of this....but I'll go ahead and let it out of the bag.

Suppose you used one Nitrous solenoid, but then you ran it into one larger tube made of...say copper or aluminum and ran it down the center of the LIM or close to it. Then you used equal length pieces of small diameter tubing and ran them from the large central tube to each intake port. Then you calculate the diameter of the jet you would like for each cylinder. (If you wanted a 75 shot then you would want about 12 HP shot per cylinder)
Once you know the size of the hole you get some steel wire that is the same size (guitar strings are steel and have many sizes). Stick it in the end of the small tube a good inch or so. At the end of the tubing you just hammer it flat with the steel wire still inside. Then you just use a pair of pliers to pull the wire out. Now you have a jet in the end of the tube that is the correct size. Then you file the edges so the diameter stays the same as the tubing was before hammering so that you can fit it into the hole you will drill into six of the ports in the LIM. Use some clips or zip ties to secure the main tube to the fuel rail. Bend the small tubes so that they enter the intake port through the hole just enough and at the right angle to inject the nitrous the best way.
Seal with silicon. Of COURSE you must have drilled the hole to be very close to the same size as the nitrous tubing.

Now, you have a direct port injected nitrous feed system tunable for any power amount and VERY CHEAPLY I might add!

You need to decide on a wet or dry system. For direct port I would recommend a wet system. This means you would tap a line from the fuel pressure test port on the regulator into a fuel solenoid.
Make another injection tree the same way in the correct ratio to add the right amount of fuel for the given amount of nitrous. You can search nitrous forums for the correct jet diameters of both fuel and nitrous.

Now the hard part. Activation.
The basic kit can be a NX wet kit that comes with various nitrous and fuel jets. You could use the jets that come with it as a safeguard, but don't use the nozzle of course. Just select jets form the next higher level of "shot" above what you want to run. This is just a backup in case you have a failure so you don't dump too much nitrous. Assume a 100 shot for the purposes of these jets since we are talking about a 75 shot. Pipe the fuel line with these 'primary jets' into a fittings that lead to the main tubes you just designed on each of your new multi-port injection setups. (don't make the lead in too long)
Now you get direct port injected nitrous that is hidden, cost effective and capable of being tuned exactly to your needs just by changing the diameter of the hole in your tubes.

Don't forget all the goodies like a fuel pressure cut-off switch, a bottle blanket and if you can afford it a control unit that allows you to smooth the onset of nitrous so you don't break anything in your drivetrain.


(some thoughts *The extra jetting isn't needed but just an afterthought. *At a minimum you need to make sure the system seals well. *I think copper works well with fuel, not sure about nitrous. It would probably be just fine. Copper would be the best metal for cost and workability as you can solder the smaller tubes onto the larger central tube and it is malleable but strong.
* start off small until the system proves to work so you don't damage the motor. It will be easy to change out tubes on an existing system then replace a motor.)

***Get it measured with a wideband and check it on the dyno!!!!


Have fun.

warmonger


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Warmonger, you da man!!!


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