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Joined: May 2003
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by XKontour98:
Originally posted by Ed98.5SVT:
That is where the problem exists. I got mine from a group buy with Performance Fords; but it was a struggle and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
As said above, a modified stock y is the way to go.
But, I am very happy with my performance and sound gains.
Yeah there were a ton of problems for a lot of people in the cat back group buy where i got mine from. I would rather not go through performance fords!
Ok So now I am thinking about having my y-pipe modified?
What exactly does that consist of? If I go into the local exhaust shop and tell them "could you modify my y-pipe?" are they going to know what I mean?
I also have a SE not a SVT y-pipe, is that going to make a difference or are they the same?
And finally, I think my cat is going so that is why I am looking into the whole y-pipe in the first place, so would i have them cut it out or are they going to want me to replace it?
thanks for all the help!
You can go HERE to the mods/parts section on the main page for a how-to on optimizing your stock y-pipe. With the cat you have a few options. You could just remove it and have a straight pipe put in its place but its not legal and could cause you issues if you have emissions testing in your state. Also, a lot of muffler shops in different states won't even touch it for that very reason. Or you could just buy a high flow cat to replace it with, that's the route I would go. I beleive the y-pipes are the same on all duratecs but I'm not positive on that ss hopefully someone else will "pipe" up and clarify that as I'm too lazy to look it up at the moment.
Formerly known as Sneaku
I MISS MY BABY!!!
'00 Blk CSVT #1087/2150 built 12/23/99
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Ok So now I am thinking about having my y-pipe modified?
What exactly does that consist of?
Where the two pipes come together you will notice that the two are crushed to 1/2 their size. You want them to cut out the center walls so the pipes merge into a single pipe rather than get squashed into the flange. This will likely consist of just replacing the crushed sections with some welded pipe. Some shops won't touch it because it is located in front of the cat, but you can shop around.
If I go into the local exhaust shop and tell them "could you modify my y-pipe?" are they going to know what I mean?
Nope, see above.
I also have a SE not a SVT y-pipe, is that going to make a difference or are they the same?
Same. The flange may be different, but the pipes are the same.
And finally, I think my cat is going so that is why I am looking into the whole y-pipe in the first place, so would i have them cut it out or are they going to want me to replace it?
They won't let you leave the shop without a cat. You don't even want to ask them to do that. A performance shop will likely do all this work for you - including a high-flow cat.
Now keep in mind there are THREE cats in our exhaust systems. Yes, three (3). The ones that typically give us trouble are the two in the exhaust manifolds. They are also known as pre-cats. They suck, we all hate them. If these are your problem, Buckshotmotorsports.com has gutted pre-cats available for exchange for about $80 a pair last I checked.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Originally posted by JonnySVT:
A little advice before hand, make sure you have PB Blaster on hand for the y pipe bolts. 
CAN I HEAR AN AMEN?!! 
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,508
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
I also have a SE not a SVT y-pipe, is that going to make a difference or are they the same?
Same. The flange may be different, but the pipes are the same.
Yep, SVT Y has a 2.25" flange wheras an non SVT Y has a 2" flange.
1998.5 E1 SVT Contour #5482/6535
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Originally posted by JonnySVT:
A little advice before hand, make sure you have PB Blaster on hand for the y pipe bolts.
CAN I HEAR AN AMEN?!!
AMEN!! I learned the hard way.
Actually, I did have some good stuff with me. Only problem was that mine had been taken on and off some many times in the past year that the threads just gave out the last time it went back on. Left me with a broken bolt on the bank 1 flange that connects the y-pipe to the manifold.
Since I am now in the market for a Y myself, I knew that going with a modded stock Y is best. Mainly because of the added protection that the heatsheilds offer. So what I did was printed out the how-to that Warmonger did (Gosh! I think it was "war" that did it??) and took it around to some of the local exhaust shops. I noted that every single one of them just looked at me like I asked them to bend over.  
So!! I am going to buy a y-pipe and some heat wrap. I'm going that route, just because I can't weld (never could, probably never will) and I not want anyone goofing with my car.
Just some added thoughts.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Joined: Sep 2000
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There is nothing better (or cheaper even) then a modified stock Y-pipe. (when using a Y-pipe  )
Remove the crush flange piping.
Actually the best idea would be to skip replacing the flange at the end of the Y-pipe and replace all the piping straight back to the cat-back and flange it there.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Redneck Troll
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Redneck Troll
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Originally posted by Ed98.5SVT:
Originally posted by TourDeForce:
I also have a SE not a SVT y-pipe, is that going to make a difference or are they the same?
Same. The flange may be different, but the pipes are the same.
Yep, SVT Y has a 2.25" flange wheras an non SVT Y has a 2" flange.
Incorrect. The Y-pipes are exactly the same. The piping coming out of the cat is 2.25" vs. 2", but has nothing to do with the Y-pipe size or shape between the two models. The only difference for Y-pipes is the year they were put on the cars.
Early cars have a two bolt rear flange going to the cat which uses spring nuts and a ball/cup type of flex connection. The later years use a 3 bolt cat flange, normal nuts, and a stainless mesh flex joint instead of the spring nuts.
3 bolt vs. two bolt, that's it, no matter which V6 Contour or Cougar it comes from.
Available through BNMotorsports Dot Com. 
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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My 2000 SVT had a 2.5" flange on the stock Y-pipe.
There is NO REAL SET rhyme or reason to the multiple different Y-pipes other than the SVT's "on average" have a larger flange then Non-SVT's because the piping before and after the cat was 2.25" not 2".
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Redneck Troll
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
My 2000 SVT had a 2.5" flange on the stock Y-pipe.
There is NO REAL SET rhyme or reason to the multiple different Y-pipes other than the SVT's "on average" have a larger flange then Non-SVT's because the piping before and after the cat was 2.25" not 2".
All two bolt y-pipes I've optimized have had 2.5" flanges on them. All three bolt Y-pipes I've optimized have had 2.5" flanges on them. Of the two bolt ones I've done, one was an SE, one was a Cougar. The three bolt ones I've done were from SVTs. Perhaps the flex joint three bolt ones are a bit different on an SE only. Until I see one, I won't know for sure.
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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I just happen to have mine lying in my shed. I was gonna optimize it & installed an old SVT Y until I do the work. I'll check the ol' SE three bolt piping & post here when I get the chance.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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